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  1. #1
    fishologist cohophysh's Avatar
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    dropouts, quick release and axles, assistance please

    Hi, I just bought some hubs with quick release and I was wondering how far into the drop out is the axle supposed to go? I assume if the axle is to long the quick release won't work, but what is to short??
    We cannot solve problems with the same level of consciousness that created them. A.E.

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  2. #2
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    The axle ends should stick out no more than the thickness of the dropouts for the quick release to work properly.

  3. #3
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    The nut should be threaded tight enough so that when you close the lever, it leaves an impression on your hand. That's the basic rule of thumb. You should feel some resistance. If you can't close the lever all the way, however, then it's too tight, and you should back it off.

    This link could be helpful for you.
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    Senior Member SweetLou's Avatar
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    According to Sheldon (pbuh), you don't need any of the axle in the dropouts.

  5. #5
    fishologist cohophysh's Avatar
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    thanks for the responses. so my question is (still) how much of the axle needs to be in the front/rear drop out?
    We cannot solve problems with the same level of consciousness that created them. A.E.

    1990 Diamond Back MTB
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    www.cohocyclist.blogspot.com
    http://www.loopd.com/members/cohocyclist/Default.aspx



  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    Do you mean how far the wheels should be inserted into the drop outs? For the front, you should just be able to drop the wheel in all the way, right?

    From what I've heard about the back wheel, for indexed shifting at least, optimum shifting is achieved when the rear axle is vertically aligned over the derailleur pivot point, but there are definitely more qualified opinions out there than mine. This is what I've been following for my 10 speed cassette road bike. I'm not sure how that carries over to other types of bikes.
    "I was racing after him at 55 km/h, and he took a minute off me."
    ---Boonen on Cancellara with 15 km to go at Flanders 2010

  7. #7
    fishologist cohophysh's Avatar
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    Let me go take a picture
    We cannot solve problems with the same level of consciousness that created them. A.E.

    1990 Diamond Back MTB
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  8. #8
    Senior Member SweetLou's Avatar
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    You didn't like my answer?

  9. #9
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    I assume you mean how much of the axle end should engage the drop outs.
    Typically, a QR axle is 11 MM longer than the drop out spacing, so 5.5MM would be standard.
    You want the axle "just under" flush, or else it won't be well secured by the QR.
    As long as you have a "bit" of axle protrusion to locate the wheel, you are good.

  10. #10
    fishologist cohophysh's Avatar
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    yes, how much axle should engage in the drop out. See the pix, is this to short, if so, can I get a longer axle? these are ultegras and sorry for the lame pix

    We cannot solve problems with the same level of consciousness that created them. A.E.

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  11. #11
    fishologist cohophysh's Avatar
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    you can see that the axle only engages 1/2 of the drop out
    We cannot solve problems with the same level of consciousness that created them. A.E.

    1990 Diamond Back MTB
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    www.cohocyclist.blogspot.com
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  12. #12
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    looks fine

    some dropouts are thicker, some thinner...

  13. #13
    fishologist cohophysh's Avatar
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    thanks, I feel better now
    We cannot solve problems with the same level of consciousness that created them. A.E.

    1990 Diamond Back MTB
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    www.cohocyclist.blogspot.com
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  14. #14
    Senior Member mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cohophysh View Post
    thanks for the responses. so my question is (still) how much of the axle needs to be in the front/rear drop out?
    Seat the axle as far into the dropout as you can get it. Don't worry if it doesn't seat all the way to the back of the dropouts. Just make sure that the wheel is straight to the frame.
    Mike

  15. #15
    Senior Member SweetLou's Avatar
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    cohophysh, you didn't answer my question. I did answer you. You don't need any axle in the dropouts.

  16. #16
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    Half of the axle is fine. Both my bikes are like that.

  17. #17
    fishologist cohophysh's Avatar
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    SweetLou,
    of course I liked your answer
    We cannot solve problems with the same level of consciousness that created them. A.E.

    1990 Diamond Back MTB
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    www.cohocyclist.blogspot.com
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  18. #18
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    According to Sheldon (pbuh), you don't need any of the axle in the dropouts.
    When did he say that?

  19. #19
    THIS SPACE FOR RENT
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark9950 View Post
    When did he say that?
    He had a fixed gear with a QR hub and a vertical dropout, with the axle ground flush to the lock nut there was enough room to tension the chain by moving the QR skewer back in the dropout.
    "I don't buy new frames, it just encourages them."

    -T.G.

  20. #20
    Pleasurable Pain greyghost_6's Avatar
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    Of course there needs to be "axle" in the dropouts, if you didn't the hub would slide right on through. What you meant to say (which makes Sheldon look like a fool) was that there doesn't need to be any "axle" STICKING OUT of the dropouts, looking like its a bolt on. Sheldon or some other reputable source I once read said any less than 2.5mm in the dropout is too little, and should roughly be 5. And no more than 1 sticking out past the dropouts (some skewers allow for some stick outed ness )
    I had to re-learn how to walk once, but never needed to re-learn how to ride a bike. Cyclist for life.

  21. #21
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    Criminy, lets put this thread to rest; Sheldon Brown did say:

    Quote Originally Posted by http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#vertical
    I used a more drastic solution: on my Bianchi Osprey. I cut the rear axle short so that it didsn't protrude past the surfaces of the locknuts. Thus, only the quick-release skewer went through the dropouts. Since the skewer is quite a bit thinner than the actual axle, this gives me considerably more adjustment room.

    If the skewer is properly tightened, the axle is held in place by the friction of the locknuts being pressed against the inside of the dropouts. If this were not the case, horizontal dropouts would not be usable, since the forward pull on the chain creates a larger force against the axle than supporting the rider's weight does. Just to be on the safe side, I carried a spare skewer along with my spare tube.

    I rode that setup for a couple of years with no problems, but later got a deal on a Bianchi B.a.S.S. purpose-built singlespeed frame that fits me better, is notably lighter and has horizontal track-type fork ends, so I'm no longer using that setup.
    Personally, I'd want something in the dropout, even if it's like a half mm--if only to make sure it's seated square (that's one advantage to vertical dropouts anyway).
    Last edited by JiveTurkey; 05-11-08 at 01:06 AM.

  22. #22
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by greyghost_6 View Post
    Of course there needs to be "axle" in the dropouts, if you didn't the hub would slide right on through.
    +1

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