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  1. #1
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    Brake pad angle - "toeing"?

    I got those old center pull style brakes and just got new front pads. They squeak.

    I heard somewhere that you are supposed to angle them so the front of the pads touch first opposed to the back which is what I currently got.

    Except... how do you change the angle of the pads?

  2. #2
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
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    use a adjustable wrench and bent the calipers where the brakes are mount to. and doing so should give you the angle you need.

  3. #3
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    I've always used a piece of the packet they came in.

    Essentially fit the new break blocks (this assumes you are not using cartridges) and leave them loose then rip a strip of the card that they came in fold it so that you have a double layer and slide this under the back end of the break pad, then squeeze the breaks to hold it in place as you tighten the bolt (once it is firm you will want to let the break off and hold the pad to stop it rotating but you should have your toe in by then).

    Should give you about 1 mm of extra clearance at the rear (heel) of the pad, there's your toe in.

    Hope that helps, it's always worked well for me.

    PS - with cartridge brakes the same applies only you slide in the new break pad then loosen the whole break block (cartridge and holder).

  4. #4
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orbital57 View Post
    I've always used a piece of the packet they came in.

    Essentially fit the new break blocks (this assumes you are not using cartridges) and leave them loose then rip a strip of the card that they came in fold it so that you have a double layer and slide this under the back end of the break pad, then squeeze the breaks to hold it in place as you tighten the bolt (once it is firm you will want to let the break off and hold the pad to stop it rotating but you should have your toe in by then).

    Should give you about 1 mm of extra clearance at the rear (heel) of the pad, there's your toe in.

    Hope that helps, it's always worked well for me.

    PS - with cartridge brakes the same applies only you slide in the new break pad then loosen the whole break block (cartridge and holder).
    That's exactly what I do as well. But this only works for pad or pad holders that have cup and ball washers or cup and ball shapes in the holder/back. The old stuff didn't always have this option for setting the angle the pad is held at and you may need to break out the big ugly adjustable and start bending stuff.

    Another option if you're using these old non adjustable pads and your arms are the slotted flat style arms is to buy pads intended for V or linear brakes. Those come with two sets of ball and cup washers for each pad and this allows the angles to be set just as Orbital describes in the quote.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  5. #5
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    It's better to get pads with the domed washers so you don't have to continually bend your brake-caliper arms as the pads wear in. Aside from weakening the aluminium, when you put in new pads, you'll end up with a huge 1/4" gap at the rear. There was a post with a picture like that somewhere... Bending back aluminium in the opposite direction that much will certainly snap it.

    The easier and less damaging way to get toe-in is just to sand off a little of the rear of the pad. About 2-3 seconds on a grinder is all that's needed. If you look at a lot of performance racecar brake-pads like Pagids, you'll see that it has this bevel pre-cut into the pads.
    Last edited by DannoXYZ; 07-09-08 at 03:26 AM.

  6. #6
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    Yeah, the 'manually bending parts' solution doesn't do it for me. I'd rather have them squeak than start bending 35 year old parts.

    And, no, there is no ball/washer cup thingies at all. Danno's suggestion of sanding down the pads sounds the best to me.

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orbital57 View Post
    I've always used a piece of the packet they came in.

    Essentially fit the new break blocks (this assumes you are not using cartridges) and leave them loose then rip a strip of the card that they came in fold it so that you have a double layer and slide this under the back end of the break pad, then squeeze the breaks to hold it in place as you tighten the bolt (once it is firm you will want to let the break off and hold the pad to stop it rotating but you should have your toe in by then).

    Should give you about 1 mm of extra clearance at the rear (heel) of the pad, there's your toe in.

    Hope that helps, it's always worked well for me.

    PS - with cartridge brakes the same applies only you slide in the new break pad then loosen the whole break block (cartridge and holder).
    It's Brake.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  8. #8
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    Dammit! I blame dyslexia, that was a stupid mistake even for me!

  9. #9
    free mallocs
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    It's Brake.
    Depends how much you bend the arm.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Thumpic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ascend View Post
    Depends how much you bend the arm.


    Quote Originally Posted by ISaacG View Post
    Yeah, the 'manually bending parts' solution doesn't do it for me. I'd rather have them squeak than start bending 35 year old parts
    That has never sounded like a good idea to me either..............your asking for trouble when bending ancient aluminum.......

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