Good winter bike - fixie vs. single speed w/ coaster brakes?
07-12-08, 01:46 AM
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Good winter bike - fixie vs. single speed w/ coaster brakes?
I want to already prepare for the winter by buying a bike that has very simplistic operation, so that it is easy to maintain (since winter is hard on bikes) and also will still work when it's below freezing (I dont want derailers and brakes frozen in place).
I've thought about it and I'm having a hard time seeing the difference between a fixie or a single speed with coaster brakes, when it comes to braking. It seems to me that the single speed with coasters would accomplish the same as a fixie, and also have the advantage of coasting. Is there anything that I'm missing here?
Also, would it be wise to use a road bike for this project? I wouldn't mind having a fast fixie for spring, fall, summer, as well. However, if road bikes take a worse beating in the winter time or wipe-out more easily than a hybrid, then I may reconsider. I have little experience riding with snow/ice on the ground.
I've thought about it and I'm having a hard time seeing the difference between a fixie or a single speed with coaster brakes, when it comes to braking. It seems to me that the single speed with coasters would accomplish the same as a fixie, and also have the advantage of coasting. Is there anything that I'm missing here?
Also, would it be wise to use a road bike for this project? I wouldn't mind having a fast fixie for spring, fall, summer, as well. However, if road bikes take a worse beating in the winter time or wipe-out more easily than a hybrid, then I may reconsider. I have little experience riding with snow/ice on the ground.
07-12-08, 03:19 AM
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A fixie has a principal advantage of a lesser amount of moving parts, but I'd go with the SS anyhow. Unless someone has gone completely crazy with the grease gun a SS should remain functional well below freezing, and it's sealed well enough.
What I see as a big advantage for the SS is that if you see spot that looks really slippery it's easy to take a foot of the pedal(landing gear out!) and coast through it.
Coaster brake would primarily be advantageous due to price, accessibility and maintenance requirements. Drum brakes are almost as low maintenance, and these days quite a few people are running discs year round w/o any significant trouble.
Whether to start with a roadie or a hybrid is in one sense pretty much a moot point. One could argue that a hybrid is likely to have a more robust frame, and would because of that be able to withstand more corrosion before becoming considerably weakened.(assuming the same material in both frames).
What you relly need to be looking at is the amount of exposed components, and if you're thinking of replacing the rear hub anyhow it's pretty much a dead race.
The hybrid might come with discs, which would be an advantage over a racer's rim brakes.
You need to consider dropout width, a road frame is likely to be set for an O.L.D. of 130 mm, and I don't think I've seen any coaster brake hub with that measurement. Steel frames can be cold set, so should be a manageable issue.
You might want to be able to run wider tires(perhaps even studded) than your average road frame can accept.
I prefer a more upright position on dodgy surfaces, but have a look at the CX crowd and you'll notice that it's apparently a voluntary requirement.
If you want a do-it-all bike, then look at the Shimano Alfine or similar(rohloff if you can afford it). You get a decent range of gears, can be fitted with discs, and if equipped with an enclosed gear case does very well in adverse weather.
What I see as a big advantage for the SS is that if you see spot that looks really slippery it's easy to take a foot of the pedal(landing gear out!) and coast through it.
Coaster brake would primarily be advantageous due to price, accessibility and maintenance requirements. Drum brakes are almost as low maintenance, and these days quite a few people are running discs year round w/o any significant trouble.
Whether to start with a roadie or a hybrid is in one sense pretty much a moot point. One could argue that a hybrid is likely to have a more robust frame, and would because of that be able to withstand more corrosion before becoming considerably weakened.(assuming the same material in both frames).
What you relly need to be looking at is the amount of exposed components, and if you're thinking of replacing the rear hub anyhow it's pretty much a dead race.
The hybrid might come with discs, which would be an advantage over a racer's rim brakes.
You need to consider dropout width, a road frame is likely to be set for an O.L.D. of 130 mm, and I don't think I've seen any coaster brake hub with that measurement. Steel frames can be cold set, so should be a manageable issue.
You might want to be able to run wider tires(perhaps even studded) than your average road frame can accept.
I prefer a more upright position on dodgy surfaces, but have a look at the CX crowd and you'll notice that it's apparently a voluntary requirement.
If you want a do-it-all bike, then look at the Shimano Alfine or similar(rohloff if you can afford it). You get a decent range of gears, can be fitted with discs, and if equipped with an enclosed gear case does very well in adverse weather.
07-12-08, 10:02 AM
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During my commuting days, I rode a variety of bikes during winter (Northern NY, -20F). These were typically single speed or fixed gear. Occasionally I ride a geared bike when there wasn't a preponderance of wet grimy junk on the roads.
My typical ride was my Peugeot conversion. Simple and effective. Easy to care for.
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This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
07-12-08, 10:46 AM
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dabac,
I heard it can be difficult fitting a rack onto a bike with disc brakes. Also, what is the cost of outfitting a bike with disk brakes and how much maintenance do they require?
