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  1. #1
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    Need Idiot's Guide to Cassette Installation

    I have a new wheel with a Shimano 9-10 hub. I have a new SRAM 9 speed cassette and lockring in the box all held in place with a plastic keeper sleeve.

    I've read the Parktool guide to cassette installation and it seems dead easy:

    Slide new cassette onto cassette body of new wheel, pushing the plastic keeper out as the cassette slides on to make sure everything goes on in the order it was assembled at the factory.

    Install lock ring to torque spec.

    I know I should grease the threads of the lockring - any reason I shouldn't lightly grease the inside of the cassette body and the splines on the free hub?

    Then I imagine I simply put the new wheel on the bike and make sure the high and low stops on the derailleur are properly set - then adjust the shifting as normal.

    Am I missing anything? Is there any chance that I will need anything that is not included with the cassette in the box, like spacers or such?

    It just seems so simple to me, I know how to set high and low stops and adjust indexing, but I don't want the derailleur to go into the spokes first time I crank it up.

    My current wheel has the exact same cassette on it - but it is a Mavic Aksium wheel. The new one is a Reynolds hub.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    Greasing the inside and the freehub is a very good way to avoid rust issues. I strongly recomend it.

    As long as you have the spline tool for tightening up the lock ring then the rest is just as you say above.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    Greasing the inside and the freehub is a very good way to avoid rust issues. I strongly recomend it.

    As long as you have the spline tool for tightening up the lock ring then the rest is just as you say above.
    My default is always to grease things that are in contact cinched down, but sometimes it's not indicated, so thanks for that.

    Yea, I've got the lockring tool. Thanks. Might do it tonight, but am also awaiting new tires and tubes and there's still snow on the ground so I guess there's no rush!

  4. #4
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    First time I did this, I couldn't get the cogs and spacers to just come off the plastic carrier and go smoothly on the hub like it shows on the video. I ended up doing them one-by-one. But as long as you keep the order and orientation correct of all the cogs and spacers, you can't go wrong.

    - Mark

  5. #5
    100% USDA certified the beef's Avatar
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    It's very hard to mess up, as the cogs only go on one way. Just check things carefully and make sure there's no play in anything when you're done.

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    If after you tighten down the lockring there is a little play (left/right) in the cassette, you will need to add this spacer:

    http://www.aspirevelotech.com/ebayim...paceronhub.jpg

    Bob
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby Lex View Post
    If after you tighten down the lockring there is a little play (left/right) in the cassette, you will need to add this spacer:

    http://www.aspirevelotech.com/ebayim...paceronhub.jpg

    Bob
    Ah, thanks - this is exactly the sort of stuff I'm looking for, possible issues and solutions. I'm going to assume it's dead easy, but at least I have one potential "normal" problem identified.

    I think one of the things you learn as you work on stuff whether it's cars, bikes, home improvements, etc. is what sort of small problems are really normal and easy to solve.... as opposed to the instructions that usually indicate everything should go smoothly and things should fit perfectly.

  8. #8
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    I think you've got it all figured out. If you need to remove the cassette at some point you'll need a chainwhip to keep the hub from turning when you undo the lockring. Other than that it's pretty simple.

  9. #9
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    The hub splines are asymetrical so the the cogs will only go on one way, no chance for a SNAFU except lining up the smallest cog.
    Use plenty of torque, the cassette needs to be tight, no looseness or movement between cogs.
    There is no need for grease on the outside of the freehub or inside of the cassette, it will just collect dust.

    Al
    Last edited by Al1943; 03-30-08 at 03:50 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Not to long ago, I got a new cassette with the intention of mixing cogs with my current cassette to make a "custom".
    On my old spacers, a bit of material had "extruded" into the 3 rivet holes in the cogs, leaving a "raised" section on the spacer by the hole. I didn't notice it initially, and I didn't have enough room for the lockring to seat properly.
    Most of your cogs will be attached to each other by rivets/screws etc., so you'll only have a "minimum" of loose cogs anyway. I didn't realize the plastic holder was an installation tool?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    .. I didn't realize the plastic holder was an installation tool?
    Well, I can't say based on experience, but the video clip I looked at showed them sliding the cassette on the freehub, pushing the plastic keeper out the other end. We'll see....

  12. #12
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    I'd start by throwing that plastic thing away, you don't need it.

    Al

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    The Improbable Bulk Little Darwin's Avatar
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    Since you are replacing with an identical cassette, I would think that if you do need a spacer (unlikely) there will already be one there. Just keep track of what comes off, and make sure the same stuff goes on (only newer). You can reuse any spacers, especially since spacers are not subjected to friction, they don't wear out.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Little Darwin View Post
    Since you are replacing with an identical cassette, I would think that if you do need a spacer (unlikely) there will already be one there. Just keep track of what comes off, and make sure the same stuff goes on (only newer). You can reuse any spacers, especially since spacers are not subjected to friction, they don't wear out.
    Brand new wheel, brand new cassette. Old cassette is staying on old wheel. I do have an old cassette in a box somewhere (taken off just to change cluster). I'll look there first for a spacer if I need one on the new cassette/wheel.

