rear wheel moving to the left under torque? Please help
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rear wheel moving to the left under torque? Please help
Hi Guys...
99 specialized allez alum frame and my rear wheel is a mavic open pro on an ultegra hub...
So I set the wheel and skewer on the stays.....and under high torque like a simulated sprint or climbing out of the saddle...it tends to make my wheel move to the left..inching the tire closer to the left hand stay. One or two times it even started to rub on the left stay.
Next time I went ahead and tightened the skewer a little (alot) more.... It hasnt rubbed again...but if I set the wheel perfect between the two stays it still pulls the tire closer to the left stay than I like to see. Is this just the hub moving back into its normal position? Maybe it naturally sits a little closer to the left one? I guess I never really noticed the attitude of the rear wheel in terms on centering until it rubbed on me.
Note: Not sure of this matters but ive been using those E3 carbon/titanium skewers (grabbed em on sale at performance), but they are actually kinda flimsy. Maybe if I switch back to the beefier ultegra ones this will be solved?
It just sucks because im the type of rider where if I have a potential problem like this ill worry about it while riding instead of concentrating on my ride.
Thanks in advance!
99 specialized allez alum frame and my rear wheel is a mavic open pro on an ultegra hub...
So I set the wheel and skewer on the stays.....and under high torque like a simulated sprint or climbing out of the saddle...it tends to make my wheel move to the left..inching the tire closer to the left hand stay. One or two times it even started to rub on the left stay.
Next time I went ahead and tightened the skewer a little (alot) more.... It hasnt rubbed again...but if I set the wheel perfect between the two stays it still pulls the tire closer to the left stay than I like to see. Is this just the hub moving back into its normal position? Maybe it naturally sits a little closer to the left one? I guess I never really noticed the attitude of the rear wheel in terms on centering until it rubbed on me.
Note: Not sure of this matters but ive been using those E3 carbon/titanium skewers (grabbed em on sale at performance), but they are actually kinda flimsy. Maybe if I switch back to the beefier ultegra ones this will be solved?
It just sucks because im the type of rider where if I have a potential problem like this ill worry about it while riding instead of concentrating on my ride.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by heyguys; 08-13-08 at 04:31 AM.
#2
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1) Stop using low quality boutique QR with external cams - this is pretty much everything that isn't shimano since they have a patent
2) Get a good AL Shimano QR, should set you back maybe $8.
There are other things to check besides this if your wheel is slipping forward under load but you should try the QR swap first to see if it helps. Then get back to us if you are stiill having problems.
2) Get a good AL Shimano QR, should set you back maybe $8.
There are other things to check besides this if your wheel is slipping forward under load but you should try the QR swap first to see if it helps. Then get back to us if you are stiill having problems.
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Stock reply to an issue like this would be:
1) get rid of any blingy outside-cam, weight-weenie skewer and use an internal cam, non-blingy good quality steel skewer instead. The more boring they look the more reliable they tend to be.
2) grind/scrape an paint off the dropouts until the CR and the locknuts are gripping against bare metal.
3) have a look at both locknuts outside face and skewer inside face, make sure that the serrations hasn't worn down.
1) get rid of any blingy outside-cam, weight-weenie skewer and use an internal cam, non-blingy good quality steel skewer instead. The more boring they look the more reliable they tend to be.
2) grind/scrape an paint off the dropouts until the CR and the locknuts are gripping against bare metal.
3) have a look at both locknuts outside face and skewer inside face, make sure that the serrations hasn't worn down.
#4
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Bikes: 99 Specialized Allez - full ultegra SL, open pro/ultegra, fsa wing pro compact, selle smp stratos, cane creek s2, forte axis pro carbon fork, 3T pro stem
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1) Stop using low quality boutique QR with external cams - this is pretty much everything that isn't shimano since they have a patent
2) Get a good AL Shimano QR, should set you back maybe $8.
There are other things to check besides this if your wheel is slipping forward under load but you should try the QR swap first to see if it helps. Then get back to us if you are stiill having problems.
2) Get a good AL Shimano QR, should set you back maybe $8.
There are other things to check besides this if your wheel is slipping forward under load but you should try the QR swap first to see if it helps. Then get back to us if you are stiill having problems.
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Stock reply to an issue like this would be:
1) get rid of any blingy outside-cam, weight-weenie skewer and use an internal cam, non-blingy good quality steel skewer instead. The more boring they look the more reliable they tend to be.
2) grind/scrape an paint off the dropouts until the CR and the locknuts are gripping against bare metal.
3) have a look at both locknuts outside face and skewer inside face, make sure that the serrations hasn't worn down.
1) get rid of any blingy outside-cam, weight-weenie skewer and use an internal cam, non-blingy good quality steel skewer instead. The more boring they look the more reliable they tend to be.
2) grind/scrape an paint off the dropouts until the CR and the locknuts are gripping against bare metal.
3) have a look at both locknuts outside face and skewer inside face, make sure that the serrations hasn't worn down.
#6
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Bikes: 99 Specialized Allez - full ultegra SL, open pro/ultegra, fsa wing pro compact, selle smp stratos, cane creek s2, forte axis pro carbon fork, 3T pro stem
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the wheel didnt move at all with the ultegra skewer......thanks to ebay someone else can learn this same lesson.