Need Idiot's Guide to Cassette Installation
I have a new wheel with a Shimano 9-10 hub. I have a new SRAM 9 speed cassette and lockring in the box all held in place with a plastic keeper sleeve.
I've read the Parktool guide to cassette installation and it seems dead easy: Slide new cassette onto cassette body of new wheel, pushing the plastic keeper out as the cassette slides on to make sure everything goes on in the order it was assembled at the factory. Install lock ring to torque spec. I know I should grease the threads of the lockring - any reason I shouldn't lightly grease the inside of the cassette body and the splines on the free hub? Then I imagine I simply put the new wheel on the bike and make sure the high and low stops on the derailleur are properly set - then adjust the shifting as normal. Am I missing anything? Is there any chance that I will need anything that is not included with the cassette in the box, like spacers or such? It just seems so simple to me, I know how to set high and low stops and adjust indexing, but I don't want the derailleur to go into the spokes first time I crank it up. My current wheel has the exact same cassette on it - but it is a Mavic Aksium wheel. The new one is a Reynolds hub. Thanks! |
Greasing the inside and the freehub is a very good way to avoid rust issues. I strongly recomend it.
As long as you have the spline tool for tightening up the lock ring then the rest is just as you say above. |
Originally Posted by BCRider
(Post 6418580)
Greasing the inside and the freehub is a very good way to avoid rust issues. I strongly recomend it.
As long as you have the spline tool for tightening up the lock ring then the rest is just as you say above. Yea, I've got the lockring tool. Thanks. Might do it tonight, but am also awaiting new tires and tubes and there's still snow on the ground so I guess there's no rush! |
First time I did this, I couldn't get the cogs and spacers to just come off the plastic carrier and go smoothly on the hub like it shows on the video. I ended up doing them one-by-one. But as long as you keep the order and orientation correct of all the cogs and spacers, you can't go wrong.
- Mark |
It's very hard to mess up, as the cogs only go on one way. Just check things carefully and make sure there's no play in anything when you're done.
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If after you tighten down the lockring there is a little play (left/right) in the cassette, you will need to add this spacer:
http://www.aspirevelotech.com/ebayim...paceronhub.jpg Bob |
Originally Posted by Bobby Lex
(Post 6419592)
If after you tighten down the lockring there is a little play (left/right) in the cassette, you will need to add this spacer:
http://www.aspirevelotech.com/ebayim...paceronhub.jpg Bob I think one of the things you learn as you work on stuff whether it's cars, bikes, home improvements, etc. is what sort of small problems are really normal and easy to solve.... as opposed to the instructions that usually indicate everything should go smoothly and things should fit perfectly. |
I think you've got it all figured out. If you need to remove the cassette at some point you'll need a chainwhip to keep the hub from turning when you undo the lockring. Other than that it's pretty simple.
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The hub splines are asymetrical so the the cogs will only go on one way, no chance for a SNAFU except lining up the smallest cog.
Use plenty of torque, the cassette needs to be tight, no looseness or movement between cogs. There is no need for grease on the outside of the freehub or inside of the cassette, it will just collect dust. Al |
Not to long ago, I got a new cassette with the intention of mixing cogs with my current cassette to make a "custom".
On my old spacers, a bit of material had "extruded" into the 3 rivet holes in the cogs, leaving a "raised" section on the spacer by the hole. I didn't notice it initially, and I didn't have enough room for the lockring to seat properly. Most of your cogs will be attached to each other by rivets/screws etc., so you'll only have a "minimum" of loose cogs anyway. I didn't realize the plastic holder was an installation tool?:) |
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
(Post 6422224)
.. I didn't realize the plastic holder was an installation tool?:)
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I'd start by throwing that plastic thing away, you don't need it.
Al |
Since you are replacing with an identical cassette, I would think that if you do need a spacer (unlikely) there will already be one there. Just keep track of what comes off, and make sure the same stuff goes on (only newer). You can reuse any spacers, especially since spacers are not subjected to friction, they don't wear out.
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Originally Posted by Little Darwin
(Post 6422382)
Since you are replacing with an identical cassette, I would think that if you do need a spacer (unlikely) there will already be one there. Just keep track of what comes off, and make sure the same stuff goes on (only newer). You can reuse any spacers, especially since spacers are not subjected to friction, they don't wear out.
