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  1. #1
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    Old hubs and spoke gauge problems

    I've been trying to build up some wheels around a set of old gran sport hubs that I came across, but when I tried to start putting in the spokes, I noticed that the standard DT Swiss double butted (14/15g i believe) spokes that I was using BARELY fit in the flange holes, and by the time i tried to seat them at the j-bend they were in serious danger of gouging out the flange holes.

    Does anyone know of any good (correct?) spoke gauges for old campy hubs, and who supplies these? I've been having a harder time trying to find higher gauge spokes in general and I'm hoping someone could point me in the right direction before I go about ordering another potentially incompatible set of spokes.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    slow as I ever was Ex Pres's Avatar
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    Maybe that's why several old Campy/tubulars wheelsets I've owned came with 15g spokes? Other than that I'm of little help. I have heard of a spoke setting tool that is used to seat spokes, but never had an instance where I would need one. I guess you have that need.
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  3. #3
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sherief View Post
    I've been trying to build up some wheels around a set of old gran sport hubs that I came across, but when I tried to start putting in the spokes, I noticed that the standard DT Swiss double butted (14/15g i believe) spokes that I was using BARELY fit in the flange holes, and by the time i tried to seat them at the j-bend they were in serious danger of gouging out the flange holes.
    14-gauge spokes are appropriate for those hubs. IME, older Campy hubs were always a little tight, and required some "seating" of the spokes while tensioning. As long as the bend of the spoke seats on the hub flange completely, I think you'll be fine.
    Jeff Wills

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  4. #4
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    So I want to believe you jeff, but I'm looking at the aluminum on the flange where that was seating (If i recall, it was going all the way to the end) and there's definitely a small "crater" where it bent in. Also, i failed to mention that the only way i got the spoke in that far was by "threading" it through the flange hole. Still just a tightness issue?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Torchy McFlux's Avatar
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    Yup. Spokes are supposed to dent the flange, and the tighter the fit the better.
    If it's a real hassle, buy a 2mm drill bit and do each hole in the hub.

  6. #6
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    Wouldn't that weaken the structural integrity of the flanges? I don't want this guy to snap on me. I saw the picture on Sheldon's...

  7. #7
    Senior Member Torchy McFlux's Avatar
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    If you're opening a 1.8mm hole to 2mm, that's removing .1mm of material between the hole and the outer edge of the flange. That is next to nothing.

  8. #8
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sherief View Post
    So I want to believe you jeff, but I'm looking at the aluminum on the flange where that was seating (If i recall, it was going all the way to the end) and there's definitely a small "crater" where it bent in. Also, i failed to mention that the only way i got the spoke in that far was by "threading" it through the flange hole. Still just a tightness issue?
    Yep. I've had to thread spokes through the holes on quite a few hubs. The better hubs tend to be tighter- which means they'll support the end of the spoke better. Build 'em, true 'em, tension 'em, and go ride!
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  9. #9
    lurking nightrider LittleGinseng's Avatar
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    I suggest you use Wheelsmith or Sapim spokes instead for the Campy wheel build. DT Swiss spokes have a stress riser at the spoke elbow. That's why they fit so tightly in the Campy hubs.
    "If there hadn't been women we'd still be squatting in a cave eating raw meat, because we made civilization in order to impress our girl friends. And they tolerated it and let us go ahead and play with our toys."Orson Wells

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