Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    Senior Member bellweatherman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Austin
    My Bikes
    Too many to count
    Posts
    2,070
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Which way to turn the BB cutters? - For chasing (tapping) threads

    Hi. I just got a new BB chasing tool, but no instructions. Which way do I turn the cutters for chasing the threads? thanks.
    Livestrong. The personal fundmaker of Lance Armstrong. The company who are in business to not donate to cancer research, but only to inform people that cancer is bad.

    Armstrong. The man without integrity, no care for the sport, and no problem with testing positive for EPO and making donations to cover it up.

    01101010101010001010

  2. #2
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,295
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Whichever way would tighten a bb on for that side. If it's marked R.H or L.H, this indicates thread direction... not which side of the bike you put it on.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Athens, Ohio
    My Bikes
    Custom Custom Custom
    Posts
    5,104
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The same way you thread in the respective bb cups. Remember use plenty of cutting fluid and go 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn out.

    You also want to have both cutters in the BB. The other cutter acts as a guide and lets you cut the threads correctly aligned

  4. #4
    META Severian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Madison, WI
    My Bikes
    Gary Fisher Aquila (retired), Specialized Allez Sport (in parts), Cannondale R500, HP Velotechnic Street Machine, Dented Blue Fixed Gear (retired), Seven Tsunami SSFG, Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Hardtail (alloy version)
    Posts
    945
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by nitropowered View Post
    The same way you thread in the respective bb cups. Remember use plenty of cutting fluid and go 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn out.

    You also want to have both cutters in the BB. The other cutter acts as a guide and lets you cut the threads correctly aligned
    Errm... isn't it the case that you shouldn't use cutting fluid on aluminum?

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Athens, Ohio
    My Bikes
    Custom Custom Custom
    Posts
    5,104
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Umm I'd never cut anything dry.

    http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=97

  6. #6
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,295
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Severian View Post
    Errm... isn't it the case that you shouldn't use cutting fluid on aluminum?
    No.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  7. #7
    sch
    sch is offline
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Birmingham. AL
    Posts
    2,614
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    This one situation where WD40 is useful. It is an adequate to good cutting
    fluid for aluminum and if you want to avoid chatter, use some sort of lube
    such as WD40. Use any kind of oil in a pinch, bacon grease is another option.
    WD40 is not useful for steel or Ti.

  8. #8
    META Severian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Madison, WI
    My Bikes
    Gary Fisher Aquila (retired), Specialized Allez Sport (in parts), Cannondale R500, HP Velotechnic Street Machine, Dented Blue Fixed Gear (retired), Seven Tsunami SSFG, Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Hardtail (alloy version)
    Posts
    945
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by sch View Post
    This one situation where WD40 is useful. It is an adequate to good cutting
    fluid for aluminum and if you want to avoid chatter, use some sort of lube
    such as WD40. Use any kind of oil in a pinch, bacon grease is another option.
    WD40 is not useful for steel or Ti.
    WD40 I *have* used on alum. The times I've used park cutting oil or some other similar viscosity oil on aluminium the cutting/facing tool wouldn't bite and take off any material.

    operator and nitropowered: what did you guys use? or what are you doing differently?

  9. #9
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,295
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I use the park cutting fluid, it works fine for me. That *is* what it is designed for, cutting/tapping/facing operations etc.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  10. #10
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakville Ontario
    Posts
    5,157
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Whichever way would tighten a bb on for that side. If it's marked R.H or L.H, this indicates thread direction... not which side of the bike you put it on.
    Yabut, if the taps are Park, the fine print on the tap says "Right side of bike" or "left side of bike"
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


    The greatest mistake you can make in life is to be continually fearing you will make one. Elbert Hubbard.

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
    Posts
    26,166
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Kerosene is a good cutting/tapping fluid for Al and that's basically what the majority of WD-40 is.

  12. #12
    deep stuff brucewiley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Nampa, ID
    My Bikes
    Road, Touring, Mountain Bike
    Posts
    250
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    When I was working with aluminum a lot as a fabricator, we used a Beeswax when cutting or band-sawing. I think it was actually sold specifically for that purpose.

  13. #13
    Senior Member TimJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,957
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Slightly ot- I had the lbs chase the threads on my new frame that was all powdercoated in the bb (steel) and it came back still with powdercoating in the treads. It's must better and the threads feel crisp, but it's still somewhat green (the color) for the most part. Also the sides of the bb, it's been faced like 80-90% around, but there's still a patch of green. I'm assuming (hoping) that there was a slight depression in the side of the bb so rather than keep cutting down to where there wouldn't be any paint left, they just squared it up by taking a minimal amount off.

    Anyway, is this typical? I always thought the point of chasing the threads was to remove all the paint. Or is it just mostly to get the threads and bb straightened up to proper depth, etc.?
    fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
    "Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
    Posts
    26,166
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by TimJ View Post
    I always thought the point of chasing the threads was to remove all the paint. Or is it just mostly to get the threads and bb straightened up to proper depth, etc.?
    Chasing is done to get the threads clean, smooth and at the proper depth. Facing is done to be sure the opposite bottom bracket (or head tube) faces are flat and parallel. If all that's required is scraping off excess paint, that's fine but often some metal has to be removed too.

  15. #15
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,295
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by TimJ View Post
    Slightly ot- I had the lbs chase the threads on my new frame that was all powdercoated in the bb (steel) and it came back still with powdercoating in the treads. It's must better and the threads feel crisp, but it's still somewhat green (the color) for the most part. Also the sides of the bb, it's been faced like 80-90% around, but there's still a patch of green. I'm assuming (hoping) that there was a slight depression in the side of the bb so rather than keep cutting down to where there wouldn't be any paint left, they just squared it up by taking a minimal amount off.

    Anyway, is this typical? I always thought the point of chasing the threads was to remove all the paint. Or is it just mostly to get the threads and bb straightened up to proper depth, etc.?
    Facing isn't so important if you're putting in a cartridge bb.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •