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Rubber cement for tire patching?

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Old 04-29-08, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeyLikesIt

Now I can leave the little tube in my patch kit unopened and ready for emergencies.

Mikey
Exactly right. I came accross an unopened 15-year-old Rema kit the other day. The tube of glue still has a nice heft. Back in the bag it went.
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Old 04-29-08, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bellweatherman
And I ain't buying that german crap anyways.
Versus what? Or is it just Germany you have a problem with? The War is over. Time to move on.
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Old 07-30-08, 07:00 PM
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I bought a jar of rubber cement for $1.50 at menards and it doesn't hold when inflating at all.
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Old 07-30-08, 10:26 PM
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On a similar note, I'm thinking of buying a bunch of patch kits online. If i store those somewhere cool and never crack open the glue, will they keep and not dry up?
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Old 07-31-08, 03:24 PM
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Test out both rubber-cement and vulcanizing-fluid 1-month after using it. Peel off the patch that had rubber cement and see how easy it comes off? Sure the pressure will keep it squeezed between the tube & tyre, but I've had patches creep on fast mountain downhills (45-50mph) with full 100% braking into bumpy corners.

Now after a month with the vulcanizing-fluid, try peeling that patch off. It won't. It's chemically fused to the tube and you'll end up ripping the patch and/or the tube, but it will not separate from the tube.
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Old 09-29-14, 12:41 PM
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Elmers Rubber Cement

Originally Posted by FlatFender
Ive been using a jar of elmers rubber cement for a while now. seems to work fine.
Elmers Rubber Cement contains Heptane necessary for vulcanizing. It does not contain the cyclohexylamine reagent/accelerator for quick drying. It makes a strong very inexpensive bond. It should dry for at least 1 hour instead of 5 mins
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Old 09-29-14, 12:45 PM
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you can get case lots of those little tubes too .
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Old 09-29-14, 01:27 PM
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Old 09-29-14, 03:58 PM
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I've used both Elmer's rubber cement and vulcanizing fluid from the auto parts store. The vulcanizing fluid works fine, hasn't dried out after several years in the can, and the price was about $5 vs. $20 for the Rema can (and no wait for delivery).

The Elmer's glue worked. I patched the tube at home and wasn't trying to ride in within the next hour, so I didn't test this. The little jar dried up & hardened a bit faster than the can of vulcanizing fluid (which is still OK after 4 years, used it recently).

The little Rema tubes all dried up quickly after the first use; I had at least on that solidified before I opened it. (Maybe it was damaged before use? too old?). Cheapest and easiest for me was to buy a box of 100 Rema patches, and generic auto vulcanizing fluid.
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Old 09-29-14, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by neilG
No way! You're gonna DIE! I've used contact cement and Barge cement and they work too, in a pinch. Does anyone remember the real vulcanizing patches you actually ignited?
They were called hot patches.
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Old 09-29-14, 04:25 PM
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WOW thread started 04-27-08 in and the answer has still not been found
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Old 09-29-14, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JTGraphics
WOW thread started 04-27-08 in and the answer has still not been found
What was the question?
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Old 09-29-14, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AnnamariaSalemi
Elmers Rubber Cement contains Heptane necessary for vulcanizing. It does not contain the cyclohexylamine reagent/accelerator for quick drying. It makes a strong very inexpensive bond. It should dry for at least 1 hour instead of 5 mins
Heptane doesn't do anything for "vulcanizing". Vulcanizing is the process of adding sulfur to the rubber to cross link it and harden it to make it more durable. The accelerator present in the vulcanizing fluid of a Rema system does cross link the existing polymer. Rubber cement does not. Rubber cement is simply a surface adhesive.

Originally Posted by JTGraphics
WOW thread started in 04-27-08 and the answer has still not been found

The answer was found long ago. See post 30 above. Some people are just cheap.
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Old 09-29-14, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AnnamariaSalemi
Elmers Rubber Cement contains Heptane necessary for vulcanizing. It does not contain the cyclohexylamine reagent/accelerator for quick drying. It makes a strong very inexpensive bond. It should dry for at least 1 hour instead of 5 mins
Well, you are right but the last posting on this thread prior to yours was over 6 years ago. Zombie thread for sure.
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Old 09-29-14, 05:12 PM
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Go to the auto supply store and buy a can of Slime rubber patch cement. I don't remember how much it costs, but it's cheap.
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Old 09-29-14, 05:15 PM
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If you put the can of vulcanizing cement in a glad jar and store it in the freezer it will
last forever. Ed
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Old 09-29-14, 05:32 PM
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Ha, yes, but the cement should be dry by now...
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Old 09-29-14, 07:58 PM
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Yes I know I have tried it also with the same results LOL

I have a 8-oz. can of Rema Cold Vulcanizing Cement $8 and bulk 100 patches $6 for patching at home and save those little tubes for my saddle bag.
And yes the grandkids make me actually use them a lot!

