Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-21-08, 06:10 PM   #1
ghlenz
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2007
Bikes:
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
10sp chainring - 9sp crank shifting problems

I have an all 10sp triple Ultegra set up except my crank which is a 105 triple 9 speed. Model 5503 which is Octalink and 52-42-30 gears. It shifted OK at best to the Big ring. Immed and small went back and forth just fine. I had to set my FD as high as I could on the braze-on to clear the middle ring because the FD is a Ultegra 6603 designed for a 39t middle. I am also using an Ultegra Chain.

I decided to change the middle ring to a 39t Ultegra 10sp. I set my FD acording to the FD directions and I cannot get the chain to climb to the big ring. I also tried tightening and losening the cables, but did not get much better results.

Does the Ultegra 10sp 52t have different pick-ups to make a jump from 39 to 52? Or are the rings closer together? I know the rings on a 10sp are a bit thinner, but if that is it, they would still be the same distance apart.

If my only solution is to buy a 10sp Ultegra crank so be it, but I do not want to spend $ 175.00 if i can avoid it.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Greg
ghlenz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-08, 06:34 PM   #2
DMF 
Elitist Troglodyte
 
DMF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas
Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
Posts: 6,924
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Shimano locates the ramps and pins differently on different crank sets. In addition, the spacing between the rings is nominally the same between 9-spd and 10-spd, but like different groups within each generation the spider face plus the ring thickness (plus the odd spacer) determines the actual centerpoint. Mix groups or even models within groups and the spacing is not guaranteed.

You took the wrong option for improving shifting. Rather than change rings you should have changed dérailleurs.
__________________
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

- Will Rogers
DMF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-08, 08:19 AM   #3
cyccommute 
Mad bike riding scientist
 
cyccommute's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a black one, a red one, an orange one and a couple of titanium ones
Posts: 18,060
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF View Post
Shimano locates the ramps and pins differently on different crank sets. In addition, the spacing between the rings is nominally the same between 9-spd and 10-spd, but like different groups within each generation the spider face plus the ring thickness (plus the odd spacer) determines the actual centerpoint. Mix groups or even models within groups and the spacing is not guaranteed.

You took the wrong option for improving shifting. Rather than change rings you should have changed dérailleurs.
No need to change the derailer. This sounds like a cabling/stops issue. It shouldn't matter if what kind of derailer or rings the crank has, if you move the derailer far enough the chain has no where else to go but up onto the gear.

ghlenz,

Downshift the front to the small cog. This should be the lowest tension point on the cable. Check to see that the cable is taut. It should have a little play in it but not much. Now spin the crank and see where the derailer is positioned in relation to the inner cog. It should be positioned so that it doesn't rub when you are in the lowest gear in the back but just barely. If you have significant daylight between the chain and the inner plate on the derailer, you can fiddle with the low limit screws. You shouldn't have to move it very far.

Check the cable again. If it is loose, either adjust the slop with the barrel adjusters or reposition the cable.

Now shift outward to the big ring (in a middle range gear on the rear). If the derailer won't throw far enough to make the shift, you can fiddle with the high limit screw to move it outboard. Once you get it onto the big ring shift from the middle of the cassette to the high gear on the cassette. Check to see that you don't have chain rub on the outer plate and adjust the cable tightness and/or limit screw accordingly.

You may also want to check the crank on the spindle (perhaps before you go messing with the derailer) to make sure it is properly seated. If the bike shifted up to the big ring before, it should do so now.

Another thing to check (again perhaps before you go messing with the derailer) is the ring itself. You did reinstall it in the proper direction, didn't you? If the outer face is now the inner face, that could move it too far outboard.

Good luck.
__________________
Stuart Black
New! Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
New! Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
An Good Ol' Fashion Appalachian Butt Whoopin'.
cyccommute is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:47 PM.