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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Will this drivetrain combo work?

    Hi Folks,

    I'm mulling over my options for a frame build-up.

    I recently acquired a modern frame (w/ 130mm rear spacing). Actually, it's Brian's (Urbanknight) 1996 vintage Litespeed Classic frame (a real beauty, BTW), and I'm anxious to get it out on the road rather than take forever finding parts for it. Unfortunately, my newest parts are from the late 80's.

    Rather than use my old bike's wheelset, I'm thinking about buying a more modern wheelset.

    So, will my late-80's vintage Shimano 600EX SIS, 7 spd derailleurs work with a modern 9/10 speed rear setup? Front will be the old Shimano 600 double Biopace crankset. I plan to use my old brakeset and aero levers (I like the simple and elegant look of single purpose brake levers). I would like to continue to use DT shifters. Can my 600EX dt shifters be switched to friction mode? If not, I wouldn't mind buying newer dt shifters, maybe the Dura Ace ones? BTW, I've been using DT shifters for over 35 years, no need for me to change now (go ahead, call me a retro-grouch ).

    Another option would be to respace my old rear wheel (7spd freewheel) to 130mm and go with that. And fyi, all my old components are still in good shape and have lots of miles of use left in them.

    Or, I can forget using the old stuff and just build it up with the latest and greatest, but I'm cheap, I like the old gear, and I don't have deep pockets so it will take time to find component deals.

    I would appreciate your thoughts on this.

    Thanks in Advance,

    Warren

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Your 7-speed (126 mm) rear wheel can be respaced to 130 mm by adding spacers and redishing. The axle protrusion into the dropout faces will be reduced from 5.5 mm per side to 3.5 mm but that's plenty. Just be sure to use a good quality internal cam skewer.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Your 7-speed (126 mm) rear wheel can be respaced to 130 mm by adding spacers and redishing. The axle protrusion into the dropout faces will be reduced from 5.5 mm per side to 3.5 mm but that's plenty. Just be sure to use a good quality internal cam skewer.
    Thanks for your advice. As for the spacers, should I put 2mm on each side, or 4mm on the non-drive side?


    Warren

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Put a 4 mm spacer on the nondrive side but recenter the axle. You want to keep the cassette in the same relationship to the driveside dropout so your chainline stays the same. Obviously the wheel will have to be redished (actually you will reduce the amount of dish).

    The only time you want to add spacers to the drive side is if the chain interfers with the dropout when in the smallest cog.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    I'd just add 2MM per side and save the dishing and axle re-centering. The only downside I see is that you would have adjust the RDER every time you swapped a wheel set. That may be a non issue.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    I'd just add 2MM per side and save the dishing and axle re-centering. The only downside I see is that you would have adjust the RDER every time you swapped a wheel set. That may be a non issue.
    Aha, the lazy man's method!

    I expect the change in chainline won't be severe enough to cause any problems if you do it that way.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Aha, the lazy man's method!

    I expect the change in chainline won't be severe enough to cause any problems if you do it that way.
    I resemble that statement!

    I have a couple of options, anyway. Thanks guys.

    --Warren

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