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  1. #1
    Senior Member Bontrager's Avatar
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    Problem with Mavic Ksyrium SL and Shimano 10 speed cassette.

    I installed a Shimano Ultegra 10 speed cassette with what seemed to be a very thin Shimano spacer on a used 2006 Mavic Kysrium SL SCC rear wheel.

    ** | >

    Freehub -- very thin spacer - cassette

    It wiggled.

    Did some asking, searching. Read the oh-so-informative Mavic wheel manual for 2008's and saw that I needed a spacer. http://www.mavic.com/medias/tips/pdf...user-guide.pdf

    Went to my LBS. got Mavic branded Part M40417 1.75mm spacer for $2.99. Just for kicks I compared it with other Mavic rims they had on display (Cosmic's and Ksyrium Elites, not my particular rim) and it was the same width.

    Came home and put it on.

    ** I | >

    Freehub - 1.75mm Mavic spacer - thin shimano spacer - cassette.

    It felt like it would be tighter. Nope. Still wiggled. Probably the same as before. But I can't bring myself to think that the spacer didn't do anything.

    Rim supposedly has 400 miles. No gouges in freehub. Looks pristine. My cassette has about 1,000 miles and looks pristine where it mates with the freehub. There's a very tiny amount of play between the ribs of the freehub and my sprockets which I guess is probably normal.

    Any thoughts? Do I need a thicker spacer? Is my freehub loose? Bearings loose? It still looks like the sprockets are moving on the freehub body leading me to believe the spacers are too thin still.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Bontrager's Avatar
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    Took the cassette off. Grabbing the freehub from the outside edge and moving it shows a tiny amount of play.
    08 Giant TCR Alliance Custom Build
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  3. #3
    Keep it greasy.
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    Funny thing. I'm having the same problem with my AKsium Race and 10 speed Shimano cassette.
    I think it's OK to have some play, as it hasn't caused me any trouble yet, beyond some annoying shaking around on bumpy concrete.

  4. #4
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    It is very important to have no slack or looseness in the cassette. All of the cogs should be tightly held to the freehub. Loose cogs can damage the freehub.
    Be sure that the smallest cog is aligned correctly with the hub splines, if not the lockring will tighten down on the first cog but won't tighten the rest of the cassette.
    If the first position cog is an 11 you need the special 11 cog lockring.
    I thought that the MAVIC spacer was 2 mm.

    Al

  5. #5
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    My understanding of the Mavic hubs is this:

    Mavic hubs need a special Mavic spacer for all non-mavic Cassettes. For example, a 9 speed cassette on a non-mavic 9-10 speed hub would need no spacer, but on a Mavic hub, it will need that Mavic spacer.

    A 10 speed hub would need a little spacer on any 9-10 speed hub. If it's Mavic hub, it will need that little spacer IN ADDITION to the Mavic spacer.

    Hope that makes sense and is an accurate understanding.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bontrager's Avatar
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    Regardless of which size it is - the freehub is showing just a tiniest amount of play. The cassette sprockets themselves are tight on one another and don't move relative to one another. They all move in unison ever so slightly. Thats when I figured it wasn't the cassette or lockring. Took the cassette off and am now noticing the freehub has the play that I am blaming the cassette/spacer/lockring. It's a 12-25.

    I took apart the hub/freewheel to take a look. It is pristine. No dirt or dust anywhere. It look like it was just serviced, it's so clean. The only thing I can think of is that the freehub plastic diameter is increased as noted on this website:

    http://roguemechanic.typepad.com/rog...es_a_mavi.html

    because I can't find anything else wrong. Just for giggles, when I had the freehub body off, I put on the cassette with the spacers, etc and the locknut snug (but not at 40 ft-lbs) and there was no play within the cassette on the freehub itself. This leads me to believe that the website mentioned above is right.


    My process was pretty much like this except I didn't clean anything off and I didn't remove the rubber seal thingy.

    http://www.elviskennedy.com/mavichub/index.html

    So it sounds like this is a known, common issue with Mavic's. Man I wished I knew about this before I shelled out the money for them. $60 bucks for a new freehub. Wonder how long that'll last
    08 Giant TCR Alliance Custom Build
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  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camilo View Post
    A 10 speed hub would need a little spacer on any 9-10 speed hub. If it's Mavic hub, it will need that little spacer IN ADDITION to the Mavic spacer.
    I don't think that is what you really mean.
    Actually a 10-speed Shimano cassette needs the thin spacer when used on any hub that is 8,9,10-speed Shimano compatible. And on many (not all) MAVIC hubs the MAVIC spacer will also be needed.
    Some 10-speed specific hubs do not require the spacer with the 10-speed Shimano cassettes.

    Al

  8. #8
    Keep it greasy.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al1943 View Post
    It is very important to have no slack or looseness in the cassette. All of the cogs should be tightly held to the freehub. Loose cogs can damage the freehub.
    Be sure that the smallest cog is aligned correctly with the hub splines, if not the lockring will tighten down on the first cog but won't tighten the rest of the cassette.
    If the first position cog is an 11 you need the special 11 cog lockring.
    I thought that the MAVIC spacer was 2 mm.

    Al
    Ugh, I guess my LBS didn't tell me that when the sold me the wheel and installed my cassette for me. Oh well.

    Yeah I think this must be a thing with Mavic hubs. I didn't experience any play with the Bontrager rear wheel I replaced.

  9. #9
    aka Sanchez Sanchana's Avatar
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    This is one of many reasons why Mavic hubs suck

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