Handlebar help
#1
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Handlebar help
Say I need some advice on how to remove these handlebars. On the arm rests it says profile. I'd like to put on drop bars.[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]
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Look under the foam bar padding at the very front of the bars. The U-shaped end connector piece probably removes giving you open ends on both sides.
BTW, substituting drop bars is going to be far more complex (and expensive) than just replacing the handlebars. Do a search as this topic has been beaten to death here more than once.
BTW, substituting drop bars is going to be far more complex (and expensive) than just replacing the handlebars. Do a search as this topic has been beaten to death here more than once.
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Thanks for the post, I was thinking of swapping them out when I can find a suitable donor bike. The trouble is I'll probably fall in love with the donor bike and keep it.
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I had those bars when I built up my first road bike back in 1995. HillRider is right about the location of the U-shaped connector. If I remember, that front piece wasn't very long, it probably doesn't extend very far under the foam padding.
Not sure I agree with HillRider about the expense in this case. Presumably your stem has a 26.0mm clamp (possibly 25.4) and you can get road bars with either clamp diameter pretty cheaply.
Since this bike has down-tube shifters, the only other things you'd need to get are brake levers and new handlebar tape. Oh, and new brake cables since the mountain bike brake levers currently mounted on those bars have a different cable-end. You'll be fine with the current cable housing as they look slightly longer than is necessary for a road bar.
Not sure I agree with HillRider about the expense in this case. Presumably your stem has a 26.0mm clamp (possibly 25.4) and you can get road bars with either clamp diameter pretty cheaply.
Since this bike has down-tube shifters, the only other things you'd need to get are brake levers and new handlebar tape. Oh, and new brake cables since the mountain bike brake levers currently mounted on those bars have a different cable-end. You'll be fine with the current cable housing as they look slightly longer than is necessary for a road bar.
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
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Thanks for posting. I did not know mtb brake cables have different cable ends. Always good to know in advance.
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New brifters are always a big expense in these conversions and are often the deal breaker.
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Thanks guys. Here are some more pics.
Last edited by RonH; 11-10-08 at 03:41 PM.
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I think it's a pretty bike, a nice (probably pretty basic) steel frame and functional parts (looks like SunTour). Don't break the bank, but you can get a handlebar, brake levers, new bar tape and brake cables for probably $70 new and less if you go used or eBay or have a local bike co-op.
Totally reminds me of my first build of my Raleigh from 1995 to 1997, because I had those bars (in day-glo yellow) with mtb brake levers and down-tube shifters.
Also, it looks like an older leather saddle- you might want to use some leather conditioner on it, and maybe add some tension by tightening the bolt if the saddle sags too much in the center (but be way careful with this, and you can read lots of other threads on tension in leather saddles).
Totally reminds me of my first build of my Raleigh from 1995 to 1997, because I had those bars (in day-glo yellow) with mtb brake levers and down-tube shifters.
Also, it looks like an older leather saddle- you might want to use some leather conditioner on it, and maybe add some tension by tightening the bolt if the saddle sags too much in the center (but be way careful with this, and you can read lots of other threads on tension in leather saddles).
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#9
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I believe those are 1-piece handlebars. You have to remove the grips & brakes from one side completely. Then remove the stem from the fork and slide it out the free side. May need to rotate stem to get around some of the curves.
Last edited by DannoXYZ; 11-10-08 at 05:17 PM.
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Then, of course, the OP will have to completely remove the bar padding, arm rest and brake lever from one side to remove them.
Of course, he could just hacksaw the stem clamp to free them.
#13
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There's a U-shape piece at the top. It's interchangeable with another piece that holds bar-end shifters. Remove the forward grips and you should see how it attaches.
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Thanks for the input. Here is a pic of the same bars set up different than mine. Maybe I should ...[IMG][/IMG]