Post a picture of your FD. The two most critical adjustment from that Park site is the height above the biggest chainring and the lateral rotation. You MUST get the outer cage as close to the chainring as possible without touching, I use a dime rather than their penny. And the rotation of the outer-cage IS NOT parallel to the chainring, but parallel to the CHAIN. Most bike-shops teach their employees the "parallel to chainring" technique because a lot of time, the chain is off the bike and this technique yields consistent results. But it yields consistently mediocre results, if not downright poor and non-functional.
Post a picture of your FD from the side and from above, we'll see if it's a positioning problem. Only when you have the FD positioned correctly can you move on to making cable-tension and limit-screw adjustments.
Also it helps moving the chainring from small-to-big if you bend the tip of the inner cage outwards a little. Newer Shimano FDs have a built-in bubble that does this same function. Bending older flat-cage FDs improves their performance.