Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1,312
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Mounting brakes on a road bike

    I'm in the middle of doing my first build of a road bike, i'm trying to mount stock Shimano Ultegra 6600 brakes on the bike, but it appears that the stock brake bolts that came with the brakes are too short too mount the rear brake ... Is this somewhat common? Do I just need a longer bolt for the rear, or am I doing something wrong?

  2. #2
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,298
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It would be uncommon, but if you're sure the recessed bolt isn't long enough - your LBS should stock longer ones. They come in various sizes.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  3. #3
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    The 'Wack, BC, Canada
    My Bikes
    Norco (4), Miyata, Canondale, Specialized, K2 Proflex
    Posts
    5,359
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Is this an older frame? Is the rear tubular nut going down into the brake bridge or is it just on the surface? If the hole on the front side of the brake bridge isn't big enough to let the shank of the tubular nut fit into the tube then you'll need to drill that out. This is a tough one due to restricted access in the opening and the topic of many a past thread.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  4. #4
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,298
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    Is this an older frame? Is the rear tubular nut going down into the brake bridge or is it just on the surface? If the hole on the front side of the brake bridge isn't big enough to let the shank of the tubular nut fit into the tube then you'll need to drill that out. This is a tough one due to restricted access in the opening and the topic of many a past thread.
    He said it was too short, not that it didn't fit IINM.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Joshua A.C. New's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Northampton, MA
    My Bikes
    Iron Monkey: a junkyard steel 26" slick-tired city bike. Grey Fox: A Trek 7x00 frame, painted, with everything built, from spokes up. Jet Jaguar: A 92 Cannondale R900 frame, powder coated matte black with red and aluminum highlights.
    Posts
    957
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Are you sure you don't have your brakes reversed front to back?
    Joshua A.C. Newman,
    Passionate lover of construction

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1,312
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The longer bolt goes in front right

    The frame is fairly new (2007 Trek 2100, one of the last US made Aluminum trek's I believe). The rear seatstays including the wishbone area are CF, so it's pretty thick (about 35mm total thickness). As far as I can tell, I can't get the flared allen-key end of the nut to fit into the hole, so my only other option would be to get a longer brake nut?

    Looking at my other bike with Aluminum stays, the distance is much shorter, so i'm assuming it's the thick wishbone area of the carbon stays that's causing the problem. Does this sound right? The frame is anything exotic, which is why i'm wondering if this is a common issue.

  7. #7
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    The 'Wack, BC, Canada
    My Bikes
    Norco (4), Miyata, Canondale, Specialized, K2 Proflex
    Posts
    5,359
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    So the issue is that the head (not a flare) of the nut won't fit down into the hole. OK.

    Is there a shoulder down inside the recess in the bridge that the head would rest on? If not then the nut is intended to have the head stay out and exposed. If there is a shoulder in the hole then the head of the nut is just a little oversized and you can fix that by mounting it in a hand drill and hold a metal file up to the head to slightly reduce the diameter until it does fit.

    But from what you're saying I get the impression that the nut isn't threading onto the caliper's bolt at all. That's a whole other issue. In total you must have the nut thread onto the bolt by at least 5 turns. And even at that I'd be looking for a longer nut that provides more like 6 to 7 with 8 turns being even better. If it's not even hitting the threads or is only turning on a thread or two you'll need to look in the hole and evaulate how many more turns you'll get by reducing the head diameter if it has a shoulder inside to seat onto.

    Lots of "if"s but hopefully that'll help you out. They make the holes in the frames pretty tight. If you're running with a higher end Campy or Shimano brake the tubular nuts were finely made to tighter tolerances. I've seen some that look like they came from the high end aerospace industry and others that look like they were whittled out from a bar of soap and then half melted to smoothen them up. The chromed ones in particular can be pretty cheezy looking and I can see one of those not fitting properly quite easily.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •