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Old 11-06-08, 01:37 PM   #1
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Replacing all the spokes at once

I'm considering purchasing a new set of hand built wheels and immediately replacing the spokes with something stronger.

I'm a novice wheel builder. I'm hoping I can just remove a spoke, carefully install and torque down the replacement and the wheel will be correct.

Will this work?

Michael
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Old 11-06-08, 01:44 PM   #2
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You'd have a long, difficult job ahead of you. If you are going through the trouble of doing that why not just build the set you want the first time? Don't bother paying the premium for hand built wheels in the first place.
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Old 11-06-08, 02:03 PM   #3
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If they are handbuilt why can't you get the spokes you want the first time? No point in buying handbuilt if you are going to rebuild them.
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Old 11-06-08, 02:18 PM   #4
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I'm considering purchasing a new set of hand built wheels and immediately replacing the spokes with something stronger.

I'm a novice wheel builder. I'm hoping I can just remove a spoke, carefully install and torque down the replacement and the wheel will be correct.

Will this work?

Michael
As others have said, why not just have the spokes done right to begin with? Replacing spokes is not just a simple case of unscrewing the spoke, putting the new on in and tightening it down, then going on to the next one. A wheel is all about balancing the forces that make up the structure. Get the balance wrong and the structure isn't strong.

Do a search of the forums for wheel building, find a copy of Brandt's book or look at this series of articles (particularly article 2 and 3) and plan your own wheels.
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Old 11-06-08, 03:39 PM   #5
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I said handbuilt, not custom built. The wheels are already built and on closeout for a fraction of the price of buying the components and building the wheels. My alternative is to have my LBS change the spokes. This would still be cheaper than any price I can find anywhere else.

Do several posters need to reiterate the the same condescending opinion?

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Old 11-06-08, 03:57 PM   #6
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Do several posters need to reiterate the the same condescending opinion?

Michael
Yes. That remains a silly idea.

In all seriousness, why are the original spokes not strong enough? For myself I generally prefer DT Swiss butted spokes, but wouldn't be nervous riding the same build with slightly lighter or straight gauge spokes.

Assuming you need heavier duty wheels (for whatever reason) - spoke count, lacing pattern and rim strength should be strongly considered.

For example: 20 count carbon fiber spoked wheels won't suddenly become appropriate for heavy touring just because you replaced with premium triple butted round steel spokes.
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Old 11-06-08, 03:59 PM   #7
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Do several posters need to reiterate the the same condescending opinion?
Definitely. When someone asks a question which indicates that they're done no research or have any idea of how a wheel works then it's jump on the newbie time. The odds of a handbuilt wheel being custom made for you are far higher than one being available at a reduced price so it was a reasonable assumption for people to make. Why not just buy the wheels and replace the spokes if they break? Are you a particularly heavy rider?
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Old 11-06-08, 04:13 PM   #8
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Why not just buy the wheels and replace the spokes if they break? Are you a particularly heavy rider?
Yes, I'm 225 plus and the current wheel is rated well below that.

I guess I'll just have to put up with idiot name-calling over here! Or I can work with the best mechanics in the industry at my LBS and avoid the rif raf.

Michael
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Old 11-06-08, 04:21 PM   #9
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Yup! Your choice. Go the place that's appropriate for your skin thickness.
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Old 11-06-08, 04:35 PM   #10
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For example: 20 count carbon fiber spoked wheels won't suddenly become appropriate for heavy touring just because you replaced with premium triple butted round steel spokes.
Agreed, the rims are 32 hole Mavic Open Pro's on Shimano 105 hubs. For some reason they were laced with Wheelsmith Double-Butted 2.0/1.7mm (14/16 gauge) stainless spokes and the seller states a 160 # rider weight limit. The rims with any good spoke set should handle my size without any issues.

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Old 11-06-08, 04:37 PM   #11
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Yup! Your choice. Go the place that's appropriate for your skin thickness.
Maybe I will have to weed out the off topic replies and focus on people who really want to help.

Michael
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Old 11-06-08, 04:37 PM   #12
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Yes, I'm 225 plus and the current wheel is rated well below that.

I guess I'll just have to put up with idiot name-calling over here! Or I can work with the best mechanics in the industry at my LBS and avoid the rif raf.

Michael
If you can get the parts for cheap, there's no problem with taking the wheel apart and rebuilding it. However, you'll have to disassemble the wheel completely and then replace the spokes. You can't just replace them one at a time and hope for any kind of useful result. The wheel has to be detensioned, respoked and retensioned.