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Only spacer you're gonna need on a 9-speed is if the wheel is a Mavic. There is only one way to put on a cassette since the splines are different. 9 speed SRAM has the cogs bolted together. Forget the grease, cassette doesn't move on the spline.
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Originally Posted by capwater
(Post 6423552)
Only spacer you're gonna need on a 9-speed is if the wheel is a Mavic. There is only one way to put on a cassette since the splines are different. 9 speed SRAM has the cogs bolted together. Forget the grease, cassette doesn't move on the spline.
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Originally Posted by capwater
(Post 6423552)
Only spacer you're gonna need on a 9-speed is if the wheel is a Mavic. There is only one way to put on a cassette since the splines are different. 9 speed SRAM has the cogs bolted together. Forget the grease, cassette doesn't move on the spline.
Why is Mavic like that? I always thought the various freehub bodies (in this case Shimano 9/10) were generic, regardless of the hub they were fitted on. Why and how is Mavic different? For what it's worth, my old wheel is Mavic (Aksium, a nice wheel by the way), but since the cassette is staying on there, it isn't an issue for me. Thanks again to everyone for the comments. |
Originally Posted by Camilo
(Post 6431689)
This is one of the reasons I asked my question - I had this vague memory of reading somewhere that some hubs required a special spacer or such. My new wheel/hub is Reynolds, so that shouldn't be an issue.
Why is Mavic like that? I always thought the various freehub bodies (in this case Shimano 9/10) were generic, regardless of the hub they were fitted on. Why and how is Mavic different? For what it's worth, my old wheel is Mavic (Aksium, a nice wheel by the way), but since the cassette is staying on there, it isn't an issue for me. Thanks again to everyone for the comments. |
I put the cassette on the free hub this evening, but the outermost sprocket doesn't seem to seat in the splines.
This is a SRAM 970 9 speed. The cassette is all one piece except for the smallest (outermost) sprocket and the lock ring. The main body of the cassette slid on easily, and seemed to go onto the freehub as far as possible. But when I went to put the smallest sprocket on, it will just BARELY seat on the freehub splines, I mean barely - if I pushed down on it, it would seat enough to keep from spinning freely, but let up that pressure at all and it was if it didn't seat at all. It is properly aligned with the splines. I put the lockring on and just hand tightened it. That seemed to seat that cog more firmly, preventing it from spinning freely, but I'm not sure if it's really seated well. I did not torque it down, preferring to ask this esteemed forum if this seems normal. If so, I'll take the torque wrench and tighten the lockring. Thanks again! |
Originally Posted by Camilo
(Post 6446428)
I put the cassette on the free hub this evening, but the outermost sprocket doesn't seem to seat in the splines.
This is a SRAM 970 9 speed. The cassette is all one piece except for the smallest (outermost) sprocket and the lock ring. The main body of the cassette slid on easily, and seemed to go onto the freehub as far as possible. But when I went to put the smallest sprocket on, it will just BARELY seat on the freehub splines, I mean barely - if I pushed down on it, it would seat enough to keep from spinning freely, but let up that pressure at all and it was if it didn't seat at all. It is properly aligned with the splines. I put the lockring on and just hand tightened it. That seemed to seat that cog more firmly, preventing it from spinning freely, but I'm not sure if it's really seated well. I did not torque it down, preferring to ask this esteemed forum if this seems normal. If so, I'll take the torque wrench and tighten the lockring. Thanks again! |
Are you installing an 11T cog?
Possibly the Free Hun is NOT a Compact stle and therefore won't work with 11T. http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec |
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
(Post 6457280)
Are you installing an 11T cog?
Possibly the Free Hun is NOT a Compact stle and therefore won't work with 11T. http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec Thanks to everyone for the advice. |
Were you able to fit the last cog and lockring properly? I am having same problem. I have a brand new PG950, 9 speed casseette and the lockring seems way too small for the 12T cog threads.
The outer circumference of the threads on the lockring do not even extend all the way to the threads on inner circumference of the 12T cog. What gives? I think I may have received mis-assembled cassette. It's hard to believe they make mistakes like that. |
Originally Posted by crypticlineage
(Post 6497964)
What gives? I think I may have received mis-assembled cassette. It's hard to believe they make mistakes like that.
-Kurt |
Cuda, I bought this cassette on eBay. It was brand new in a sealed original package. It doesn't seem like they've mixed parts up. If it helps any, the SRAM lock ring is black in color. Is that how its supposed to be?
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