Can either disc or drum breaks be added onto just about any wheel?
dobber,
I live in Minnesota. Last winter after a snow fall when it was cold, my cables were frozen on my cantilever brakes. Also all the slush on the rims didnt help either.
I heard it can be difficult fitting a rack onto a bike with disc brakes. Also, what is the cost of outfitting a bike with disk brakes and how much maintenance do they require?
Can either disc or drum breaks be added onto just about any wheel?
dobber,
I live in Minnesota. Last winter after a snow fall when it was cold, my cables were frozen on my cantilever brakes. Also all the slush on the rims didnt help either.
07-12-08, 10:53 AM
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One drawback to single-speed is wind. My Worksman cruiser is geared lower than normal cruisers (42:21 I think), but that helps with hills and wind, while knocking a little bit off the top end speed. A comfortable cruising speed is about 12-15 mph.
If you're using a single-speed with coaster brake, I can't think of much reason not to use a standard cruiser bike. A road bike is set up for higher speeds and steeper hills, but if you have high speeds, steep hills and ice, you don't want to be using a single-speed with coaster brake anyway.
If you're using a single-speed with coaster brake, I can't think of much reason not to use a standard cruiser bike. A road bike is set up for higher speeds and steeper hills, but if you have high speeds, steep hills and ice, you don't want to be using a single-speed with coaster brake anyway.
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07-12-08, 11:04 AM
#6
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You can't just fit a disc or drum brake to any old hub. For discs the hub has to be a disc compatible hub with the mounting points built in. For a drum brake or coaster setup you need to switch the entire hub and lace it to your rims or find a wheel with these options already built in.
It's not difficult fitting a rack to a disc bike. Just different. You can't just do it in 3 minutes with the supplied hardware. But finding a spacer or modifying the rack isn't that big a deal if you are at all handy and have access to a few tools and some imagination to visualize a solution.
Sounds more like a disc brake mountain bike is the way to go. Then you have more options for knobbies or studded tires to deal with the snow and ice for grip. And the disc brakes just work great in sloppy conditions. They still require attention just as any brake or other mechanical device will but that's part of sloppy weather biking. It's not harder to work with discs, just different. Many folks find it harder due to the transition and picking up the new skills.
But I have to admit that a single speed with coaster brake on the rear and a drum brake front hub would likely be a nice setup for super sloppy weather where ice can be an issue. The front drum still uses a cable but if you look into the sealed housing ferrules you may find one that works to help keep water out of the cable. And a custom made Cordura shield similar to the molded rubber ones used on off road motorcycles could help keep snow and ice out of the lever pivots.
But do check into the sizes you can get studded tires in and base your build on that. It sure sounds like you'll want them. Around here the ice is often near to melting and it's so slick it's like trying to ride on a freshly Zamboni'd ice rink. Those days I just give up and switch to the transit system or drive. But with deeply frozen ice and snow I know the grip is a lot different.
It's not difficult fitting a rack to a disc bike. Just different. You can't just do it in 3 minutes with the supplied hardware. But finding a spacer or modifying the rack isn't that big a deal if you are at all handy and have access to a few tools and some imagination to visualize a solution.
Sounds more like a disc brake mountain bike is the way to go. Then you have more options for knobbies or studded tires to deal with the snow and ice for grip. And the disc brakes just work great in sloppy conditions. They still require attention just as any brake or other mechanical device will but that's part of sloppy weather biking. It's not harder to work with discs, just different. Many folks find it harder due to the transition and picking up the new skills.
But I have to admit that a single speed with coaster brake on the rear and a drum brake front hub would likely be a nice setup for super sloppy weather where ice can be an issue. The front drum still uses a cable but if you look into the sealed housing ferrules you may find one that works to help keep water out of the cable. And a custom made Cordura shield similar to the molded rubber ones used on off road motorcycles could help keep snow and ice out of the lever pivots.
But do check into the sizes you can get studded tires in and base your build on that. It sure sounds like you'll want them. Around here the ice is often near to melting and it's so slick it's like trying to ride on a freshly Zamboni'd ice rink. Those days I just give up and switch to the transit system or drive. But with deeply frozen ice and snow I know the grip is a lot different.
07-12-08, 02:40 PM
#7
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Best winter bike I ever had was a 3 spd. Three gears so it would get me through any terrain, essentially maintenance free except for oiling the hub a couple of times a year. Fenders to keep the rain and snow off me.
Steel rims made the brakes weak in the wet, but Koolstop brake pads give ok braking, better than a coaster brake.
Steel rims made the brakes weak in the wet, but Koolstop brake pads give ok braking, better than a coaster brake.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
07-12-08, 03:09 PM
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Depends on what you already got. Cambriabike is selling the very decent avid bb / 7 for 40$/50$ a piece. Wheels 140$/pair. If youe fork hasn't got the fittings a new one is 70$. If your frame hasn't it gets a bit more awkward, but there are adapters to be had.
Drums have an advantage in your case, they don't need special brackets welded to the frame, their reaction arms can be secured by clasps.
