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  1. #1
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    Frayed Cable End

    Hi all. I have a very frayed cable end (rear derailleur). Is there any way to pull the frayed bits back together and pop a cable end thingo on it to keep it tight? Does one just twist them all together and try to get one of those thingos on the end - and then compress the thingo with a plier? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Junior Member ExpressMech4130's Avatar
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    If the individual wires that make up the cable aren't bent you can get away with twisting them together and then put a crimp/thingo on the end if you don't have either solder works good as an awesome alternative. If the wires are bent then buy a new one, they're like 2 bucks and simple to replace.

  3. #3
    40 something and counting forensicchemist's Avatar
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    I've never been able to get solder to work....what type of solder have you been successful with?

  4. #4
    Senior Member Akadis's Avatar
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    To solder get the strands oil free and shiny by scrubbing with strong laundry detergent using a wire brush. Rinse & dry, apply liquid flux. Get soldering iron very hot, melt solder on to the cable end and rotate soldering iron around the cable long enough for the strands to get hot enough to bond with the solder. Scrub with bi-carb of soda to neutralize any remaining flux because it is corrosive.

    Another way - use plumbers' silver solder, easy-flow flux, and a gas torch.

    And another - use an arc welder; clamp the ground about 1/2" from the end, make sure all the strands are together, touch the end with the stick for a brief flash. All the cable between the clamp and the flash will get red hot from the current flow making that bit of cable soft and bendy and no longer as strong as the original, but there will be a neat little blob on the end holding all the strands together.

    I have used all the above and they have all been a bit hit and miss. Practise on scrap cable first.

    That's why those little crimp caps are so popular!

  5. #5
    www.theheadbadge.com cudak888's Avatar
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    Cheap galvanized cable seems to respond quite well to most solders in my experience. Stainless, on the other hand, will not.

    -Kurt

  6. #6
    Senior Member JTGraphics's Avatar
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    I use silver solder for my cables I also apply before cutting, apply liquid flux get it hot and it will flow on nicely, I also take a damp cloth and as soon it goes on wipe it clean while hot and it will be nice and smooth.
    It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
    http://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm

  7. #7
    Senior Member capwater's Avatar
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    Wrap it with a bit of duct tape, same general color. If it really bugs you just replace the cable. Only about $3, then crimp on the cable condom for a clean fit.

  8. #8
    Amateur Hack
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    heat shrink tubing. I usually let the tubing extend a little past the end of the cable.

  9. #9
    Senior Member MudPie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTGraphics View Post
    I use silver solder for my cables I also apply before cutting, apply liquid flux get it hot and it will flow on nicely, I also take a damp cloth and as soon it goes on wipe it clean while hot and it will be nice and smooth.
    Yup, went thru a few solder types and found silver solder (6% silver) works on stainless cables. Seems that any kind of solder works on non-stainless steel cables. The soldered look is sweet.

  10. #10
    Old Schwinn rider...
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    Quote Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
    Cheap galvanized cable seems to respond quite well to most solders in my experience. Stainless, on the other hand, will not.

    -Kurt
    If you use ACID FLUX on the stainless it'll work. That's what I use for tying and soldering spokes.

    http://www.superiorflux.com/sold_soft.html

  11. #11
    1 Serving Per Container awiner's Avatar
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    The other reason to soldier is if you need to disassemble, the ends pass through the casings very easy with no issues and then can be installed as such.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Coyote2's Avatar
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    A little dab of epoxy works fine, too.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Billy Bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coyote2 View Post
    A little dab of epoxy works fine, too.
    Or a little dab of one its cousins, JBWeld. It's even metal-colored.

  14. #14
    back in the saddle bent-not-broken's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _dhan_ View Post
    heat shrink tubing. I usually let the tubing extend a little past the end of the cable.
    +1 good alternative for a frayed cable.
    Bent

    When the earth is covered with 2/3's beer, then I'll buy bottled water!

  15. #15
    www.theheadbadge.com cudak888's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by btl68 View Post
    If you use ACID FLUX on the stainless it'll work. That's what I use for tying and soldering spokes.

    http://www.superiorflux.com/sold_soft.html
    Thanks for the tip - I'll get some of that.

    -Kurt

  16. #16
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    Cable condom. So that's what it's called! I like the heat shrink tubing idea, seems like the easiest way to deal with the issue and get a nice end going.

  17. #17
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    You can just twist them together and put one of them things on but it cud be quite hard

  18. #18
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    I put on a used spoke nipple instead of the cable condom. Our local bike co-ops' floors are littered with them.

  19. #19
    Old Schwinn rider...
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    Quote Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
    Thanks for the tip - I'll get some of that.

    -Kurt
    I have been using Harris Stay Clean brand of acid flux for years now. I found it in a hobby store (trains, planes and RC cars).

    Ebay has it now and then...

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Stay-Clean-Liqui...2em118Q2el1247

    http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/c...les/fluxes.asp

    A 4 ounce bottle will last the normal person virtually forever.

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