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  1. #1
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    Help with bottom bracket removal and stem removal

    What bottom bracket tools are needed for removal (see pics)? I bought the Park BBT-22, but that must be wrong.



    How about tips on removing this stem? I have tried banging out by the bolt, but no luck. Any suggestions?
    Last edited by joeyc; 08-30-08 at 05:43 PM.

  2. #2
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    The BBT-22 is used to install and remove cartridgebottom brackets, either square taper or Octalink/ISIS types.

    What you have is an older cup-and-cone bottom bracket and you need a "lockring tool" (Park's HCW-5) and a pin spanner (Park's SPA-6 or SPA-1) to remove the adjustable cup shown in the first photo and a "Fixed Cup" wrench (Park doesn't show one any more) to remove the cup in the lower photo.

    Since this bottom bracket is rather obsolete, it's probably not worth buying all of the tools to remove it. Have your bike shop take it out and get a cartridge bb that your BBT-22 is intended for.

    The expander in your stem is apparently rusted or corroded in place. Turn the bike over and drip a lot of penetrating oil into the lower end of the steerer tube and let it soak. Then, after a day or so, rap on the bolt with a mallet or pad it with a block of wood and use a hammer.

  3. #3
    cab horn
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post

    The expander in your stem is apparently rusted or corroded in place.
    Assuming the OP knows to drop the bolt before attempting to remove the stem.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  4. #4
    Senior Member curbtender's Avatar
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    I saw that. Put the wheel back on before you bang the bolt down.
    Last edited by curbtender; 08-30-08 at 06:23 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Oldpeddaller's Avatar
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    Nice frame! The BB is a simple cup bearing (non-cartridge) type. Worth keeping it if it's not too worn. First loosen the lock-ring on the left side with a peg spanner or if it's really stuck, CAREFULLY with a hammer and flat-ended punch. Use a peg spanner to release the left cup. Remove the bearings & spindle. Remove the right cup with a correctly sized large spanner or do what I do when they are tight. This is to clamp the flats of the cup in a bench vice and turn the frame firmly but carefully by hand to loosen the cup, which will then be able to be unscrewed by hand.

    To remove the stem, apply penetrating oil around the top edge and from underneath into the steerer tube. Leave it to work overniight. Use a piece of wood to protect the stem bolt, tap the bolt head sharply down with a hammer then twist the stem out using a pair of handlebars or broomstick etc. as a lever in the bar clamp of the stem. If it won't shift, remove the bolt completely and use a longer rod as a drift through the bolt hole to drive the expander out of the bottom of the stem. Then twist the stem out and retrieve the expander wedge afterwards by threading the bolt back into it and pulling - use the drift from below to move the wedge higher if needed.

    Good luck, the Woodrup will make a brilliant classic bike!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldpeddaller View Post
    Remove the right cup with a correctly sized large spanner or do what I do when they are tight. This is to clamp the flats of the cup in a bench vice and turn the frame firmly but carefully by hand to loosen the cup, which will then be able to be unscrewed by hand.
    Important note to the OP: If you decide to tackle this project yourself, your photo shows the bb is English threaded (BC 1.37 is engraved on the adjustable cup face). Therefore, the right side cup is LEFT-HAND threaded and must be turned the opposite way of usual to remove it. This is not obvious if the job is new to you.

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    Thanks HillRider. I guess I need to decide if I should reuse the BB, otherwise, like you said, the tools would be a waste.

    I will give your tip on the stem a try - and use the advice of putting the front wheel back in place.

    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    The BBT-22 is used to install and remove cartridgebottom brackets, either square taper or Octalink/ISIS types.

    What you have is an older cup-and-cone bottom bracket and you need a "lockring tool" (Park's HCW-5) and a pin spanner (Park's SPA-6 or SPA-1) to remove the adjustable cup shown in the first photo and a "Fixed Cup" wrench (Park doesn't show one any more) to remove the cup in the lower photo.

    Since this bottom bracket is rather obsolete, it's probably not worth buying all of the tools to remove it. Have your bike shop take it out and get a cartridge bb that your BBT-22 is intended for.

    The expander in your stem is apparently rusted or corroded in place. Turn the bike over and drip a lot of penetrating oil into the lower end of the steerer tube and let it soak. Then, after a day or so, rap on the bolt with a mallet or pad it with a block of wood and use a hammer.

  8. #8
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    I appreciate the detailed response on the BB removal. So do you think I should reuse the the BB. Another poster suggested replacing it with a more recent offering. No matter what, I will be using a nice Shimano 600 Group on the next frame - with or without the current BB.

    I wish I could keep the Woodrup frame. It looks great, and is soo smooth. Unfortunately, it is way too small for me. I have a Schwinn Circuit (Columbus SL) frame on the way that will get the 600 Group, Wolber wheelset, among other bits.

    This is my first time doing anything bike related beyond replacing tubes or tires. I may have gotten in a little over my head, but feel it is a great way to learn! Especially with the great help on the boards.