  15. #15
    Senior Member capwater's Avatar
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    Only spacer you're gonna need on a 9-speed is if the wheel is a Mavic. There is only one way to put on a cassette since the splines are different. 9 speed SRAM has the cogs bolted together. Forget the grease, cassette doesn't move on the spline.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by capwater View Post
    Only spacer you're gonna need on a 9-speed is if the wheel is a Mavic. There is only one way to put on a cassette since the splines are different. 9 speed SRAM has the cogs bolted together. Forget the grease, cassette doesn't move on the spline.
    Good point! I misread the OP, thought he was installing a 10-speed cassette. Have edited my previous post.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by capwater View Post
    Only spacer you're gonna need on a 9-speed is if the wheel is a Mavic. There is only one way to put on a cassette since the splines are different. 9 speed SRAM has the cogs bolted together. Forget the grease, cassette doesn't move on the spline.
    This is one of the reasons I asked my question - I had this vague memory of reading somewhere that some hubs required a special spacer or such. My new wheel/hub is Reynolds, so that shouldn't be an issue.

    Why is Mavic like that? I always thought the various freehub bodies (in this case Shimano 9/10) were generic, regardless of the hub they were fitted on. Why and how is Mavic different?

    For what it's worth, my old wheel is Mavic (Aksium, a nice wheel by the way), but since the cassette is staying on there, it isn't an issue for me.

    Thanks again to everyone for the comments.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camilo View Post
    This is one of the reasons I asked my question - I had this vague memory of reading somewhere that some hubs required a special spacer or such. My new wheel/hub is Reynolds, so that shouldn't be an issue.

    Why is Mavic like that? I always thought the various freehub bodies (in this case Shimano 9/10) were generic, regardless of the hub they were fitted on. Why and how is Mavic different?

    For what it's worth, my old wheel is Mavic (Aksium, a nice wheel by the way), but since the cassette is staying on there, it isn't an issue for me.

    Thanks again to everyone for the comments.
    Many, not all, MAVIC hubs have been designed to accept their MAVIC cassette which is 2 mm wider than a Shimano 9-speed (which is 1 mm wider than a Shimano 10-speed).

  19. #19
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    I put the cassette on the free hub this evening, but the outermost sprocket doesn't seem to seat in the splines.

    This is a SRAM 970 9 speed. The cassette is all one piece except for the smallest (outermost) sprocket and the lock ring. The main body of the cassette slid on easily, and seemed to go onto the freehub as far as possible. But when I went to put the smallest sprocket on, it will just BARELY seat on the freehub splines, I mean barely - if I pushed down on it, it would seat enough to keep from spinning freely, but let up that pressure at all and it was if it didn't seat at all.

    It is properly aligned with the splines.

    I put the lockring on and just hand tightened it. That seemed to seat that cog more firmly, preventing it from spinning freely, but I'm not sure if it's really seated well. I did not torque it down, preferring to ask this esteemed forum if this seems normal. If so, I'll take the torque wrench and tighten the lockring.

    Thanks again!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camilo View Post
    I put the cassette on the free hub this evening, but the outermost sprocket doesn't seem to seat in the splines.

    This is a SRAM 970 9 speed. The cassette is all one piece except for the smallest (outermost) sprocket and the lock ring. The main body of the cassette slid on easily, and seemed to go onto the freehub as far as possible. But when I went to put the smallest sprocket on, it will just BARELY seat on the freehub splines, I mean barely - if I pushed down on it, it would seat enough to keep from spinning freely, but let up that pressure at all and it was if it didn't seat at all.

    It is properly aligned with the splines.

    I put the lockring on and just hand tightened it. That seemed to seat that cog more firmly, preventing it from spinning freely, but I'm not sure if it's really seated well. I did not torque it down, preferring to ask this esteemed forum if this seems normal. If so, I'll take the torque wrench and tighten the lockring.

    Thanks again!
    Just bumping this up to see if I can get any words of wisdom before I take a whack at it with the torque wrench. Thanks again!

  21. #21
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Are you installing an 11T cog?
    Possibly the Free Hun is NOT a Compact stle and therefore won't work with 11T.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    Are you installing an 11T cog?
    Possibly the Free Hun is NOT a Compact stle and therefore won't work with 11T.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec
    No, it's a 12. I think it's OK. My plan is to inspect everything carefully, reinstall everything and torque the lock ring to spec - then take the lock ring off again (yes, I have a chain whip), and just take a look to see if it's settled in to engage the splines. I'm pretty confident I'll be able to tell if it's engaged adequately or not. If I'm not sure, I'll just take it to the LBS and double check.

    Thanks to everyone for the advice.

  23. #23
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    Were you able to fit the last cog and lockring properly? I am having same problem. I have a brand new PG950, 9 speed casseette and the lockring seems way too small for the 12T cog threads.

    The outer circumference of the threads on the lockring do not even extend all the way to the threads on inner circumference of the 12T cog. What gives? I think I may have received mis-assembled cassette. It's hard to believe they make mistakes like that.

  24. #24
    www.theheadbadge.com cudak888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crypticlineage View Post
    What gives? I think I may have received mis-assembled cassette. It's hard to believe they make mistakes like that.
    Beware of shops that will mix-and-match their cassettes, then jury-rig something out of the remains to sell to you. Had it happen to me more times then I care, at two different local shops.

    -Kurt

  25. #25
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    Cuda, I bought this cassette on eBay. It was brand new in a sealed original package. It doesn't seem like they've mixed parts up. If it helps any, the SRAM lock ring is black in color. Is that how its supposed to be?

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