hillzofvalp

So I mounted a new set of tires on true wheels. When I spin them, there is a little wobble kinda like that you'd see on a untrue wheel. Is this normal/ok?

Thank you

edit: these are road wheels and vittoria open corsa ex's...

rhenning

No, the tire is not seated correctly. You will probably have a blow out shortly after you start riding it. Roger

StanSeven

Either that or you don't have the tube in right where it's gathered. In both cases, you need to start over. Put a little air in the tube first to keep it from twitsing around and fit well.

G piny parnas

use talcom powder on the tube after you re-do the tire... slowly put them to pressure--
kneading the tire and watching for the bead to set in the groove----

operator

You need to find out why there's a wobble. Is the tube trapped between the bead and the sidewall? Is the tire defective? Is it not seating properly? Or is this normal variation in a cheap tire?

Answer these questions.

BCRider

Check around the bead. There's usually a line molded in the tire. If that line is uneven then the tire isn't seated right or the tube is pinched where it shouldn't be. And yes this is important to check for all the reasons noted above.

But if these lines are even and the tire still has a little wobble to it then it is what it is. Bicycle tires are not made to the same exacting tolerances as car or motorcycle tires and I've seen similar wobble on many tires even when they are mounted correctly with no tube pinch or any other rim to bead related issues. They are just out of true tires.

wmodavis

It is normal for there to be a bit of wobble in the tire itself even when it and the tube are properly mounted. It can be mistaken for an untrue rim if you don't look carefully. After you've verified the good suggestions above and still have a bit of visible wobble I wouldn't worry about it too much. But do check those other potential causes first.

njm

I am having a similar problem with a Schwalbe Marathon. It was fine until a certain point in time -- I don't whether I ran over some rough asphalt. The transition occurred within only a hundred miles, so I asked for warranty service, but the LBS was useless.

I did hear the advicce that other posters have given, suggesting to carefully install tube/tire. I used talcum powder, seated and re-seated, but I have come to terms with the face that it is an inherent part of the tire's shape.

I would try to answer the questions operator posed in order to diagnose the problem. In addition, ask, does the "bulge" result in any rubbing against frame or brakes? Does it make the bicycle tend away from straightline travel? I was having these problems.

Reading the previous two posts makes me feel a lot better about my tire, now that after adjustment those immediate problems are solved.

G piny parnas

ya know--- I would check the metal bead if it has one----

hillzofvalp

More on this tomorrow, when I'm not tired. however, I can tell you from what I remember is that where the inlet hole is, I couldn't get the bead to seat on each side of the tube. When inflated, you don't see it.

I'll check you what you guys said... Thanks

DannoXYZ 

Don't start and stop mounting the tyre at the valve-stem! It's trouble enough getting the last 6" of bead on without having to deal with the thicker rubber at the valve-stem. Start somewhere like 90-degrees away and go over the stem. After you've gotten the 2nd bead past the valve-stem area, push UP on the stem INTO the tube. This will push the two sides of the tube that's pinched by the tyre inside.

You've got a pinched tube that's causing the uneven tyre-seating. It's best to let out the air after mounting the tyre and pull it sideways to inspect the gap between the tube and rim. Then move over a little and pull the tyre sideways again and inspect. Work your way around the entire circumference and then do the other side. Only and ONLY when you can confirm that there's no tube pinched ANYWHERE should you then pump up the tyre.

You've got a blow-out waiting to happen. Fix the problem and and re-mount that tyre properly before it lets go at 50mph on a downhill....

Bottomfeeder

All good advice here. I learned the hard way about not paying proper attention when mounting a tire. But know that even once you have made sure the tire is properly beaded and tube is not pinched, twisted or folded somehow... some tires, especially $10 or $20 ones, can have casing or tread defects. I recently had two specialized road tires which when properly mounted and inflated still made my straight wheel look like it needed major truing when I gave it a spin. I took them back to the LBS.

DanO

hillzofvalp

All of your suggestions helped. My tires are $33 at PBK and so less chance of defects, I guess. However, when I spin the wheel, the tire isn't perfect, as it's colored and you can see that the stripe of black goes back and forth a little bit. The physical shape of the tire is pretty close to perfect all the way around.

What happens when you blow a tire at 50 miles an hour? (obviously you lose control). How do you recover?

One more thing-- what purpose does the little nut serve that goes over the valve? I have Cane creek volos wheels which have a v-style rim, so the little nut doesn't fit as "flush" (on the rear wheel) as it would on a wheel with a valve hole on the outer most edge of the rim (for example my front wheel). Just curious.

hillzofvalp

Haha, regarding my question about how to recover.. I think it's safe to say you can just brake. I just was at bmw driving school----so I've been thinking about how to recover. So are there any bicycle handling techniques that aren't common sense?

LesterOfPuppets

Hrrmm, just brake? Is that BMW car school or BMW motorcycle school? Doesn't seem like "just brake" would be a good idea for either.

I've had a 55mph blowout on a car on the freeway, and I don't think I'd advise "just braking." My advice for car blowouts would be:

1. Don't Panic
2. Foot off the throttle
3. Head towards nearest emergency lane
4. Brake lightly as needed.

I've had a couple on bicycles up around 30mph and for those, I'd follow much the same advice, along with some prayer that you're not on a curve when it happens. And of course, since you have the choice, brake as needed using only the wheel with a tire that's still inflated...

Oh and on the matter of tire wobble. Tire molding is tough to get right every time. I don't think price of tires has much to do with it either. I've had $50 tires with a little wobble in 'em. Nothing to worry about for the most part. Just make sure your bead is seated properly, as others have said.

DannoXYZ 

Then everything's fine. What you're seeing is the uneven distribution of black rubber where it's moulded to the side of the casing. If the outer circumference spins evenly, you're fine.

Whatever you do, DO NOT just jam on the brakes!!! Keep the bike upright and brake gently on the wheel that's NOT FLAT!

A front flat is especially dangerous and you MUST keep going in a straight line and upright. Any angle between the wheel and the road will cause the tyre to unseat and wrap itself around the spokes at the centre of the wheel and lock it up. Trying to brake with a bare metal front-rim on the road gives you slightly lower chance than a snowflake in hell in terms of keeping it upright and not turning 80% of your skin into raw hamburger...

hillzofvalp

Bmw driving school... I am 17 and I did the teen course in a 335i. In the course I was doing I was usually on the gas generally or on the brake as hard as I could to demonstrate abs at its best. \

I meant "I think braking will help for sure, but what else could help during recovery?"

Thanks for your input. I like living.