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Old 07-31-08, 05:48 PM   #1
ShadowGray
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What kind of cassette/free wheel is this?

Can someone identify the type of freewheel or cassette this is, and if I have the proper tools to remove it. I have this tool kit:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...slisearch=true
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Includes the following tools: chain tool, integrated Bottom bracket wrench adapter, double bit Philips/Flat head screwdriver, 6-piece hex wrench set (2/2.5/3/4/5/6mm), chainring bolt wrench/crankarm dust cover tool, Flat head screwdriver, 8mm hex wrench with driver, 2-piece tire lever set, 15mm pedal wrench with 14/15mm socket wrench, sprocket removal tool, integrated bottom bracket wrench, cassette lockring tool, 2-piece cone wrench set (2 x 13/14/15/16mm), 3-sided spoke wrench, crank extractor, cartridge bottom bracket tool, T-25 torx wrench, patch kit
And if I do... how do I remove it?

And these are pictures of the sprockets:


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Old 07-31-08, 06:46 PM   #2
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Hyperglide 6-speed freewheel. http://www.bikepro.com/products/freewheels/shimfw.html
Don't try to order anything from BikePro. They've been dead for years.
Don't see a freewheel remover on your tool list.
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Old 07-31-08, 06:56 PM   #3
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The Performance tool kit doesn't include the freewheel (not cassette) removal tool you need. However they are commonly available and not very expensive. The one you need is the Park FR-1 and Performance has them for $7. Your LBS probably has them for about the same cost.
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Old 07-31-08, 07:23 PM   #4
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And you'll need a big-ass adjustable-wrench or open-end wrench to use on the freewheel tool. Something with 18" handle works best.
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Old 07-31-08, 07:27 PM   #5
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And you'll need a big-ass adjustable-wrench or open-end wrench to use on the freewheel tool. Something with 18" handle works best.
Indeed, the bigger the better. Also, clamp the removal tool in place with the quick release skewer first. However, be sure to loosen the skewer nut as soon as the freewheel breaks loose.

Actually, these Shimano removal tools aren't as bad about popping loose under load as the old 2 and 4-prong Sun Tour removers but holding them in place with the qr is still a good precaution.
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Old 07-31-08, 07:42 PM   #6
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Well, I have a 10" adjustable wrench and a mallet, will that do?
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Old 07-31-08, 08:12 PM   #7
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On a side note, can I install the performance single-speed conversion kit on this? I notice the cog has splines... will they still go on the threads?

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...slisearch=true
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Old 07-31-08, 08:13 PM   #8
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Well, I have a 10" adjustable wrench and a mallet, will that do?
Might not do the job. All the rust in those pics is not a good omen.
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Old 07-31-08, 08:25 PM   #9
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Better than a big***** wrench would be:

Attach the freewheel tool, secured with the QR.
Clamp the tool (facing down) in a bench vice.
Turn the WHEEL counterclockwise till it pops free.
Loosen QR to allow more loosening of the freewheel.
A wrench might finish it off at this time.
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Old 07-31-08, 08:26 PM   #10
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That one actually has an external lockring, doesn't it? Weird...
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Old 07-31-08, 08:35 PM   #11
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That one actually has an external lockring, doesn't it? Weird...
The wheel? Or the kit?

@ flian: the only vice I have is the one at the lab.. and definitely not enough clearance for a wheel. Would be nice though!
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Old 07-31-08, 09:59 PM   #12
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So does anyone know if the kit cogs will work on the threaded hub? The cogs have splines on them... would they thread on? I need to know before I spend $7 on the freewheel remover if I could've just kept the cassette and use the tensioner on top of that.
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Old 07-31-08, 11:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowGray View Post
So does anyone know if the kit cogs will work on the threaded hub? The cogs have splines on them... would they thread on? I need to know before I spend $7 on the freewheel remover if I could've just kept the cassette and use the tensioner on top of that.
No. The dimensions of the splines are different. Once you get the freewheel off, though, you can use any "single" freewheel:

commonly available at BMX shops. You will probably have to rearrange the spacers on the hub to make the chainline come out right. Once you've done that, you'll need to redish the wheel to center the rim.
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Old 08-01-08, 12:18 AM   #14
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If you get a bmx freewheel
get one with the bigger 34mm hole
as modern bmxs use a 30mm threaded hole.

also the chain you have will be 3/32" wide.
most single speed freewheels are 1/8" wide.
so you would have to change your chain too.
which you should do anyway.
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Old 08-01-08, 01:42 AM   #15
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That one actually has an external lockring, doesn't it? Weird...
The locking holds the cogs onto the freewheel. That's due to the alignment of the teeth necessary for Hyperglide shifting. A spin-on top-cog will be unpredictable on it's exact position when tightened, so it's a slip-on top-cog with lockring.
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Old 08-01-08, 07:14 AM   #16
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Just buy a 3/32" single freewheel. They're not hard to find. It seems silly to me to use a 1/8" chain since they're no stronger, just heavier and they can be noisy on 3/32" chainrings.
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