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldpeddaller View Post
    Nice frame! The BB is a simple cup bearing (non-cartridge) type. Worth keeping it if it's not too worn. First loosen the lock-ring on the left side with a peg spanner or if it's really stuck, CAREFULLY with a hammer and flat-ended punch. Use a peg spanner to release the left cup. Remove the bearings & spindle. Remove the right cup with a correctly sized large spanner or do what I do when they are tight. This is to clamp the flats of the cup in a bench vice and turn the frame firmly but carefully by hand to loosen the cup, which will then be able to be unscrewed by hand.

    To remove the stem, apply penetrating oil around the top edge and from underneath into the steerer tube. Leave it to work overniight. Use a piece of wood to protect the stem bolt, tap the bolt head sharply down with a hammer then twist the stem out using a pair of handlebars or broomstick etc. as a lever in the bar clamp of the stem. If it won't shift, remove the bolt completely and use a longer rod as a drift through the bolt hole to drive the expander out of the bottom of the stem. Then twist the stem out and retrieve the expander wedge afterwards by threading the bolt back into it and pulling - use the drift from below to move the wedge higher if needed.

    Good luck, the Woodrup will make a brilliant classic bike!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeyc View Post
    I appreciate the detailed response on the BB removal. So do you think I should reuse the the BB. Another poster suggested replacing it with a more recent offering. No matter what, I will be using a nice Shimano 600 Group on the next frame - with or without the current BB.
    Removing and inspecting the current bb is the only way to tell. If the ball races in both cups and on the spindle are smooth with no pits or chips, then the bb is certainly reusable.

    However, cartridge bottom brackets are inexpensive and so easy to install and maintain (basically you don't have to do any maintenance) that most riders just install one of them and replace it when it wears out. That can be a long time. I have Shimano cartridge bottom brackets still in service with 30,000+ miles.

  10. #10
    cab horn
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    105 Level shimano cart BB's are reatailing for $20-25. It's almost a no brainer for any old -> new bike
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  11. #11
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    Here are Park tools for the BB. The HCW4 has pin spanners on one end and the fixed cup hole on the other. The HCW5 has a headset wrench (32mm) on one end and the BB lock ring spanner on the other. Using a vise for the fixed cup is good, and other pin spanners look like tongs or the end of a coat hanger with bent tips. You'll have to decide if you can scrounge the tools or let the LBS do it.

    If the BB is in good condition, there is no problem with reusing it, but they are not sealed very well and can be tricky to adjust. One sealed replacement with a square axle is the Shimano UN-54, about $25. Beware the plastic cup, don't overtorque or it cracks. Test thread first, as you may need to chase or deepen the threads. This BB needs the Park BBT-2.

    If you bang on the stem bolt, yes, put the wheel back in and the fork back in the headset/lightly reassemble. Make sure the stem bolt is at least partially threaded into the wedge before putting a block of wood on it and whacking it with a hammer. Occasionally I have seen folks put handlebars back in, and straddling the wheel while twisting a bit to loosen the stem.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Litespeedlouie View Post
    .... One sealed replacement with a square axle is the Shimano UN-54, about $25...... This BB needs the Park BBT-2.
    The BBT-22 the OP purchased is just an update of the BBT-2 so it will fit these Shimano bottom brackets too.

  13. #13
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    I disagree about replacing older bb's with Shimano sealed cartridges. Yes the newer ones require very little or no maintenance and run very smoothly. But they can fail or get loose, in which case you cannot tighten the play in them. I personally prefer using the older bb's where one can pull them apart, clean, inspect, and regrease them.

  14. #14
    Senior Member curbtender's Avatar
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    Thats a pretty nice bike he's playing with. I'd spend 5 bucks to have a shop remove the BB. The money he saves on buying the tools would pay for the cartridge BB and he already has the tool to install.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksbike View Post
    I disagree about replacing older bb's with Shimano sealed cartridges. Yes the newer ones require very little or no maintenance and run very smoothly. But they can fail or get loose, in which case you cannot tighten the play in them. I personally prefer using the older bb's where one can pull them apart, clean, inspect, and regrease them.
    Cup-and-cone bottom brackets not only can fail, they do fail and usually at shorter intervals than cartridge bbs. They fail by developing pits and chips in the spindle and cup races. You don't just regrease or tighten them when that happens, you throw them away and buy a new one.

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    Great info here. I appreciate the responses, advice, and information. In an effort to save some money and time, I will probably end up taking the frame to the LBS to have them pull the current BB. Then just purchase a new sealed BB (despite the debate) and use the tool I already have - rather than buying three new ones.

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    If the LBS removes the old BB, see if they'll sell a new UN54 for $25 (list price) and install it for little or nothing. Buying your own BB saves little after shipping, and if there is a problem, like the shell threads are dirty or not deep enough, they can handle it and not break the plastic thing.
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