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  1. #1
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    JP Weigle Frame Saver alternatives

    I can't get JP Weigle shipped to Italy, it's aerosol - Duh!

    Well, I need an alternative, I've been checking local cycling shops, but no luck. The language barrier is tough, so explaining what I need is troublesome. (I know, I'm learning Italian, little by little, but it's tough)

    I'd like to know what alternatives I could use to protect my steel frames. I've got a Casseroll, a Niner, and a Raleigh One-way that I'd like to last a lifetime.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member robo's Avatar
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    Is that stuff even really necessary?

  3. #3
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    There is another very similar (identical?) metal protectant made by Amsoil called HDMP but it's also an aerosol and probably can't be shipped to you either. Here in the US it's sold by automobile, motorcycle (as a chain lube) and marine stores so you might find it it Italy at one of those places.

    Otherwise, some have reported good using boiled Linseed Oil coated in the inside of frame tubes but it's very slow to dry and rather messy. It's available at most paint stores.

  4. #4
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    There are many "rust inhibitor" products for cars and boats.

  5. #5
    experience over lungs
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    I use Boeshield T9. Have a big bottle from the days when I used it on the chain before ProLink. The nice thing about it is that it is readily available (at least in the US) in boating shops as both a rust inhibitor and lubricant, does a great job as squeak stopper on my look pedals, and doesn't cost much.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Otherwise, some have reported good using boiled Linseed Oil coated in the inside of frame tubes but it's very slow to dry and rather messy. It's available at most paint stores.
    Yup yup. Boiled linseed oil is my frame prep of choice. It smells nice and is nontoxic (linseed=flaxseed, a healthy seed full of Omega-3 fatty acids), plus it's probably available in Italy.

    One important thing is that the oil dries and hardens oxidatively and releases heat doing so. If you left rags soaked in linseed oil in a crumpled-up state, the heat could actually cause the rags to set themselves on fire spontaneously. Thus, clean-up is important: wash the rags, lay them flat to dry, or incinerate them.

    The "boiled" thing is actually a semi-chemical treatment that helps the oil dry faster and harder (vs. slowly to a gummy residue). I have no idea how linseed oil would work if it weren't boiled.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLYcrash View Post
    The "boiled" thing is actually a semi-chemical treatment that helps the oil dry faster and harder (vs. slowly to a gummy residue). I have no idea how linseed oil would work if it weren't boiled.
    "Raw" linseed oil will eventually dry (oxidize actually) but eventually can be a long time. Get the "boiled" version.

  8. #8
    Pwnerer Wordbiker's Avatar
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    Even WD-40 does a good job of rust prevention. I use it to keep my drywall knives from rusting.

    No, I won't do drywall work on your house.
    Quote Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
    Ski, bike and wish I was gay.

  9. #9
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    Thanks, I'll start looking for boiled linseed oil in hardware stores too.

    I don't think there's a lot of boating supply in my area of italy, but since I'll be in paint/hardware stores I'll look for other things. I'll have to look up how to say/read "rust prohibitive" in Italian!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by robo View Post
    Is that stuff even really necessary?
    I've been told it is. The wall thickness of modern light steel bicycles is pretty thin.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbiker View Post
    Even WD-40 does a good job of rust prevention. I use it to keep my drywall knives from rusting.

    No, I won't do drywall work on your house.
    lol, I also use it on my pocket knives. But WD-40 will eventually dry out, and needs to be reapplied.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Chuckie J.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLYcrash View Post
    One important thing is that the oil dries and hardens oxidatively and releases heat doing so. If you left rags soaked in linseed oil in a crumpled-up state, the heat could actually cause the rags to set themselves on fire spontaneously. Thus, clean-up is important: wash the rags, lay them flat to dry, or incinerate them.
    Here in Albuquerque a downtown club went up in flames because of precisely this reason. It can, and has, happened. Be careful.

    http://www.alibi.com/index.php?story=22430&scn=music

  13. #13
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    I don't know anything about shipping aerosols but here's the UK distributor FWIW.www.framebuilding.com/index.html

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckie J. View Post
    Here in Albuquerque a downtown club went up in flames because of precisely this reason. It can, and has, happened. Be careful.

    http://www.alibi.com/index.php?story=22430&scn=music
    One or two rags won't do this. You need a large pile of rags to act as insulation so the center of the pile can get hot enough to ignite. Large compost heaps in a garden or in a barn can do the same thing. A small heap of grass won't since the heat escapes before the temperature can get high enough to cause problems.

  15. #15
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    I don't know if folks in the UK work on their own cars, but you can go to an autoparts store and buy rust inhibitor which looks and smells identical to the JP Weigle stuff.

    I was told that Phil Wood is simply some 2 stroke engine oil. When I questioned that, the guy telling me (a sales rep who sold Phil Wood product) asked me if I thought Phil Wood had enough money to develop something like that on his own. Same goes for JP Weigle (he's a local framebuilder, or used to be, and I have nothing against him, and in fact I think he made great frames).

    cdr

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by carpediemracing View Post
    I don't know if folks in the UK work on their own cars, but you can go to an autoparts store and buy rust inhibitor which looks and smells identical to the JP Weigle stuff.
    cdr
    That's the Amsoil HDMP I mentioned above. As you say, Weigle isn't a chemist and Phil Wood doesn't have his own refinery.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    That's the Amsoil HDMP I mentioned above. As you say, Weigle isn't a chemist and Phil Wood doesn't have his own refinery.
    Go to a Ducati dealer and get some chain lube...That is probably one of the ingredients...

  18. #18
    Senior Member Ziemas's Avatar
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    Check out the local high-end auto parts supply store. There is a British firm called Dinitrol and a German firm called Teroson which both make rust prevention sprays similar to FrameSaver/HDMP. Just make sure whatever you get is both thin enough to slosh around in the tubes, and will also set into a waxy film.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Phil Wood doesn't have his own refinery.
    Were you my sales rep? Exact words he used...

    cdr

  20. #20
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    When I lived in the UK there was a rustproofing for cars called Waxoyl that, IIRC, was similar to JP Weigle. Maybe they have an Italian distributor?

  21. #21
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    I'll look for these products!

    I haven't seen any real auto parts stores like in the states. I'm not sure how much they're allowed to work on their own cars, I know it may sound silly. They can't modify their cars at all, only add aftermarket wheels, body parts, simple stuff.

  22. #22
    Senior Member cman's Avatar
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    Auto Parts store.- Fogging oil comes in an aersol can.

  23. #23
    Domestic Domestique UnsafeAlpine's Avatar
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    Linseed oil is what aircraft builders use to coat the inside of steel tubing.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by smd3 View Post
    ...
    I haven't seen any real auto parts stores like in the states. ... They can't modify their cars at all, only add aftermarket wheels, body parts, simple stuff.
    Just because it isn't smog board legal doesn't mean that it doesn't happen (a lot!). There's quite a big "tuning" scene.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnsafeAlpine View Post
    Linseed oil is what aircraft builders use to coat the inside of steel tubing.
    Still or years in the past? I'm sure they have some much better rust inhibitors now days.

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