Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Made in Taiwan
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Vancouver
    My Bikes
    Jamis Coda Sport, Old Tange Hi-Ten Single Speed built from a 12 speed
    Posts
    76
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    What type of sandpaper is best for tire puncture repair?

    Hi all,

    I just had a rear tire puncture a few days ago due to a piece of broken nail. In the end I didn't patch the tire, I just put in a new one. The nail had gone all the way through and put holes on both side of the inner tube. I just didn't feel it was worth the time and energy to repair something like that. I will keep the old tube for DIY projects though. Like cutting it up for patches or using sections of it to protect the bike.

    The main question that I had was that the patch kit I had only had the metal rasp and no sandpaper. What type of sandpaper would work well on feathering and preparing an inner tube for a glue on patch. One of the holes on my tube was right next to a ridge and I had never been able to get those smoothed out well with the metal rasps. Often time I damage the tires further. What grit sandpaper works well and should I get?

    Thanks all in advance.
    *Scuba

  2. #2
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
    My Bikes
    86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.
    Posts
    7,381
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've got a 100 grit emery sanding belt laying around that seems to work pretty good.
    It appears to be a pretty good balance between "gouging" and clogging. IF I were to go different, I'd go slightly coarser, but not much.
    Get a wet/dry type, if you immerse your tubes in water to find leaks. A couple drops of water dissolves a dry only type.

    I remove too much skin with the metal rasp!

  3. #3
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    St Peters, Missouri
    My Bikes
    Rans Enduro Sport, Hase Kettweisel Tandem, Merin Bear Valley beater bike
    Posts
    24,008
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Steal an emery board from your wife or girlfriend. They're perfect for that and for dressing brake shoes. In a pinch you can even buy your own since they're available everywhere and they don't cost much.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Montreal
    My Bikes
    Peugeot Hybrid, Minelli Hybrid
    Posts
    6,521
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You dont need to feather the tube and remove mold lines. You only have to break up the release compound left on the tire from the manufacturing process. The little metal rasp provided with the parch kit is quite adequate for this.

  5. #5
    50000 Guatts of power 127.0.0.1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,001
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewP View Post
    You dont need to feather the tube and remove mold lines. You only have to break up the release compound left on the tire from the manufacturing process. The little metal rasp provided with the parch kit is quite adequate for this.
    so that is all you have to do ...is clean the rubber ? I thought you had to make scuffs

    hell I will go easier next time. I never had a patch go bad on me but I scour the crap
    out of every repair first



    on a side note, are any self adhesive patches, the one step ones, any good ? I have some but am afraid
    to actually use them and always keep using good old scuff-[sniff]-squeeze the goo-stick method
    I like fat bikes
    and I cannot lie.

  6. #6
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Salinas , Ca.
    My Bikes
    Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
    Posts
    2,079
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    the one step ones are for temp use only. like if you are in the middle of nowhere and need to get home or to a shop ,then replace the patch with glue/patch one or the tube.

  7. #7
    genec genec's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    san diego
    My Bikes
    custom built, sannino, beachbike, giant trance x2
    Posts
    23,052
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    so that is all you have to do ...is clean the rubber ? I thought you had to make scuffs

    hell I will go easier next time. I never had a patch go bad on me but I scour the crap
    out of every repair first



    on a side note, are any self adhesive patches, the one step ones, any good ? I have some but am afraid
    to actually use them and always keep using good old scuff-[sniff]-squeeze the goo-stick method
    Frankly I thought you had to expose virgin rubber... as the glue is a vulcanizing compound... and the patch itself is fresh and clean new rubber.

    I've never had a patch fail, so I think I'll continue to expose good fresh virgin rubber... beyond just "cleaning" the rubber.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    3,194
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If you are doing the repair at home, don't use sandpaper at all. Instead, use a little Brake Klean or carb cleaner. Just wet a little spot on a shop towel and rub the gloss off the tube. bk

  9. #9
    Senior Member Road Fan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    My Bikes
    Terraferma 650b, Mondonico SL and ELOS, Masi Gran Criterium, Trek 610, Breezer Liberty, Georgena Terry Classic
    Posts
    11,215
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Park Tools?

  10. #10
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Saratoga, CA
    Posts
    11,507
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by genec View Post
    Frankly I thought you had to expose virgin rubber... as the glue is a vulcanizing compound... and the patch itself is fresh and clean new rubber.

    I've never had a patch fail, so I think I'll continue to expose good fresh virgin rubber... beyond just "cleaning" the rubber.
    Yes, patches with vulcanizing fluid work best when fresh rubber is exposed. Don't just scuff up the surface, remove the slick mould-release surface completely down to black rubber.

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Houston, TX
    My Bikes
    Giant FCR3, Cannondale Synapse Carbon
    Posts
    193
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have had good luck using a drywall sanding sponge. I put my fingers in back of the perforation and briskly rub with the sponge; much easier than the metal abraders that come in the patch kits.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Denver, Co.
    Posts
    699
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by bkaapcke View Post
    If you are doing the repair at home, don't use sandpaper at all. Instead, use a little Brake Klean or carb cleaner. Just wet a little spot on a shop towel and rub the gloss off the tube. bk
    +1, lacquer thinner works for me...
    Bud

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,293
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by genec View Post
    Frankly I thought you had to expose virgin rubber... as the glue is a vulcanizing compound... and the patch itself is fresh and clean new rubber.

    I've never had a patch fail, so I think I'll continue to expose good fresh virgin rubber... beyond just "cleaning" the rubber.
    The glue used is just that, glue. It's not some magical vulcanizing fluid. Heat is what vulcanizes the rubber. It doesn't happen in bike tires, but it does in automotive tires. The glue needs a clean surface to stick to. You can get that with sandpaper, or a solvent.

  14. #14
    I live in a bicycle. smovlov's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    FLOR-DUH
    My Bikes
    1980 Motobecane Le Champion, 1972 Schwinn Super Sport, 1985 Nishiki Cresta GT
    Posts
    231
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
    Steal an emery board from your wife or girlfriend.
    What if I don't have one?

    I was always under the impression that the "glue" was a type of contact cement. Thats why the instructions tell you to let it dry

    I have had a patch and my pump fail on me and it was no fun. I didn't have my phone either. I was about 15 miles from my house. Gratefully someone stopped and had a tube and a pump! He said it would be good karma for him. Two days later I was on the same road headed to work and there was a guy walking with a flat tire so I picked him up and drove him to his house (in the opposite direction about 10 miles). Funny how things work sometimes.

  15. #15
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    other Vancouver
    Posts
    6,961
    Mentioned
    22 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    so that is all you have to do ...is clean the rubber ? I thought you had to make scuffs
    Exactly. Clean the molding compound off the tube, let the cement dry before you put the patch on, and the tube and patch will be one. If you don't do this, you'll trap contaminants between the patch and tube and they'll eventually bite you.
    Jeff Wills

    All my bikes.

  16. #16
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    The 'Wack, BC, Canada
    My Bikes
    Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
    Posts
    5,435
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well removing the contaminants pretty much means scuffing off the layer on the top until the rubber has a soft flat black look to it.

    I'll have to try the brake cleaner trick but I know for sure that acetone and lacquer thinners and other solvents of that sort dissolve the rubber. THat's why the paper towel or whatever you use comes away black. So in a way you have gotten down to the fresh rubber below but just not by using abrasives.

    In the end if the patch lifts you didn't work the area hard enough or long enough. A patch that has been pressed firmly into place and left for 5 minutes or so should be able to withstand the tube being stretched at all angles without lifting from the surface. If it passes that test then your method and technique are good. If it lifts then it's not.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •