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Old 02-27-04, 10:01 PM   #1
Cyclingmaniac
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Chain lubrication/oil?

What are your recommendations for lubricating your chain? Any product better than the other?
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Old 02-27-04, 10:07 PM   #2
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I personally am a strong proponent of finish line cross country lube or pedros syn lube, there both virtually the same stuff. When I lube the chain I put one small drop on each rivot section and then wipe off the excess. I also should mention that I only use this lube for the chain I have other stuff for different parts of the bike.
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Old 02-27-04, 10:09 PM   #3
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I forgot to mention that is usually a good idea to degrease your chain before lubing it. I would recommend a chain cleaner but if yuor desperate dish detergent works alright. once you clean it let it dry before you lube it or else the degreaser may start to break down the new lube.
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Old 02-27-04, 11:20 PM   #4
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I use White Lightning on my chain. Its a liquid with teflon wax in it. When you use it to grease the chain the liquid evaporates and leaves a thin coating of teflon wax.
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Old 02-28-04, 01:01 AM   #5
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I also use White Lightning on my chain seems to work pretty well.
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Old 02-28-04, 04:36 AM   #6
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WL does not apply well to cold chains. It solidifies on contact below about 12C
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Old 02-28-04, 05:07 AM   #7
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Hi,
this time of year, I use oil, the same FL CC mentioned above. I like Prolink when things dry out. It's a synthetic.....no greasy stains. For a really long ride I will clean the chain and Prolink it. After it's dried, I'll put on a little Finish Line. The chain stays silky smooth for hours. I also wet a folded paper shop towel with cleaner and do a real quick chain cleaning after most of my rides.
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Old 02-28-04, 05:43 AM   #8
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i use pedro's dry chain lube.
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Old 02-28-04, 06:21 AM   #9
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Pro Link. Silky smooth, doesn't "gunk" up like wax based lubes and you can get the chain fairly clean just by running it through a clean cloth. Where I am (Florida) on the coast I was using White Lightening. Being wax based it seemed to pick up a lot of sandy grit. I do not have that problem with Pro Link.

Here is a link.
http://www.webmountainbike.com/prolinchainl.html
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Old 02-28-04, 06:58 AM   #10
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I've been using a product line called Rock-n-Roll lubricants for about three years and have been extremely satisfied with everything I've tried from them.

www.rocklube.com

They have chain lubes, cable slick lube, general lube for brake and derailluer piviots, general grease and my favorite is the 5-cheese pizza bearing grease. This stuff is #1. It's a white grease available in a tub or tube. I recommend ordering the tube and the gun because this grease is stringy. You can place a dab between your fingers and it will stretch about 3 to 5 inches before the strings break. What does this mean? It means the grease grabs onto the bearings and stays there. I've rebulit hubs and after 1000 miles the grease was still coating the bearings and not out to the hub and/or dust caps.

The cable slick is something I use about every two months and my shifting stays precise.

As for the chain lube I use the Gold series. As one member stated, place a drop on each roller/pin and then let it sit a minute. Wipe off all the excess as this is what attracts dirt then ride.

Check out their products. I do about 12 overhauls a year (plus my 3-bikes twice a year) as a favor to friends and Rock-n-Roll is all I use.
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Old 02-28-04, 07:15 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclingmaniac
What are your recommendations for lubricating your chain? Any product better than the other?
Motor Oil, 30 wt, baby !!
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Old 02-28-04, 07:18 AM   #12
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prolink all year
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Old 02-28-04, 07:30 AM   #13
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pedro's extra dry or finish line prolink

but that's just me.
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Old 02-28-04, 09:32 AM   #14
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I use Boeshield, made by Boeing. (you know, the airplane people) It lasts really well and does a great job.

I am always amazed at how much difference it makes in shifting, by having a clean and well oiled drive train. I degrease and lube mine less than every 100 miles. Just did it last night and man, the bike shifted like a dream this morning.
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Old 02-28-04, 10:13 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger
I use Boeshield, made by Boeing. (you know, the airplane people) It lasts really well and does a great job.

I am always amazed at how much difference it makes in shifting, by having a clean and well oiled drive train. I degrease and lube mine less than every 100 miles. Just did it last night and man, the bike shifted like a dream this morning.

I use it to (Made for Boeing not by) for the rainy and wet climate it doesn't attract the road grit, and it lasts longer that any other lube I have used.

Motor oil egad thats terrible stuff I imagine my chain would have 5# of grime on it after my first 10 miles

White Lightning doesn't work in the wet it washes off to easy terrible stuff for this climate.
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Old 02-28-04, 06:25 PM   #16
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You didn't say what you ride. So here's my roadie perspective.

Gawd, I'm the only person left in the world that still uses Tri-flow. I've tried pretty much all the products mentioned above, well, except Boeshield. I didn't know that was a lube. :confused: Pro-link is close, IMO. And, granted, cleaner.

