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  1. #1
    Hills hurt.. Couches kill RacerOne's Avatar
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    Rust, repaint, and other problems

    The bike is a 1992 Specialized Sirrus Triple that I've owned since new. I've got a few issues I'd like to run by you guys. First of is some rust. It is on and around the lug at the seat / top tube junction, on the bottom bracket and on the rear dropouts. I pulled the post out and it doesn't look or feel like it is all the way through the wall of the tubing. The interesting thing is I have a friend who purchased an identical bike about 6 months later and his is pristine / no rust at all. Granted, his doesn't have the miles on it that mine does but I actually have doubts that any primer was ever applied to my bike. If my bike gets a chip, it rusts. If his has a similiar nick no rust. Oh well, on to my point, would repainting the bike be advised or should I let it go farther? If I did repaint it does anybody know where I could get replacement decals? I'd like to keep it original. Here are some photos:

    Overall:


    Top Tube:


    Rear Dropout:


    Bottom Bracket:


    Second problem: My rear wheel keeps going off center, I have the quick release as tight as I can humanly get it (I was almost sure it would break off when I closed it) but it keeps sliding off left. I recently had to replace a broken rear axle if that might have anything to do with it.

    Third problem: There is a bird chirping sound coming out of the rear end / drive. I've adjusted and adjusted but can't get rid of it. What's the most likely culprit, chain, freewheel, deraileur or other?

    Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Problem 1-- I would use rust converter and touch up paint.

    Problem 2-- Axle is either too long, not centered, or knurled nuts on axle are not turned to the outside.

    Problem 3 -- try oiling chain as first solution.

  3. #3
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    repainting it could be fun, but you don't need too. for touching up, i would recommend sanding down the rusted area, then using spray can primer (etching primer), and using any gloss paint over that. that will get you a very nice seal that is unlikely to let any rust come through again. but if you want to be sure of it, do a complete strip and re-paint

    btw, i haven't heard of any self etching paint that could be used on the industrial level yet, or at least not that it's being used, so if your bike still has paint on it, i would bet strongly that it has to have primer under it. as for your friend not getting rust, it's tough to say, but it could be the difference between him leaving his in a climate controlled garage and yours possibly being in an un-sealed shed. just one example, but you see what i mean.
    Last edited by KasbeKZ; 09-27-08 at 07:45 PM.

  4. #4
    Hills hurt.. Couches kill RacerOne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim p View Post
    Problem 1-- I would use rust converter and touch up paint.

    Problem 2-- Axle is either too long, not centered, or knurled nuts on axle are not turned to the outside.

    Problem 3 -- try oiling chain as first solution.
    #1 I think I'll give this a try as a temporary stop gap.

    #2 The axle may be the issue, I'll also check the knurled nuts. I broke the axle this summer and had to replace it. I'll double check everything. As far as centering goes, do you measure it or just eyeball it to make sure the tire is centered up with the seat tube? And if measuring is the answer, what exactly do you measure.

    #3 The chain is clean and lubed.

  5. #5
    Hills hurt.. Couches kill RacerOne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KasbeKZ View Post
    btw, i haven't heard of any self etching paint that could be used on the industrial level yet, or at least not that it's being used, so if your bike still has paint on it, i would bet strongly that it has to have primer under it. as for your friend not getting rust, it's tough to say, but it could be the difference between him leaving his in a climate controlled garage and yours possibly being in an un-sealed shed. just one example, but you see what i mean.
    My bike was probably stored in better conditions than his, and the rust etc really started right after I got it. Would it have been possible that the primer step was simply skipped, ie Friday afternoon shift and we got to meet the quota type situation? Oh well, I think this things going to get a repaint in the dead of winter. Any idea on getting new decals made up?

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    Honestly, the cost of repainting, unless you have a collectable Italian one-of-a-kind frame, is not really worth it. Unless you just want to throw money at your bike. I have rehabbed many old bikes and never seen a case where rust is all the way through the tubing. Hit your spots with some steel wool, buy some auto touch up paint that is a close match, prep the surface (acetone is what I like), touch up, and ride. When you get tired of looking at it in 10 years, buy a new bike.

  7. #7
    Hills hurt.. Couches kill RacerOne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tellyho View Post
    When you get tired of looking at it in 10 years, buy a new bike.
    Well, it's already 16 years old and frankly I am tired of looking at it! But it works and I've no cash on hand to buy a new one. So I ride what I've got!

