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  1. #1
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    Help me buy parts for Sturmey Archer AW 66 3 speed hub?

    Hi,

    I acquired a Raleigh Record that someone had begun to set up with a 3 speed hub. Right now it's just running as a single speed -- it has no shifter, cable, indicator spindle/chain, so I need to buy those parts.

    It looks like J&B importers supplies a full line of parts, so my local shop is going to order the bits I need, but they're not very familiar with 3 spd hubs so I need to figure this out myself. Could someone let me know if the parts I'm buying are right for this hub? It's the standard AW model, 1966.

    Here is what J&B carries:

    http://74.8.32.132/nondealer/view.ph...STURMEY+ARCHER

    And here is my best guess for what I need to buy (shifter, cable, and indicator):

    SHIFTER S/A 3sp HSJ-762 ORIGINAL S.A.
    Part # 53231

    CABLE GEAR S/A 3sp HSJ-102HP
    Part #: 14403

    HUB 3sp S/A INDICATOR SPINDLE SHORT (STD3 SPD) ***SUB 3
    Part #: 37537

    Assuming there are no internal parts missing or broken, does that look like everything I would need? I'm especially confused about the indicator spindle since there are a few options, and J&B's descriptions leave something to be desired.

    Thanks in advance for your help!

  2. #2
    surly old man jgedwa's Avatar
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    I can't answer the questions directly. But, these hubs are very common on low end cruiser bikes from the 70's. Consider keeping your eye out for a crappy used one (they sell for peanuts usually), and switch over the parts you need.

    jim
    Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
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  3. #3
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    That makes sense -- the prices for the new parts are low enough that I figured it might be worth my $20 to just go the less hassle route, but it is true that there are certainly bins and bins of these parts lying around somewhere.

    Also, to somewhat answer my own question, I just realized that QBP carries these parts too, and their descriptions are somewhat clearer. Using aebike.com (which is just tied in to the QBP catalog) it looks like I either need what they list as "Sturmey Archer Mark I Indicator Chain 3 speed (HU2225)" or the "Sturmey Archer Mark II Indicator Chain 3 speed (HU2226) $4.99" -- both list compatability with AW hubs, but for 146mm 163mm axles respectively. Not sure what that means, but it seems a more promising start to figure out what I need.

  4. #4
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    Just to update: I was confused because those two axle measurements seemed huge compared to frame spacing and over locknut axle measurements, since I didn't really understand that the axle on these hubs extends out quite a bit on the drive side. So the answer for me is the 146mm model.

  5. #5
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    Yep, the Mark I is right for the old AWs. I have an order for 3 of them from ebikestop.com right now. It's somewhat worthwhile to stock up, since if you crash and the bicycle hits the ground on the right side, it usually immediately mangles the indicator chain where it protrudes from the hub. Many vendors charge outrageous prices for indicator chains, however.

    I don't like the look of the new black plastic shifters, so I got a N.O.S. vintage one on eBay for about the same price for my own 3-speed.

    You'll also need a cable routing system...I suppose that you could route the cable through housing all the way down, but the way it's done on my bike has the bare cable going through a pulley system for most of its journey from the handlebars. You might have some of the hardware still on the frame. It consists of a plastic "fulcrum sleeve" (cable stop) mounted in a special clip on the down tube and a pulley assembly down near the bottom bracket. I've seen other bikes use the same technology but route the cable along the top tube with the pulley near the seat cluster. The fulcrum sleeves tend to shatter with age, so it might be hard to get a good one off a donor bike.

    I heart AW hubs.

  6. #6
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    Thanks! So that would mean ordering this:

    - Sturmey Archer Gear selector guide (CA3230)

    and this:

    - Sturmey Archer Fulcrum sleeve (CA3250)

    Right? Numbers in parentheses are QBP catalog #s; all sturmey archer parts available from QBP can be seen here:

    http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...nsearch=Search

  7. #7
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    I prefer using a continuous housing from the shifter to the cable stop on the chain stay as this really keeps the cable cleaner, reduces corrosion, and promotes smoother shifting. This also means that there is less chance of the cable being snagged.

    There is also a small plastic guard that goes over the indicator spindle that will protect it from impacts.

    Our shop ( a co-op) is well stocked with both new and vintage SA parts so finding things like this is never an issue for me and a great resource for those here who also heart old three speeds.

    Our local shops do not carry any SA parts.

  8. #8
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    Thanks - that makes sense. If one were running continuous housing, is the bolt-on "anchorage" that comes with the cable/housing the only housing stop needed?

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/s...her-parts.html

    Your coop sounds great -- Western canuckistan is lucky to have you. Not sure what we have that's equivalent for SA parts here in midwestern yankistan.

  9. #9
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    You do have to secure the cable along the frame with cable slips or zip ties and make sure the cable stop is positioned correctly on the stay (if this is the set up you have).

    My '54 Raleigh has it's cable routed over the top tube and down the seat stay where there is a pulley and has a lot more naked cable showing... I am going to change this as the exposed cable is prone to getting snagged.

    Our co-op has been going for 26 years and in this time we have managed to rescue a lot of old bikes and even they have been unrestorable, we have saved every useable part.

  10. #10
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    Just noticed you were in Chicago...

    ...which unfortunately just became irrelevant. Down by my place, in Hyde Park, there was a bike shop called Art's, at 53rd and South Hyde Park (1700E), which carried AW hub stuff. They were better at the internals than the externals, though, and more to the point they just went out of business.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_ill_postino View Post
    Thanks! So that would mean ordering this:

    - Sturmey Archer Gear selector guide (CA3230)

    and this:

    - Sturmey Archer Fulcrum sleeve (CA3250)

    Right? Numbers in parentheses are QBP catalog #s; all sturmey archer parts available from QBP can be seen here:

    http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...nsearch=Search
    I like Sixty Fiver's idea of using continuous housing. If you buy the shifter cable, enough housing comes with it to do this (my shipment just arrived, and I checked). If you do it this way, the above two items are not needed.

    In fact, what got me going on this whole AW kick was an accident eight months ago when my chainring caught my (bare) shifter cable and my whole shifting system committed suicide. I didn't know just how robust the AW is, so I opened it up and overhauled it, and I was hooked.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_ill_postino View Post
    Thanks - that makes sense. If one were running continuous housing, is the bolt-on "anchorage" that comes with the cable/housing the only housing stop needed?
    The bolt-on "anchorage" connects the cable to the indicator spindle. You'll need something else for the housing to push against. What people actually use for housing stops on the stay, however, is beyond me. Now I'm actually curious about this...I've torn down a '70 Schwinn Breeze, and when I reassemble it I think I will do the cabling this way!

  13. #13
    Junior Member ditty bopper's Avatar
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    + on the continuous housing idea. When I 'upgraded' to a SRAM Dual Drive continuous was required and I used a selection of these:
    http://pricepoint.resultspage.com/se...w=cable+guides

  14. #14
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    I prefer the old style bare cable, but my pulley wheel is steel and my fulcrum sleeve is stainless steel. You can buy them new. I've never had a problem with snagging the cable, but I guess it could happen.

    http://www.3speedtour.com/ Click on "parts".
    Last edited by Grand Bois; 04-15-08 at 09:40 AM.

  15. #15
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    Has your SA hub been serviced recently? Star clutch and planet gear may be worn or chipped. You don't want to buy missing parts if you're not sure it will finally run. Disassembling, servicing (cleaning), and reassembling is not rocket science. The original service manual is on the internet.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtdrop View Post
    I prefer the old style bare cable, but my pulley wheel is steel and my fulcrum sleeve is stainless steel. You can buy them new.
    Wow! I had no idea anyone was making those parts in steel!

    Quote Originally Posted by Berre View Post
    Disassembling, servicing (cleaning), and reassembling is not rocket science. The original service manual is on the internet.
    +1; I'd also say that it's really fun and that the internals of a gearhub are fascinatingly beautiful. The only tools really needed are a hammer and punch, screwdrivers (to pry the circlip on and off), standard wrenches, and a vise (even a flimsy vise is ok). 16 mm cone wrenches are helpful, but I got away without any cone wrenches during my first AW overhaul. While you're in there, why not also customize your gearing with a new sprocket?

  17. #17
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    I like running the cable bare, and have no trouble with it under the bottom bracket on my rain bike. Might not be the case with your Raleigh. Look at the diagram here to make sure you have all the tidbits. See if you can find an SA tinkerer on Craigslist - I got my miscellaneous parts for free from a fellow bike nut.

    SA Servicing

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