bratan

I accidentally (well actually LBS sales guy gave me wrong one) got tube that is specified up to 27 x 1 1/8, while my tire is 27 x 1 1/4. Tube is just a little bit smaller in width, is it still ok to use it? I already installed it but didn't inflate all the way, wanted to check here first...

jacksbike

Yes there is no problem using a 1 1/8 tube in a 1 1/4 tire.

bikeman715

yes it is OK. almost all of 27x1 1/4 tubes are mark for 27 1 1/8 to 27 1 1/4 size .

awc380

It's fine if you don't mind your bike bursting into flames, I suppose...

bratan

Ok thanks
Normally yeah they marked like this, but this one was marked UP TO 1/8 (something like 27 1 to 27 1 1/8)

Joshua A.C. New

awc is right. Mismatched tube/tire is the leading cause of bicycle fires.

Oldpeddaller

I thought bikes only caught fire if the handlebar tape was loose - now I find that inner tubes inflated by 1/8" are the main cause - does anyone know where I can find a Fire Extinguisher that will fit into a bottle cage?

smurf hunter

I actually heard a sales person at performancebike say "if you run a smaller tube, then the rubber is stretched thinner, increasing the risk of puncture".

I have to call BS

It may correct from a engineering perspective, but I wonder in practice, if going down a size in tube has any measurable reduction in flat resistance. I run Schwalbe Marathons on my daily rider, so I wouldn't know

bratan

Well it wasn't ok On the first test ride, after a few minutes as I was going down the hill tire came off (I heard it) and a second or 2 later tube blew up... I was lucky not to crash (it was rear wheel). And I didn't even inflate it too much (around 65 psi). Maybe this is because of the tire, it's brand new. This is a second tube that blows up on this wheel. First one was correct size and I inflated it to around 75 PSI (tire rated for 100) and it blew up just few minutes after I put it on the floor (didn't even ride it). I also had new rim tape installed because old one deteriorated.

dabac

Glad to hear that you didn't crash, but that must have been coincidental - there's no way running a slightly smaller tube would have contributed to that.

Well if the tire comes off there are several things that might puncture a tire, it might simply blow itself apart through unrestricted expansion, or puncture through being squeezed between rim and road surface.

I don't think that would have been critical either, but running low pressures has its risks. Low pressures might allow the tire to rotate around the rim, which can cause the valve stem to tear loose from the tube.

Are you sure you've got the right size? Every time (not that there are that many) I've managed to get a tire to come off accidentally there has always been an easily identified reason. Once the bead broke, once it was a collapsing sidewall on a badly worn rim, once I was cornering too hard on a seriously underinflated tire.

Do you mean that the tire also got damaged, or that the tube just punctured while sitting there? I suppose it is possible to get bad ones occasionally, but something like that calls for a thorough inspection of the rim.
Only time I can think of something similar happening to me was when a bike that'd been pumped in the cool shade had a tube burst after being left out in the sun. The added pressure and a less than perfect rim tape cooperated to cause a flat.

Joshua A.C. New

If the tire is coming off, that's bad news. It sounds like underinflating may have made it so it couldn't stay seated. 75psi on a 100psi tire is pretty much "flat".

due ruote 

I agree. This doesn't sound like a tube problem. The 1" tube should be plenty to keep that tire on the rim if it's properly mounted and inflated. If you don't believe me, inflate a loose 1" tube to 80 or 90# pressure and see what it looks like.

Al1943

1) If the tire is rated at 100 psi, you need to put close to 100 psi. Use more pressure for a heavy load, less for a lighter load. Underinflation is the most common cause of tire/tube failures.

2) A tire blowing off the rim is commonly due to improper installation.

3) The smaller tube was not the problem.

Al

Joshua A.C. New

Well, you couldn't do that. It would burst way before it got up to pressure without the tire there to hold it together, probably having expanded to a giant puffy donut (at 20 psi) first. But your point remains: the volume of the tube far exceeds the volume of the inside of the tire.

The problem here was either an underinflation or something wrong with the tire or rim. Since the tube was underinflated, I'm gonna guess that.

Whatsisname

Yeah i'd go with underinflation. For a 100psi tire you should be rocking at least 90-95 psi.

due ruote 

Granted, I might have been exaggerating. Still, your comment sounds like a challenge, and with July 4th coming up...

Joshua A.C. New

i Challenge You!!!!!

J T CUNNINGHAM

Are these "HOOK RIMS"?

Regards,
J T

Bill Kapaun

+1
Just because the tire says 100 PSI doesn't mean the rims are capable.
This is a problem with old 27" rims. Some are straight wall instead of a "hook edge".

https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ho-z.html#hook

I "think" some tires are specified for "hook edge" rims only.
Houston, I think we have a mismatch!

bratan

I don't think these are Hook Rims. This is an old 197x Fuji Bike. Tire didn't break, it still intact but it did come off. I didn't inflate it high because I read here about issues with older 27" wheels. That and the fact that when I first put new tire and tube on the front wheel it also blew up (it was pumped to around 80-90 PSI) while wheel wasn't even attached to the bike. It could've been me damaging it with tire levers. Second tube on front wheel held. So now it's something wrong with rear wheel. As I mentioned I put new rim tape which was just a tad short and wider than original tape. And as I was riding it just before it blew up it felt like bike was going up and down (felt like wheel was a little bit oval). I appreciate any suggestions I could get here, thank you guys for helping me out. Here are some pics of the rim:

Sekine

Houston, we have a problem. Notably, those are not "hook edged rims" or, as you'll often see them called, clincher rims. My recommendation? Just get some new wheels. If your brakes have the reach, go for a 700c wheel, as that'll greatly expand your upgrade options. Just FYI, if you want to do that, your brake pads need to be able to be adjusted 4mm towards the hub. If they're adjusted all the way there already, then no 700c for you.

due ruote 

I have a no-hook front on an errand bike. It has an IRC Road Winner II inflated to about 75# and not a bit of trouble. No doubt that hook bead rims are a big improvement, but folks did ride these things back in the day and they didn't all crash and burn.

bratan

Thanks A.Winthrop! I did pull the valve all the way out, that must be what's causing the problem. I'll try again tonight. This time I'll do what you described...
As for getting new rims, no way. It's a POS rusty bike I got for $50. I've already spent too much time and money on it. At this point I just want to fix it and get rid of it If I had a time machine, I would just go back and hit myself on the head for even thinking of buying this... Two weeks after I got this bike, I found an excellent condition 1981 Panasonic Sport Dx on local garage sale for $40...

cbchess

its your rims for sure - but it also looks like your rim tape is so thick and too wide it is not helping your cause either.
get new wheels or a new(used) bike!

get some thinner/ narrower rim tape - I have even used the string reinforced packing tape for weight saving or in a pinch.

bratan

Can I use old tube instead of the rim tape? (cut thin long strip and glue it together)