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  1. #1
    meb
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    Threaded Stem with threadless headset

    A coworker was wanting to raise his handlebars from the factory position. His bike has a 1 1/8 threadless headset. I suggested a stem rise or a stem with more rise to it. He also preferred more adjustment on height like on the quill stems. The thought subsequently occurred to me, one might use a quill stem with a threaded headset and get more rise than the 3-5 inches available from a stem riser and get some more adjustment. That would leave only the single collar holding the fork to the frame-I presume the stem is a backup against the collar failure so wasn't sure if one could safely operate a threadless headset with a quill stem. Anyone one know if that is feasible.
    Last edited by meb; 08-21-08 at 05:02 AM.

  2. #2
    In beaurocratic limbo urbanknight's Avatar
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    I don't see how you could properly tighten the headset with a quill stem and no compression plug or star nut. Sorry. They do make adjustable threadless stems, however.

    "Well, I guess you can cut the arts as much as you want... Sooner or later, these kids aren't going to have anything to read or write about." (Richard Dreyfus as Glenn Holland)

  3. #3
    meb
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    Quote Originally Posted by urbanknight View Post
    I don't see how you could properly tighten the headset with a quill stem and no compression plug or star nut. Sorry. They do make adjustable threadless stems, however.

    Yeah I mentioned the comfort type stems as also providing adjustment.

    I think he was wanting the up-down adjustment with a turn of the wrench rather than the arcuate adjustment available on the comfort bike stems.

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    In beaurocratic limbo urbanknight's Avatar
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    Well, the only way to get that with a threadless headset is to have an extra long steerer and a series of spacers, then remove the stem and spacers and adjust the headset each time he adjusts it.
    "Well, I guess you can cut the arts as much as you want... Sooner or later, these kids aren't going to have anything to read or write about." (Richard Dreyfus as Glenn Holland)

  5. #5
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by urbanknight View Post
    Well, the only way to get that with a threadless headset is to have an extra long steerer and a series of spacers, then remove the stem and spacers and adjust the headset each time he adjusts it.
    Problem solves makes a collar that allows you to mess with the height setting for a stem withotu having to readjust the headset each time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator View Post
    Problem solves makes a collar that allows you to mess with the height setting for a stem withotu having to readjust the headset each time.
    Or, you can just do this (scroll down to "Threadless Without Spacers"). I do this when I'm working on bike fit with folks.
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    Senior Member 04jtb's Avatar
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    Sheldon Brown may be able to help here:

    The Thorn has a Reynolds 531 steel fork, 1 1/8" threadless. I installed a conventional threadless stem for the drop bars, but I omitted the usual "star fangled nut" in the steerer and the cap that usually goes on top of the stem. Instead, I installed a wedge-type quill stem into the hollow steerer. This is a stem with a 1 inch outside diameter, intended for use with a 1 1/8" threadless setup, but it was a good fit.
    http://sheldonbrown.org/thorn/index.html
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  8. #8
    Light Makes Right GV27's Avatar
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    Yeah, but Sheldon still had the threadless stem on there......

    You're buddy is screwed if he wants up and down adjustment on the road. That's one drawback of the threadless system. Of course it's far superior since Most People like to adjust their headset preload on the road rather than bar height on the road. I've never met this Most People guy but apparently he has a really hard time keeping his headset adjusted.

    Once upon a time I though the threadless system was an improvement - it IS easier to do the initial install - but have since realized it kinda sucks for your Average Joe after installation. You can save a couple of ounces having an aluminum or carbon steerer rather than steel and you get to do away with the locknut, but that's the only advantage against the big disadvantage of having very limited adjustability.

    Another idea would be to get a new fork and leave the steerer high with spacers above and below the stem - or that collar like Sheldon had - then juggle them.

    Chris

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    There are steerer extenders that raise the bars on a threadless headset. Here is a listing of one from Nashbar:

    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...%20ATB%20Stems

  10. #10
    meb
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    There are steerer extenders that raise the bars on a threadless headset. Here is a listing of one from Nashbar:

    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...%20ATB%20Stems
    Yeah I told him about those.

  11. #11
    meb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kotts View Post
    Or, you can just do this (scroll down to "Threadless Without Spacers"). I do this when I'm working on bike fit with folks.
    This is simlar to what I had in mind-the collar to hold the headset as was done with Sheldon except using a quill stem inside the theadless fork as an adjustment device.

  12. #12
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    Key to all this talk of a quill stem is that without the star nut and top cap there's no practical way to put the correct preload tension into the headset bearings. So it's just not practical to attempt such a conversion without more radical surgery. Your friend is pretty much stuck with the solutions posted so far and can forget about the quill stem option.
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