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  1. #1
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    Is there a definitive "brake shudder" thread on here?

    If there is, i can't find it.

    As far as front brake shudder is concerned, apart from:

    1) Toe the pads
    2) change the pads
    3) sand and/or clean the rim

    is there anything else?

    Last edited by Disco Stu; 08-31-08 at 08:55 AM.

  2. #2
    "Purgatory Central" Wino Ryder's Avatar
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    You can take a file to the brake pads and clean them up. It removes the glaze if they've hardened over time, possibly contributing to the brake shudder. If the braking surface of your rims are worn (wavy or mottled) that also could set up brake shudder.
    ~ "I like the way the brake cables come out of the top of the levers and loop around to the brake calipers!...I like those downtube shifters too!...No no no, don't take 'em off, don't take 'em off,...leave 'em on, leave 'em on! - Thats right baby!!

    ~BF - Steel Club Member #00051

  3. #3
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    Check the headset to make sure it has no play, to make sure that isn't vibrating.

    Adjust the brake calipers to eliminate play in both arms. Play in the pivots can cause a vibration which leads to shudder. Tighten the pivots till they start to bind slightly, test the bike. If the shudder goes away, its the calipers. Loosen them to just the point where they no longer bind.
    Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace

    1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
    1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
    1988 Ducati 750 F1

  4. #4
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    Toe in is the typical recomendation but I've fixed some serious squealing (just a faster version of the shudder that takes place in a different part of the brake) with toe OUT on two occasions. So if one doesn't help don't be afraid to try the other. It's only a few moments of time to do it so why not.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  5. #5
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    Thankyou for the advice.

    I really should've added that it's only happening with one set of wheels, which is a Token C50A (aluminum braking surface). To my knowledge, these rims are made by Gigantex. The rims are straight.
    Last edited by Disco Stu; 08-31-08 at 10:09 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    That's odd. I very seldom get squeal from raw aluminium (ie; machined) brake tracks. All my issues come from rims that are totally anodized including the brake tracks. If I do have any issues with machined tracks a quick toe in fixes 'em every time other than that one deamon possesed mountain bike that needed toe OUT on the front only.

    Clean the rims really well and scuff them up a little using a Scotchbrite pad. Do NOT use steel wool unless it's an SOS pad or simlar with soap. Plain steel wool has oil in it and that'll spot onto the rim. Clean and file or sand the pads. Or better yet change to Koolstop Salmons or combo salmon and black pads. You'll find that by far these are the favourite pad of many if not most folks here at BF.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  7. #7
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    Thankyou

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco Stu View Post
    The rims are straight.
    U confirmed this with a truing stand? Eye-balling it may not be enuff.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsmithepa View Post
    U confirmed this with a truing stand? Eye-balling it may not be enuff.
    Yes, I have a cheap truing stand. One of these:




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