I also remember using Camel Vulcanizing Patchs and Monkey Grip they were great! and fun to watch

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Old 09-30-14, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Heptane doesn't do anything for "vulcanizing". Vulcanizing is the process of adding sulfur to the rubber to cross link it and harden it to make it more durable. The accelerator present in the vulcanizing fluid of a Rema system does cross link the existing polymer. Rubber cement does not. Rubber cement is simply a surface adhesive.

The answer was found long ago. See post 30 above. Some people are just cheap.
Nowadays vulcanizing means crosslinking rubber with sulfur or many other chemical agents. I suspect the crosslinking agent is incorporated into the patch and the vulcanizing rubber cement contains the accelerator to make it all go at room temperature. The solvent in the rubber cement helps spread all the chemistry around. The rubber in the cement bonds to the patch and to the tube and holds the whole thing together.
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Old 09-30-14, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Nowadays vulcanizing means crosslinking rubber with sulfur or many other chemical agents. I suspect the crosslinking agent is incorporated into the patch and the vulcanizing rubber cement contains the accelerator to make it all go at room temperature. The solvent in the rubber cement helps spread all the chemistry around. The rubber in the cement bonds to the patch and to the tube and holds the whole thing together.
Vulcanization still means adding sulfur to the latex to harden it. The cold vulcanizing patches take advantage of the sulfur that is already there to form new bonds in rubber by using chemicals to catalyze the reaction. And, yes, the solvent is there to make the chemicals more mobile.

However, "rubber cement" doesn't contain the catalytic agents and thus forms no new bonds with the rubber of the tube. And the solvent isn't involve in the reaction at all and has to be removed in both rubber cement and in the vulcanizing fluid. That's why the bonds can't be made until the vulcanizing fluid has a matt finish...the solvent has to evaporate and get out of the way. It actually interferes with the vulcanization.
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Old 09-30-14, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Vulcanization still means adding sulfur to the latex to harden it. The cold vulcanizing patches take advantage of the sulfur that is already there to form new bonds in rubber by using chemicals to catalyze the reaction. And, yes, the solvent is there to make the chemicals more mobile.

However, "rubber cement" doesn't contain the catalytic agents and thus forms no new bonds with the rubber of the tube. And the solvent isn't involve in the reaction at all and has to be removed in both rubber cement and in the vulcanizing fluid. That's why the bonds can't be made until the vulcanizing fluid has a matt finish...the solvent has to evaporate and get out of the way. It actually interferes with the vulcanization.
Just about everything you said is correct. In fact it is all correct, just not complete. Yes, vulcanization does almost always mean using sulfur. I am just commenting that the process is still called vulcanization no matter what cross-linking agent might be used. An example would be the use of phenol-formaldehyde resin to cure halobutyl rubber such as is used in the air barrier layer of tubeless tires and in some tubes. Other examples would be specialty rubbers like silicone which are cured differently. And rubber used in food contact applications may not contain sulfur in order to avoid the nasty odor that traditional curing recipes cause. Clearly I am just nit-picking. Sorry, sometimes I just can't help it.
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Old 09-30-14, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bellweatherman
Do you know the history of that German Rema company?
No, but I'm now intrigued...
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Old 10-01-14, 10:22 AM
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Maybe rubber cement shouldn't work as well as vulcanizing fluid, but it works perfectly well for me. I appreciate the explanations. They are interesting. I don't know why I have had such success with the wrong stuff. Is it similar to how bumble bees shouldn't be able to fly but do anyway?
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Old 10-01-14, 12:16 PM
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I've tried rubber cement and it worked OK, but I was able to pretty easily pull the patches off the tube if I tried. With the vulcanizing fluid, pulling the patch off is basically impossible and the tube tears if I try. IDK what this means in actual use except perhaps that rubber cement might be more likely to develop a leak over time. Since I tend to continue to use tubes that accumulate multiple patches, I stick with the vulcanizing fluid.
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Old 10-01-14, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
Is it similar to how bumble bees shouldn't be able to fly but do anyway?
snopes.com: Bumblebees Can't Fly
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