Headset press [ Tool ]
 

HI , i am looking to buy a headset press tool , is there anyone who has 1 for sale . ?
thanks in advance
PM me
!!
Cheers T

A long bolt, two nuts and a couple of big washers work really well.

Look at Nashbar's site. They sell a good tool under their own name (not as pretty as the Pedro's, but works great) and often have it on sale. Right now it is going for $60.

[QUOTE=San Rensho;7346367]QUOTE]

I 2nd that. I use a 3/4" x 1'-0 piece of threaded rod with two heavy hex nuts and washers. Cost about $10 at a Fastenal. It works quite well. A thinner rod would work but it might be harder to keep it straight.

I got the big bolt, four washers and a nut from Home Depot for $5. Certainly does a much better job than beating the parts in with a 2x4 and hammer like I used to do.

If you do make one yourself, grab more then a few washers since they are weak. I had to run to the hardware store a couple of times to learn that lesson.

can you post pictures of what this looks like and how you use it? Thanks!

Never done it myself but I think these are the sort of diy setups people are using.

http://www.mindspring.com/~d.g1/headset.html

http://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/20...placement.html

Block of wood method

http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/headset2.htm

....
i tihnk ill skip on the bolt set up ..
and i dont think i would use a hammer on my vintage steel bikes to pop in the cups ..
i would sure check out the nashbar site , but unfortunatly they dont ship internationaly :(
//T

Why? The "official" headset tools are nothing more than big bolts and washers. Even Dave Moulton himself, who've built up millions of frames from scratch uses big bolts and washers:

http://bp0.blogger.com/_SZx2oaxuJSA/...0/Headset2.jpg

Yea, I remember seeing an "official" Park Tool one somewhere that was just a threaded rod with two sturdy washer and two threaded bars as handles - like ginormous winged nuts. I think it is discontinued now.

It is the HHP-3.

Big washers for the outside pushers and some smaller washers drilled or filed out that fit down into the cups as centering collars. The last bit with the centering washers that fit down into the cups or up into the lower headset opening take the worry out of any offcenter force.

With the addtion of the centering washers (you'll need a few various ones to suit all the possible occasions) the washer and allthread bolt system is just as good and accurate as anything you'll find from Park or anywhere else. A regular shop doing a lot of headset work wouldn't want to fumble around with all the washers but for a once or three times a year guy at home? It's just perfect....

If drilling 1/2 inch or similar holes in washers is out of the question then mark out and make the centering washers out of some thick plastic. Just mark out the sizes using a simiple compass and then drill and cut/sand to shape. We aren't talking machinists grade tolerances here. Anthing true to within a 1/32 inch is fine.

Sorry, had to do it

http://pro.corbis.com/images/CB06823...-a165c32d84a5}

Like Danno sez. The home made rigs accomplish the same thing using the same principles. I've put together several rigs using a home brew lash-up.

I have a $350 set of tools for pulling and installing automotive press fit wheel bearings (mostly FWD cars but they work for removing late Porsche 944 rear wheel bearings too, in case you cared, Danno:)). It's essentially a piece of threaded rod and big washers (with centering rings) to fit the various bearings and hubs. I think the thread rod and washer set up is more than adequate for headset installation.

If you want to know why I spent so much for the automotive tools, there's a lot more force being used and the tools are all hardened to allow for use with an impact wrench greatly reducing the time to remove and install bearings (not that I do it very often but the tools paid for themselves in one use). I'll probably use them for installing the headset cups on the new commuter I'm building (without the impact wrench of course).

I've had to use a 1000 lb*ft impact-wrench to undo the nut on those rear-hubs before... :)

just to let you boys know .
i searched and searched over the net and i found this tool , which i bought and received it 2 days ago . used it and it works very nice .
http://flickr.com/photos/28391408@N06/2826094104/

the total price was $71 shipped .
Now im happier :)

Cheers
//T

Big bolt
 

I just went to my local ACE Hardware man and got a big bolt, nut and washers. Worked great and they sold me the parts per pound = $3.00 total cost!

One refinement for the long bolt/all-thread rod and big washer crowd (that includes me, btw). Get a piece of thick leather and cut two circles the same size as the OD of the washers. Cut or drill a hole in the center of each the same size as the bolt or rod.

Place one of these leather disks on the inside face of each of the washers that contact the headset cups. The leather disks protect the edges of the headset cups from the hard washers and keep them from slipping off center.

I've installed both 1" and 1-1/8" threaded and threadless headsets in steel, Ti and Al frames using a 12" piece of 1/2" all-thread rod, two nuts, two BIG, thick 3/4" washers, two 1/2" washers outside of the 3/4" washers to distribute the load and my leather disks. Works as well as any commercial tool.

I just bought this set off of ebay. Basically, its a better (and more costly) version of the washer/threaded rod/nut that others are using. $25 on fleabay.

Whats wrong with a light touch, good eye, a block of wood, and a hammer?

If you are dealing with a steel frame and steel headset cups, go right ahead. If it's a carbon or light Al frame and an alloy cup headset, a lighter touch is recommended.

always nice when you have the proper tools to do the job correct .

AH! Ive never worked with anything but steel on steel. Makes sense. Thanks.