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  1. #1
    A Little Bent Hammertoe's Avatar
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    Changing Out Ultra Torque Bearings..

    I have had problems with my Record drivetrain from the beginning. There has been a clicking and what felt like a flat spot or chain jumping when pedaling. I have changed out the cassette, the chain, pedals, tightened, disassembled and re-tightened many times. The problem would go away for a bit but has always returned...

    On my 80 mile ride yesterday the problem settled into a click on every pedal rotation. When the drive side crank was in the 1:00 position. It would happen for many rotations skip one or two then right back to it. There was no pattern. Quite annoying for 3+ hours...

    The last time I disassembled the drivetrain I noticed the drive side bearing was not smooth. There seemed to be a spot where it caught and was rough. I regreased the bearing but it did not help...

    So my next step is to replace the bearing...

    I looked for some information on how to do this but came up empty. Any special tools needed. Any suggestions on new bearings...

    Thanks...

  2. #2
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    It is a Creak noise??? like when u have the bb lose or something? If thats the problem probably are the darn Quick Releases, are old. Put some oil in the QR mechanism or put new ones, I have a super old mavic one, i put those and problem solved. The funny part is that with steel niether with AL bikes this happens.

    Regarding of how to take the bearings out, u need a a puller, I have seen them at ebay. WOnder if another car bearing puller will do the job, probably it will. The only problem is that i have no idea how to put them back. I imagine they need to be HAMMERED in using a plastic tube or something similar. I have seen the problem u mention in the bearings , one super smooth and the other kind'a rough but all runs fine.

    Good luck

  3. #3
    don't try this at home. rm -rf's Avatar
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    Oops--this is wrong. These have external bearings, so they are easy to replace. No puller is needed.
    See the Campagnolo installation pdf.

    I have FSA bearings and cranks, but they are similar. The bearings are pressed into the cups that unscrew from the frame. I think you usually buy a new set of cups with the bearings already installed. Otherwise, you need a $100 tool to press the bearings out of the cups.

    It sounds like you have the tool to unscrew the cups already?
    Last edited by rm -rf; 05-12-08 at 09:09 AM.

  4. #4
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    German tool maker "Cyclus Tools" has several special tools for removing and inserting bearings in UT "bottom brackets". See page 7:

    http://www.ra-co.de/Downloads/Cyclus Tools 2008.pdf

    They are expensive shop tools however, so since the Campagnolo UT bottom brackets are so cheap why not replace the whole unit instead of just the bearings.
    Of course, there may be cheap tools out there that does the job but I haven't seen them.

    --
    Regards

  5. #5
    don't try this at home. rm -rf's Avatar
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    Wait-- I was wrong. The bearings are attached to the spindle, not the cups.

    Have you seen the Park Tools page?

  6. #6
    A Little Bent Hammertoe's Avatar
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    Yes, bearings on the spindle...

    I have identified the tool to get the bearings off, now I need to know how to get on a new set and whether this is something I want to try to a Record crank...

  7. #7
    Senior Member tzracer's Avatar
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    Campy UT cranks have the bearings pressed onto the crank halves, not in the BB (that is why the BB are so cheap). The instructions for the crank say to let a dealer due the replacing due to the needed tools. I did not look at mine very closely before installation, but you might be able to use a bearing separator or a bearing puller (protect the end ot the crank).

    Installation can be accomplished with a correct diameter piece of tubing (I prefer using metal, but I have seen plastic used), it must push on the inner race, not the outer race. Make sure the crank halves are properly supported so no force is exerted on the crank arms.

    The above tool link appears to have the proper tools, but they are a bit pricey.

    If you do not have any/much experience removing/installing bearings of the type used, take it to your dealer. Trying to use the wrong tool could easily damage the crank.

    Might want to check if this would be covered under warranty.
    2007 Waterford
    BF-STL-00078

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tzracer View Post
    Might want to check if this would be covered under warranty.
    Campy has a 3 year warranty on their components but there may be a lot of exclusions and warranty claims have to go through a dealer. It's worth checking but don't expect too much or fast service.

  9. #9
    1 Serving Per Container awiner's Avatar
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    The bearings are only sealed on one side of each bearing. They probably left the other seal out to reduce drag.

    I pulled mine off last month and replaced them. I used a small puller that I have owned for many years and pressed them back on in a vice using some nylon formers I made the fit the spindle and crank arm end.

    If you don't have the right tools you will mess something up. If you need details or pictures PM me and I will try to steer you in the right direction.

    With the proper tools it is a 10 minute job.

  10. #10
    A Little Bent Hammertoe's Avatar
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    tzracer and awiner...

    Spot on with your advice. Thanks a lot...

    How would you support the cranks and protect the crank arms...

    Could I use a rubber mallet to seat the bearing...

    I should not have cross posted...

  11. #11
    Senior Member tzracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertoe View Post
    tzracer and awiner...

    Spot on with your advice. Thanks a lot...

    How would you support the cranks and protect the crank arms...

    Could I use a rubber mallet to seat the bearing...

    I should not have cross posted...
    Pressing on the bearings would be preferred. Large vise will work. But I have used hammers to install bearings, just make sure you are hitting the correct race or you will ruin the bearing.

