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  1. #1
    Just Pedaling
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    Need help with proper chain length

    I have assembled all the parts neccessary to complete the bike then came the chain. I bought me a chain tool for my 10 speed campy chain but i don't know how long the chain would be. I am using a 53/39 chaining and a 12-25 cassette with a short cage record derailleur. Can anyone tell me what the right chain length would be and how will i be able to determine if i have the right chain length?

  2. #2
    Senior Member leilin's Avatar
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    wrap the chain to large ring in the front and large sproket in the back plus two more chain link, that is the length of your chain

  3. #3
    Mr. Cellophane RainmanP's Avatar
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    Do this just around the cogs, without running the chain through the rear der.
    If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    Park Tools website has several formulae for working this out.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Chain length

    See http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/...inlength.shtml
    Remember to account for the master link, or extra links on the Campy system.

  6. #6
    60mph in the 42 ring! Dave Stohler's Avatar
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    If you don't know enough to size a chain properly, you don't know enough about building a bike to do it properly, especially for campy 10-speed stuff. At the very least, take it to a bike shop and have them check if you did it right.
    Cycling Addict
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    (techinical questions gladly answered via AIM)

  7. #7
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    I do the big/big +2 thing then I take some white out and mark the link.

    I then run the chain through the derailleur and hold the two ends together with a bent spoke (bent into a u-shape) and put it into big/big again. I check to see how much tension is on the rear derailleur. If it's pulled too tight, I add a link.

    I then, carefully shift and move the chain with my hands into the small/small combo. If the chain is too long, the chain will drag around the bottom jockey pully and accross the upper pulley. If this happens I remove a link.

    Between the two, it's better to have a chain one link too long then one link too short. You should never cross-chain your drivetrain anyways, but if you do get into the big/big combo with a "too short" chain, you could damage your rear derailleur.

    L8R
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  8. #8
    Senior Member royalflash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Stohler
    If you don't know enough to size a chain properly, you don't know enough about building a bike to do it properly, especially for campy 10-speed stuff. At the very least, take it to a bike shop and have them check if you did it right.
    so basically what you are saying is that if he doesnt know already then he doesnt know enought to know. If this is the way you answer technial questions I wouldnt bother.

  9. #9
    My own worst nightmare
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    Quote Originally Posted by royalflash
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Stohler
    If you don't know enough to size a chain properly, you don't know enough about building a bike to do it properly, especially for campy 10-speed stuff. At the very least, take it to a bike shop and have them check if you did it right.
    so basically what you are saying is that if he doesnt know already then he doesnt know enought to know. If this is the way you answer technial questions I wouldnt bother.
    Don't you know? All bicycle mechanics are born with this knowledge; they've never had to ask such questions.

  10. #10
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
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    With 53-39 / 12-25 and a short-cage racing-style derailleur, you may be challenging your rear derailleur's take-up capacity (53+25-39-12=27 teeth). Ideally, you want the chain to be long enough to accommodate a shift into the 53/25 cross (which you solemnly swear never to use) safely and smoothly, but short enough not to sag severely in the 39/12 cross (which of course you also solemnly swear never to use). If you cannot achieve both objectives simultaneously, err towards excessive length, unless you trust yourself NEVER to attempt a large-large crosschain shift.

    I use a short-cage SunTour Cyclone II on the PKN-10, whose 48-45-34/13-23 gearing requires the derailleur's full rated 24-tooth wrap capacity. I have just a hint of chain slack in the 34/13 combo, and everything works very smoothly.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
    Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
    Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
    Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
    Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069

  11. #11
    invisible
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    Quote Originally Posted by royalflash
    so basically what you are saying is that if he doesnt know already then he doesnt know enought to know. If this is the way you answer technial questions I wouldnt bother.
    Please don't feed the trolls. Thanks!

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