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Old 05-03-08, 09:44 PM   #1
sherief
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Old hubs and spoke gauge problems

I've been trying to build up some wheels around a set of old gran sport hubs that I came across, but when I tried to start putting in the spokes, I noticed that the standard DT Swiss double butted (14/15g i believe) spokes that I was using BARELY fit in the flange holes, and by the time i tried to seat them at the j-bend they were in serious danger of gouging out the flange holes.

Does anyone know of any good (correct?) spoke gauges for old campy hubs, and who supplies these? I've been having a harder time trying to find higher gauge spokes in general and I'm hoping someone could point me in the right direction before I go about ordering another potentially incompatible set of spokes.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-03-08, 10:32 PM   #2
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Maybe that's why several old Campy/tubulars wheelsets I've owned came with 15g spokes? Other than that I'm of little help. I have heard of a spoke setting tool that is used to seat spokes, but never had an instance where I would need one. I guess you have that need.
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Old 05-03-08, 10:35 PM   #3
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I've been trying to build up some wheels around a set of old gran sport hubs that I came across, but when I tried to start putting in the spokes, I noticed that the standard DT Swiss double butted (14/15g i believe) spokes that I was using BARELY fit in the flange holes, and by the time i tried to seat them at the j-bend they were in serious danger of gouging out the flange holes.
14-gauge spokes are appropriate for those hubs. IME, older Campy hubs were always a little tight, and required some "seating" of the spokes while tensioning. As long as the bend of the spoke seats on the hub flange completely, I think you'll be fine.
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Old 05-03-08, 10:47 PM   #4
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So I want to believe you jeff, but I'm looking at the aluminum on the flange where that was seating (If i recall, it was going all the way to the end) and there's definitely a small "crater" where it bent in. Also, i failed to mention that the only way i got the spoke in that far was by "threading" it through the flange hole. Still just a tightness issue?
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Old 05-03-08, 11:59 PM   #5
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Yup. Spokes are supposed to dent the flange, and the tighter the fit the better.
If it's a real hassle, buy a 2mm drill bit and do each hole in the hub.
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Old 05-04-08, 09:04 AM   #6
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Wouldn't that weaken the structural integrity of the flanges? I don't want this guy to snap on me. I saw the picture on Sheldon's...
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Old 05-05-08, 03:03 AM   #7
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If you're opening a 1.8mm hole to 2mm, that's removing .1mm of material between the hole and the outer edge of the flange. That is next to nothing.
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Old 05-06-08, 10:53 PM   #8
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So I want to believe you jeff, but I'm looking at the aluminum on the flange where that was seating (If i recall, it was going all the way to the end) and there's definitely a small "crater" where it bent in. Also, i failed to mention that the only way i got the spoke in that far was by "threading" it through the flange hole. Still just a tightness issue?
Yep. I've had to thread spokes through the holes on quite a few hubs. The better hubs tend to be tighter- which means they'll support the end of the spoke better. Build 'em, true 'em, tension 'em, and go ride!
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Old 05-07-08, 01:01 AM   #9
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I suggest you use Wheelsmith or Sapim spokes instead for the Campy wheel build. DT Swiss spokes have a stress riser at the spoke elbow. That's why they fit so tightly in the Campy hubs.
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