    The easiest would be a soft dowel that would fit inside the hollow shaft and seat against the bottom. Wood or plastic should work fine. Should not require much force to seat the bearing.
    2007 Waterford
    BF-STL-00078

  12. #12
    A little North of Hell
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    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    XXXI

  13. #13
    A Little Bent Hammertoe's Avatar
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    Thank You Mr. Sampler...

    I think I can handle this operation...

    How would you get the blocking ring out? With the same extractor?

  14. #14
    Senior Member tzracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertoe View Post
    Thank You Mr. Sampler...

    I think I can handle this operation...

    How would you get the blocking ring out? With the same extractor?
    The blocking ring is a type of snap ring. If you look carefully, you can see a small groove. The ring fits into the groove, preventing the bearing from moving. Do not try to force this with a bearing puller. I would try a snap ring pliers first. If this does not work, I have removed this type with a couple small flat blade screw drivers.
    2007 Waterford
    BF-STL-00078

  15. #15
    1 Serving Per Container awiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertoe View Post
    Thank You Mr. Sampler...

    I think I can handle this operation...

    How would you get the blocking ring out? With the same extractor?
    I used a small screwdriver to remove the ring. The retaining ring is like a snap ring with a dove tail at one side to get a small tip screw driver under.

  16. #16
    Mr. Dopolina Bob Dopolina's Avatar
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    Getting the bearings off is the difficult part.

    The interference on the press fit is very low so installing them is easy by comparison.

    Try a PARK CRS-1 headset tool. Most shops have them. Works like a charm. Not need to wail away on the bearings, either. Just tap them into place.

    Hillrider;

    There is new staff at Campagnolo NA. Things should improve soon. PM me if you want contact info for the Service Center Mgr.

    EDIT: +1000 on the Cyclus tools. It's what I am using. Absolutely brilliant. They have some great Campagnolo hub bearing tools, too. I don't know if they have a distributor in the US. PM me for contact details (shop guys) if you're interested.
    Last edited by Bob Dopolina; 05-13-08 at 01:24 AM.
    BLOG of BOB: Old Guy Racer
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  17. #17
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    www.biketoolsetc.com have a lot of the Cyclus tools. Contact Larry there. He is very helpful.

  18. #18
    A Little Bent Hammertoe's Avatar
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    I could not justify $299.00 for a tool I will use only a few times...

    I purchased this. Hopefully it is not a POS...

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Campagnolo-Ultra...QQcmdZViewItem

    And these bearings...

    http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-VCRC-Ceramic...QQcmdZViewItem

    I think I will be able to do this. It seems pretty straight forward...

    I do feel like that guy on the TV commercial getting coached for an appendectomy by his surgeon over the phone...
    Last edited by Hammertoe; 05-13-08 at 06:52 AM.

  19. #19
    A Little Bent Hammertoe's Avatar
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    OK...

    I got the drive side bearing off and it was pretty easy with the proper bearing extractor...



    Now for the non-drive side...

    There does not seem to be a snap ring and there is a rubber seal on the crank side...

    It seems difficult to get the arms of the extractor under the rubber seal and I do not want to rip that or try and extract without taking of an unseen snap ring...



    Then I need to press the bearings...

    I need to find a PVC pipe or such that only hits the inner race...

  20. #20
    A Little Bent Hammertoe's Avatar
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    I got the nondrive side bearing off by lifting the rubber seal with a small screwdriver...

    There was no snap ring on the nondrive side???

    Came off easy with the puller...


    Now I can't wait to press the new bearings and get the Cervelo RS built up...

  21. #21
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    waiting for the news

  22. #22
    A Little Bent Hammertoe's Avatar
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    No news for a while, I will let you know...

    I need to get the pipe to press the bearings and the one pipe I have for setting a crown race is too big

    Something called life will be getting in my way the next few days...

    Wife and kids. Love them but they just don't get this bike thing...

  23. #23
    1 Serving Per Container awiner's Avatar
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    Correct.. No snap ring on the non drive side. As you found out, the rubber seal is able to be pushed down a bit to get the jaws of the extractor under the bearing.

  24. #24
    A Little Bent Hammertoe's Avatar
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    SUCCESS!!!!

    Bearingectomy complete....

    I purchased a 12" copper plumbing pipe and steel bushing....

    The pipe just fit over the spindle and hit only the inner race but to be safe I put a steel bushing over the bearing to protect it...

    I put the bearing on the spindle then the bushing and pipe...

    The pipe side down on a 2 x 4 board on a concrete floor, then hit the crank with a rubber mallet...

    I was soft on the mallet and kept the blows centered on the spindle...

    The bearing seated itself well on the drive side beacuse there appears to be a stop. Snap ring back on and done...

    The non-drive side is difficult to tell when the bearing is fully seated but I think I got it...

    Installed the cranks and oooooooo so smooth...

    With the right tools and know how this was a pretty easy procedure...

    Now to build up the bike and see if that damn clicking is gone....


    A BIG thanks to BF Mechanics for all the help!!!
    Last edited by Hammertoe; 05-21-08 at 06:26 PM.

  25. #25
    bannned steaktaco's Avatar
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    Uhm... I know it's too late. But is there any chance the clicking is the crank rubbing on your derailleur cage? Cuz that happened to me. There was a tight spot when free-rotating the cranks, and a minor click, and it turned out to be the rub.

    Happened to two bikes actually.
    steaktaco.com <-- poohoopsies.


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