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    repainting costs:
    a few sheets of 80-120 grit:$5-10.
    a few sheets of 220-400 grit:$5-10
    can of etching primer:$5
    can of paint:$5

    if you want to go cheap. it would work, it just wouldn't last as long as buying good two or 3 part paint and spraying it on and using sealer and the like. i still can't see it getting too expensive if you do it yourself. but, on that note, i am set up with a paint booth at home but you could always borrow a gun and if you have a compressor, you are set.

    if you paint it in the winter, and use a good multi-part paint, make sure to get reducer that is appropriate for the temperature. standard reducer may be around 65-75 degrees. get the right one. it really matters

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    Your mom
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    repainting costs:
    a few sheets of 80-120 grit:$5-10.
    a few sheets of 220-400 grit:$5-10
    can of etching primer:$5
    can of paint:$5
    No! No, no, no. If you're going to repaint, do it right. You will not be satisfied with the rattelcan job, as it will last ~3 seconds. My fixed frame, a Trek 400 I'm rather fond of, is currently rusting away under a fairly meticulous, but nonetheless worthless rattlecan job.

    My eventual plan for said frame is the powdercoat. Drop off at the coaters, they blast, prep, and coat. Not as sexy as a nice paint job, but you should be able to get away for $80 or so.

  10. #10
    Hills hurt.. Couches kill RacerOne's Avatar
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    I would never use a rattle can. I've got a gun and a compressor that I used to patch my truck up after I hit a tree. I've got a friend with a machine shop with full paint booth set up as well. If I do this, I'll do it right. I hate moving backwards!

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    i agree, always better to do it the right way. a little more labor will make the spray can come out to be the poor man's equivalent.

    http://www.autoblog.com/2007/07/03/n...50-will-do-it/

  12. #12
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    The Specialized Sirrus was a high quality road frame from that era. I think it would be worth the effort to freshen it up and continue riding it.

    I'd repaint it to your heart's desire. Then you'll have something personal and custom to be proud about.
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
    I'd rather add more life to my years, than years to my life.

  13. #13
    Hills hurt.. Couches kill RacerOne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim p View Post
    Problem 3 -- try oiling chain as first solution.
    Well, after telling you this wasn't the problem, just for fun I put twice the normal amount of tri-flow I normally use on the chain. What do you know.. it's much quieter. Thanks.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by KasbeKZ View Post
    i agree, always better to do it the right way. a little more labor will make the spray can come out to be the poor man's equivalent.

    http://www.autoblog.com/2007/07/03/n...50-will-do-it/
    That's pretty cool, maybe I should give that a shot. I worry about the durability though.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNG View Post
    The Specialized Sirrus was a high quality road frame from that era. I think it would be worth the effort to freshen it up and continue riding it.

    I'd repaint it to your heart's desire. Then you'll have something personal and custom to be proud about.
    I sure thought it was cool when I got it. Thanks for the encouraging words. As far as going custom though I would really like to keep it original but I would like to change the color if possible. Would any of you guys have a Specialized catalogs from that era that would show me other color combinations available that bike?

  16. #16
    Senior Member badmother's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RacerOne View Post

    Second problem: My rear wheel keeps going off center, I have the quick release as tight as I can humanly get it (I was almost sure it would break off when I closed it) but it keeps sliding off left. I recently had to replace a broken rear axle if that might have anything to do with it.
    Did not have the time to read all the replys so I hope I do not repeat what has been said before:

    I`we learnt from this forum that on horizontal dropouts you must make sure you use the right type of quick release. Maybe buy a new one? The important thing is do not use the modern alu ones, they are ment for the vertical dropouts (or whatewer you call it. You need a steel one and make sure it can grip properly. If mnot buy a new one. The axellenght thing sounds right too.

    Third problem: Maybe you squeesing the rear skewer so hardis jamming the bearrings?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by badmother View Post
    Did not have the time to read all the replys so I hope I do not repeat what has been said before:

    I`we learnt from this forum that on horizontal dropouts you must make sure you use the right type of quick release. Maybe buy a new one? The important thing is do not use the modern alu ones, they are ment for the vertical dropouts (or whatewer you call it. You need a steel one and make sure it can grip properly. If mnot buy a new one. The axellenght thing sounds right too.

    Third problem: Maybe you squeesing the rear skewer so hardis jamming the bearrings?
    Well, I do have horizontal dropouts and I recently went from a steel to aluminum skewer after breaking my axle bending the skewer. Mystery may be solved.

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