Spokes aren't cheap, however. Expect to pay $.50 to $1.00 for each if you want something worth using if the are conventional spokes. If the spokes are something funky, expect to pay much more.

However, if they are low spoke wheels don't expect them to be much stronger with different spokes like smurf hunter said.
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Old 11-06-08, 04:39 PM   #13
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Agreed, the rims are 32 hole Mavic Open Pro's on Shimano 105 hubs. For some reason they were laced with Wheelsmith Double-Butted 2.0/1.7mm (14/16 gauge) stainless spokes and the seller states a 160 # rider weight limit. The rims with any good spoke set should handle my size without any issues.

Michael
I've ridden many miles on wheels exactly like those and I'm no where near 160 lb. The weight limit is way too low. Ride 'em as is and don't worry about it.
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Old 11-06-08, 04:42 PM   #14
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I've ridden many miles on wheels exactly like those and I'm no where near 160 lb. The weight limit is way too low. Ride 'em as is and don't worry about it.
I'm considering just upgrading the rear wheel. I have a long commute and want it to be bulletproof.

Michael
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Old 11-06-08, 04:59 PM   #15
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Those are very good rims and good upper-tier hubs. They are fine for what you plan. I wouldn't sign up for the Tour de France, but you'll get to work and weekend-rides just fine. The "mechanic" who told you that should not be allowed near the public-end of the store. Maybe a career as a cartoonist would be more fitting.

Happy trails!
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Old 11-06-08, 05:21 PM   #16
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Maybe I will have to weed out the off topic replies and focus on people who really want to help.

Michael
Hey tubby we're just trying to help.

Those seem like decently strong wheels which don't need anything doing to them. Why increase the cost without a proven reason.
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Old 11-06-08, 05:36 PM   #17
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There is one thing I forgot - aside from 20 years of my life, but that was on purpose - and that is to make sure these wheels have the proper tension in the spokes. I've seen "professionally-built custom wheels!" - show up with the spokes so loose they rattled. No kidding. So do get that looked into. If you don't want to see that diplomatic-mechanic again - I wouldn't - just get a reading done anywhere they build wheels, and bring the numbers back here. We'll be glad to tell you if they are in specs.

A Park Tool Tension Meter (TM-1) is a wonderful tool to place in a collection. Beats the Wheelsmith one hands down, and costs 1/2 - 1/3 the price.
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Old 11-06-08, 05:50 PM   #18
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Agreed, the rims are 32 hole Mavic Open Pro's on Shimano 105 hubs. For some reason they were laced with Wheelsmith Double-Butted 2.0/1.7mm (14/16 gauge) stainless spokes and the seller states a 160 # rider weight limit. The rims with any good spoke set should handle my size without any issues.

Michael
You are kidding, right. This is just a test to see how stupid we all are. I am 6'2" and currently weigh about 200# and have been riding a set of Phil Wood 32 hole Highflange hubs laced to Sun rims with the same Wheelsmith Double butted spokes for quite awhile. They are bullet proof. The front is a 2X and the rear is a modified Crow/radial. If these are 3X wheels you have nothing to worry about, unless you are jumping curbs or aiming for the pot holes. Just ride them.
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Old 11-06-08, 06:17 PM   #19
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+1 on those wheels being plenty strong for a clyde.

32x open pro with shimano hubs and quality spokes is a tried and true, safe way to roll for most any scenario.
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Old 11-06-08, 06:29 PM   #20
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Dude relax. I think a hand built wheel will be fine without changing the spokes.
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Old 11-06-08, 06:33 PM   #21
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To answer your original question, it might work to replace the spokes one by one, but chances are the tension will be off and you will end up with a weaker wheel regardless of how tough the new spokes are. You or your LBS is going to have to start from scratch to get a good result.

Also, one more vote for those wheels being tough as nails already. My rear touring wheel is exactly what you're about to buy, and many people use a similar setup for cyclocross.
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Old 11-06-08, 06:44 PM   #22
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You are kidding, right. This is just a test...
No test!

I went ahead and puchased the wheels. How did I do?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370107964349

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Old 11-06-08, 06:51 PM   #23
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No test!

I went ahead and puchased the wheels. How did I do?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370107964349

Michael
You probably don't want to know, but not that well.

http://store.bicyclewheels.com/merch...egory_Code=RWN

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...TOKEN=97733191
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Old 11-06-08, 06:57 PM   #24
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You probably don't want to know, but not that well.
True, but not that bad.

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Old 11-06-08, 08:11 PM   #25
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As was already stated, it would probably make sense to take then up to the LBS and have the tension double checked before you start riding them.
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