What ngateguy said about motor oil.

There's not a huge difference between lubes, IMO. Clean your chain when it needs it and follow the mfg. directions. In my case, I use an on-the-bike cleaner once a month unless I ride in the rain, and re-lube. Generally get 3K miles to a chain, before 1/16" stretch over a 12" section.
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Old 02-28-04, 08:04 PM   #17
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I used to use motor oil until Raiyn (another member) got on me. At the time I though he was full of BS, but I tried some White Lighting and have not looked back.

I probably own him an apology (or a thank you) for saving me time from having cleaning my chain. It was hard to pay the five bucks for 6 ounces compared to 79 cents for a quart of oil, but bike lube seems to go further than motor oil.

ehenz
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Old 02-28-04, 08:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadbuzz
Gawd, I'm the only person left in the world that still uses Tri-flow.
Nope, there's at least two of us.

I used Phil Wood for years and liked it, but it became hard to find so I swiched to Tri-flow. I believe I like it better than Phil Wood.

I have used heavy weight motor oil in a pinch, it seemed to lube OK but it would sling all over the spokes and rim and make a hell of a mess no matter how little I used. At ride's end, it was dry chain - oily bike.
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Old 02-28-04, 08:50 PM   #19
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There was a interesting usenet post several weeks ago from a guy who did a somewhat controlled experiment regarding cleaning and lubing chains. In the end, it seemed that cleaning was probably not worth the effort unless there was enough accumulated muck to keep the chain from functioning.

I personally don't worry too much about it. I find I have to replace the chain about once a year regardless, or else face the consequences. With that in mind, I lube with just about anything convenient. And rarely need to clean a chain.
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Old 02-28-04, 11:07 PM   #20
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Finish Line dry formula. Easy to find, easy to use, doesn't attract gunk.
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Old 02-28-04, 11:19 PM   #21
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Tri Flow has been around for a very long time, I used it from about 75 till 94. Then after hearing about the miracles of wax I tried about a dozen different ones only to find they were all crap, had to reapply after every ride due to chain noise by the end of a ride. So still thinking that Tri Flow is old technology, I now use Finish Line Teflon Plus and it seems to last as long as the Tri Flow about 400 to 500 miles before it gets black and you should clean it, but during all that time the chain is silient-and where there's no noise there is a lot less wear going on. Never tried ProLink or Rock and Roll but heard both are very good. BoeShield is not a lubercant and they say so on the bottle, I would not be using this stuff to lubercate a chain; nor would I be using motor oil due to it's ability to attract dirt like a magnet-but in a pinch it's better than nothing.
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Old 02-29-04, 09:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
BoeShield is not a lubercant and they say so on the bottle, I would not be using this stuff to lubercate a chain; nor would I be using motor oil due to it's ability to attract dirt like a magnet-but in a pinch it's better than nothing.
Unique solvent parrafin wax formula penetrates, cleans, and displaces moisture. Dries to a thin film that lubricates and protects for HUNDREDS OF MILES. will not wash off or pick up dirt.
Application
Apply and allow to dry for 2 hours or more, wipe off excess
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Old 02-29-04, 11:24 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dobber
Motor Oil, 30 wt, baby !!
Yeah I agree with you, really the stresses that a car engine deals out is far greater than even the strongest cyclists. I use motor oil, 1 quart = bout a dollar lasts quite a few years... Put in a bottle with a telescopic applicator and really it works perfect. One of my friends goes around a finds used quarts at service stations, usually the residue left over in 5 or so bottles is enough to keep a fleet of bikes going a couple of months.

I just don't see why I should spend so much money for something which is "marketed" to cyclists when really there isn't any noticable increase in utility. Although I do use Park grease, so perhaps I am just a hypocrite.
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Old 02-29-04, 11:48 AM   #24
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If you're going to use 30wt, you might consider using a solvent to thin it down enough that it can actually get into the links. Looks pretty thick to do that without a little help.
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Old 02-29-04, 10:26 PM   #25
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I'm Tri-Flow all the way except on rainy or muddy mountain bike conditions, I'll use Phil Wood. With TF on the road bike, I can go about 300ish miles between lubings, and my cassete and chain are still pretty shiny. I used White Lighting for a while a few years ago, and it made a mess and didn't last too long. YMMV. I Usually use Phil Wood grease or Pedro's Syn grease for the hubs.

If you use motor oil, it just shows that you don't care about the proper way to do stuff. Motor oil = ghetto rigging. Motor oil also does a great job at keeping the drivetrail dirty and caked up with crap. At my shop, when someone brings in a bike that's been lubed with MO, they pretty much automatically get the "how to clean and lube the drivetrain" talk. So nasty.
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