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  1. #1
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    First chain change. Grinding noise?

    I changed my chain for the first time, I made sure I made the derailer verticle had it on the big ring in the front and small ring in the back. I pushed the pin in correctly and lubed it up. Does it just take time to break in the new chain, or did I do something terribly wrong?
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  2. #2
    cab horn
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    Chain sizing is big big + 1 link.

    Anyways, the best person to answer this question is yourself. Inspect the bike on the stand and backpedal. Localize the noise and you've found your problem.

    All we can offer is vague and irrelevant speculation since you've given us so little information.
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  3. #3
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    I just counted the links on my previous chain that the shop put on. It had 112 links. and I currently have 116. Is there a way to rebreak the chain or do I have to buy a new one?
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  4. #4
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    You can add in the chain just fine. If it's a Shimano chain just get one of the new assembly snap off pins and install as per instructions. If it's a chain with a master link you have two options. One is to get another master link to join in the new segment. The other is to try using the chain tool to push a pin out most of the way and then push it back in again to join in the new segment. If you do it this way a nice job is quite possible but you want to watch now the pin is pushing back in. If it seems like it's getting cockeyed release the pressure and recenter the push pin on the chain pin so you can push the pin in as inline as you can make it. Otherwise you risk bruising and deforming the plates and it make not hold the pin well enough and you're looking at a future chain failure if it's not done well. It's not hard to do, you just need to use some attention and be quite critical with doing it right.

    You'll need to push it through the other plate just a hair extra. And I do mean a hair. Then turn it around and give it just a hair of a push so the exposed ends of the pushed in pin are even with all the other exposed ends on both sides. The link should be easy to move now just like the others.
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  5. #5
    slow as I ever was Ex Pres's Avatar
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    Make sure that you have the chain running correctly through the rear derailleur's jockey wheels (pulleys). It's easy to run the chain outside of the cage between these wheels. You can still pedal but it's not very quiet.
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    You normally have to cut (break, actually) a new chain to length; that's why you should always save the old one.
    Ideally, your new one should be the same length as the old one.

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    Yup you guys were right it rubs on the rear derailer. How do I adjust it? I have the chain running through the derailer right where it goes on the right of the first pulley and the left of the other one then it goes underneath. Do I need to loosen the pulleys?
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  8. #8
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    wait i didn't put it inside of one of the parts and its touching. Long story short I need to re break it. Does it matter where I break it and if so whats the proper procedure?
    Life is short, focus on the things that do matter in life and don't forget the rest.

  9. #9
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    I'm embarrased to say that I recently did the same thing and it took me about 5 minutes to see what I'd done. Don't we feel silly...

    If it's a chain without a master it doesn't matter. Although if it's a Shimano chain they say not to push out a joiner pin twice. Still, that gives you a lot of options before the whole chain is all joiner pins. I believe the ends of the joiner pins are black. Or look on the backside for the snapped off end remains and avoid that one. If it's just regular pins then pick one. Your odds of doing the one you already did are about 112 or so to 1 after all.....
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

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