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  1. #1
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    Cassette on too tight?

    When I replaced my cassette for my bike just now I held the chain puller in place and grabbed the wrench and tightened it pretty good. I later was told that you want to make sure that it isn't too tight. Why is this? And how do you tell if it's on there too tight or not?

  2. #2
    t0t4l n00b theShiba's Avatar
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    Because if you get it too tight, you are never getting it off again. You'll notice that it tightens in the direction you pedal, so it will tighten over time as you ride it. It should be snug, but no need to go crazy with it.

    I'm sure someone has a torque rating on it...

  3. #3
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    Shiba, he said cassette, not freewheel. Different animals....

    You noticed that it had those "teeth" that cogged over while you tightened? They seem to go on easier than they come off. But it's on there now so you may as well leave it..... er... you DID put some grease on the nut threads, right? If so it'll come off fine. No point in worrying about it now unless you dialed it on so hard that it's squshing the plastic cassette spacers.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

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    Yes, I saw the teeth, and no I didn't put any grease on. :/ whoops

  5. #5
    t0t4l n00b theShiba's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    Shiba, he said cassette, not freewheel. Different animals....

    You noticed that it had those "teeth" that cogged over while you tightened? They seem to go on easier than they come off. But it's on there now so you may as well leave it..... er... you DID put some grease on the nut threads, right? If so it'll come off fine. No point in worrying about it now unless you dialed it on so hard that it's squshing the plastic cassette spacers.
    My bad... That's what happens when I read BF at 12am...

  6. #6
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    BTW, you don't need a "chain puller" (aka chain whip) to install a lock ring, just to remove one.

  7. #7
    Banana seat Captain Slow's Avatar
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    Here's a too-tight cassette lockring removal tip, just in case. It'll save some knuckle skin, and keep a few $ out of the swear jar:

    Get a big O/D washer with I/D that will just fit the skewer axle. You''re looking for a washer that's bigger than the cassette lockring tool. Lowe's has 'em. something like 15 cents ea.

    Fit the cassette lockring removal tool into place, and then run the skewer through the hub. Place the washer on top of the lockring removal tool.

    Adjust the skewer so there's just a few mm of slack.

    Use an open end wrench on the lockring removal tool, while holding the cassette with the chainwhip.

    The skewer and big washer should allow the lockring removal tool to turn (eventually... eat some spinach)
    while preventing it from slipping out of the lockring.

    Once you have the lockring loose, just remove the skewer and proceed to swap the cassette.

  8. #8
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    I've removed very tight lockrings by clamping the remover tool in place with the qr skewer and then inverting the wheel and clamping the remover tool flats in a bench vise. The chainwhip itself is then used to loosen the ring.

    BTW, I once ran into a lock ring that was so tight (and possibly rusted in place) that I broke two chainwhips and never got it off. The only way to salvage the rim and hub was to remove the axle and the freehub body with the old cassette still in place and fit a new freehub body.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    BTW, you don't need a "chain puller" (aka chain whip) to install a lock ring, just to remove one.
    hmmm, well i ended up using it anyway. I guess maybe I didnt need to use it to hold it in place, but I did anyway?

  10. #10
    Fred-ish rogerstg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pannierpacker View Post
    hmmm, well i ended up using it anyway. I guess maybe I didnt need to use it to hold it in place, but I did anyway?
    In that case it's probably not on too tight since the chain whip slips under pressure when going the wrong way (based on the direction of the cog teeth)

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