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  1. #1
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    What does 16 x 622 - 700c mean??? I just got a Puch Luzern and it needs new tires

    So I just got a Puch Luzern (that's been modified - upright handlebars and higher seat) ... but it's a lot of fun to ride, espcially because it still has all its orginal other parts. It is so light and quick, but the front tire doesn't hold air too well and I can't figure out what kind of tires I can replace them with. This is what is written on the rims: 16x622-700c (made in Belgium) ... Can anybody please give me links to websites where I can purchase wheels for this bike. I just checked out Sheldon Brown, but I am new at this so I am not quite sure what I am reading. I was also wondering whether I can put a kind of cyclocross tires on it or whether I should stick to road tires.

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    16 x 622 - 700c.....this is the tire size. 622 is the diameter of the wheel and 700c is just a common name for that diameter. 16 is the width of the tire itself. on these wheels you MUST get a 622 - 700c tire, but you may get a different diameter if youd like. 16 is very small, most roadies use around 23-25c and cyclocross uses no less than 28-30c. if you are riding on the street dont get cyclocross tires, there will be too much rolling resistance and road tires grip just fine, even in rain. also if the width is too big it may hit the brakes or chainstays.

    i would reccommend getting a 700c (622) x 23c road tire. most people ride this size and it will fit your bike.

    In my experience, continental makes the most durable tires and vrederstein makes really supple but still durable ones. continental gatorskins are pretty standard if you want a tire that will last a very long time...

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  4. #4
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    Thank you so much Fatigoworld!!! That helped alot.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatigoworld View Post
    16 x 622 - 700c.....this is the tire size. 622 is the diameter of the wheel and 700c is just a common name for that diameter. 16 is the width of the tire itself. on these wheels you MUST get a 622 - 700c tire, but you may get a different diameter if youd like. 16 is very small, most roadies use around 23-25c and cyclocross uses no less than 28-30c.

    A minor correction: 622x16 is the RIM SIZE. You can check out a chart of which tires will fit here. Personally, I enjoy 28x700C tires (on the road). A historical note: 700 refers to the nominal rolling diameter of the tire that would be added to the wheel.

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    right, except that since tires come in so many sizes, 700 now means virtually nothing. tire sizing is pretty complicated and hypocritical, save yourself the headache and get some 700c gatorskins.....link above

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatigoworld View Post
    700 now means virtually nothing.
    WTF does this mean?
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  8. #8
    Senior Member c_m_shooter's Avatar
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    It means that the 700c designation only aplies to the original size tire that was used on the rim. 622mm is the diameter of the rim, the 700c doesn't mean a thing.
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    Thanks everyone, I did go out and get the continental unltra gatorskins 700 x 23 c -- however, I am having a hell of a time trying to get it on the bloody wheel. Finally, I got it on but then I managed to puncture the inner tube in the process. Any advice on how to do this? Also, I was thinking maybe the 23c is a little too narrow - do you think the 28c would be better for riding around in the city. This is not a racing bike it is an altered bike with upright handlebars, although it still has the Shimano 600 and everything else on it that would make it a racing bike. Oh, and getting the old tires off was a *****! I had to cut through steel, because of course as a newbie I messed up trying to get the tire off. The second one went easier. The tires on it originally were Specialized Touring 700 x 28C. Any help would be appreciated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikkewyn1974 View Post
    Thanks everyone, I did go out and get the continental unltra gatorskins 700 x 23 c -- however, I am having a hell of a time trying to get it on the bloody wheel. Finally, I got it on but then I managed to puncture the inner tube in the process.
    I hear you. You do I have a set of tire levers right? That is the only way to get on NEW tires like that. Once they are used a bit you can do it by hand. As for the inner tube, put a little air in it and be mindful to keep it out of the interface between the tire and the rim.
    Last edited by Tabor; 06-22-08 at 12:14 PM.

  11. #11
    Prefers Cicero cooker's Avatar
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    I can usually remount tires by hand, but mine are slightly fatter touring tires and I understand racing tires and rims can sometimes be extremely tight. To avoid pinching the tube, add just enough air to give it some shape and inspect it all around the rim to make sure it is inside the tire and rim before you remount the tire bead. Also the tube has a reinforced area around the base of the stem. Push the stem partway inwards and make sure that the reinforced section is inside both the tire and rim. If you have to use tire levers to finish remounting the bead, make sure the tips are rounded and smooth and that you don't catch and pinch the tube. The last part of the bead to go into the rim should be well away from the stem of the tube. Once the tire is in place, pull the stem out. Look at the sidewall of the tire all around the rim to make sure it is even, so the bead is sitting exactly where it should.

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