Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-08-08, 08:31 PM   #1
hillsbreakme
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
BB replacement trouble

Hello all, I'm taking my 10 year old Nishiki and upgrading some parts to bring it up to date and extend it's life (I'm also cheap). I'm starting with the bottom bracket and crankset, but I've already run into a problem. I want to replace the existing open cups/bearings unit with a sealed one, but when I opened the shell I found this screw sticking out, which holds the plastic cable guide in place. Is a sealed BB going to fit with that screw there? The plastic tab looks to be about 1/4 inch, I was thinking of putting in a shorter screw and hope the new BB has 1/4" clearance. Has anybody done this?

Also, I understand the fixed cup is a pain to get off because it's really tight. Does the fixed side unscrew by turning left to right (clockwise)?. Thank you.


hillsbreakme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-08, 09:02 PM   #2
Cannondaler
Senior Member
 
Cannondaler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Atlantic Beach, FL
Bikes: Cannondale F600sl, Windsor Falkirk Carbon
Posts: 205
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
You don't even really need the screw, the plastic tabs and the pressure from the cable should keep it in place.
Cannondaler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-08, 09:52 PM   #3
Jeff Wills
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
 
Jeff Wills's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Bikes:
Posts: 7,912
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cannondaler View Post
You don't even really need the screw, the plastic tabs and the pressure from the cable should keep it in place.
Ditto- but it is kind of nice to have it stay in place. If it's really freaking you out, back the screw out until it's flush with the inside of the BB. It won't move since the cables hold it in place and the screw locates the guide.

The fixed (right) cup on an English BB is left-hand threaded. Loose-ball BB cups are on pretty tight- I usually end up whacking the spanner with a rubber mallet to get it to loosen. Be careful and watch your fingers!
__________________
Jeff Wills

Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-08, 11:02 PM   #4
FasterthanU
Member
 
FasterthanU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Port Townsend, WA
Bikes: Voodoo Wazoo, Raleigh Supercourse, Others
Posts: 35
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
You can remove the screw and use double sided adhesive tape under the cable guide. A smaller screw also works. I have done both successfully. -FTU
FasterthanU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-08, 11:04 PM   #5
Russ
Fish'r wish'r
 
Russ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Near Seattle
Bikes: Homebuilt (vintage mtb frame)
Posts: 212
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I have a similar screw on my bike, but it's a threaded machine screw and it only protrudes a few millimeters inside the BB shell. You might just cut/grind off your screw so it's shorter. There's actually quite a bit of space between the shell and a sealed BB (perhaps 3/8").

Regarding the fixed cup - I had a heck of time getting mine off (spanner kept slipping), so I used the method described in Sheldon's website - clamp the fixed cup in a bench vice and rotate the frame. The hardest part of that is keeping the frame level - works better with two people. Make absolutely sure you're turning it the right way - with a flashlight, look inside the BB and you should be able to see the threads so you'll know for sure. Failing that, your LBS has some special equipment that will get it off.
Russ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-08, 11:32 PM   #6
cizzlak
Senior Member
 
cizzlak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SE Wisconsin
Bikes: 1994 Trek 1200, 1984 Raleigh Prestige, 1980 Motobecane Grand Jubile, custom 531 track, and a bunch of tinker bikes of all type
Posts: 280
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ View Post
I have a similar screw on my bike, but it's a threaded machine screw and it only protrudes a few millimeters inside the BB shell. You might just cut/grind off your screw so it's shorter. There's actually quite a bit of space between the shell and a sealed BB (perhaps 3/8").
yeah that thing looks like a wood screw, OP, probably not original anyway. either cut it down, remove it, or go to the hardware store and find a short little machine screw with matching threading and replace it. its your bike, its your call. we wont tell
cizzlak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-08, 05:45 AM   #7
capwater
Senior Member
 
capwater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quahog, RI
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Posts: 1,509
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Shorter screw or try this. Remove the screw during the BB install process, then put it back afterwards. Most sealed unit BBs are fatter towards the ends and might not clear the screw, but towards the center offer more clearance.
capwater is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:09 PM.