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  1. #1
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    breaking a cassette apart

    im doing a single speed conversion to a 7speed casette.

    the cassette seems to be held togather with 4 pins that run through the sprockets and spacers. the pins apear to have a head on them, but they are very flush with the surface of the bigest sprocket.


    whats the best method/tools to cut the heads off to bust this thing apart?

  2. #2
    Nut infinityeye's Avatar
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    unscrew if a decent cassette. punch out if a cheape

  3. #3
    Commuter mikejavo's Avatar
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    Some cassettes use a very small metric hex, probably 1, 1.5 or 2mm. I do remember taking one apart this way. It could have been a SRAM.

  4. #4
    50000 Guatts of power 127.0.0.1's Avatar
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    big flat blade screwdriver and wedge the big ring off the rivets

    then do the rest. it'll come apart


    a cool idea is get 2 identical sprockets a few teeth bigger than your singlespeed gear
    you will use, and grind off the teeth so they are smooth. and use those with spacers around your
    singlespeed gear. looks mint and acts as a chain guide. it takes 2 donor cassettes though...
    I like fat bikes
    and I cannot lie.

  5. #5
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    theres no hex, theyre just flat topped heads. theyre too flush to get underneith.

    127.0.0.1- what, do i just lever the biggest ring off until the head of the pins breaks?

    why would i need a guide? seems a bit pointless too me, as long as the chainline is correct there shouldnt be any chance of it coming off, therefore neagting the need for a guide.

  6. #6
    cycles per second Gonzo Bob's Avatar
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    Cassette assemblies are held together by hex head screws (usually 4mm), allen head screws (usually 2mm), or rivets. Note that 2mm allen head screws may look like rivets. If yours has rivets, file or grind off, or drill out the heads.

  7. #7
    Call me The Breeze I_bRAD's Avatar
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    drill them out. Prying off the big cog is a hack job.
    You can buy shimano bmx cogs for $5 at your LBS. They work better than a separated cassette.

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    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    Even if your eyes are fine and age hasn't hardened the lens in your eyes - reading glasses can come in handy for fine work on bicycles. Such as distinguishing a 2mm hex-bolt from a rivet. And you can better brow-beat people with glasses on. LOL.
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

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    i dont think you are getting me here, they are flat headed, there is no hex anywhere near the cassette.

    i could use a bmx cog but whats the point when i can just use these? i also need the spacers inside the cassette to get the chainline correct. im going to try drilling them out or just attackthing them with whatever power tool i can lay my hands on if that doesnt work. .

  10. #10
    I have senior moments... bikinfool's Avatar
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    What other spacers are you going to use aside from the ones from the cassette? If the cog from the cassette is ramped then a single speed cog would work better.
    suum quique
    Mountain bikes: Santa Cruz Hecklers (99, 02, 07), Santa Cruz Nomad, Moots YBB, Trek OCLV Pro Issue, American Breezer
    Road bikes: TST, Trek 2300 (Carbon/Alum)

  11. #11
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by melon View Post
    i dont think you are getting me here, they are flat headed, there is no hex anywhere near the cassette.

    i could use a bmx cog but whats the point when i can just use these? i also need the spacers inside the cassette to get the chainline correct. im going to try drilling them out or just attackthing them with whatever power tool i can lay my hands on if that doesnt work. .
    All you need to do is drill the flat-head part off, maybe just 1-2mm will do it. Then the entire cluster comes apart and you can pick and choose the pieces you want. In certain impatient times, I've just used a chisel and whacked the flat heads of the rivets off (be careful of where the chisel ends up afterwards).

  12. #12
    Senior Member capwater's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by melon View Post
    i dont think you are getting me here, they are flat headed, there is no hex anywhere near the cassette.

    i could use a bmx cog but whats the point when i can just use these? i also need the spacers inside the cassette to get the chainline correct. im going to try drilling them out or just attackthing them with whatever power tool i can lay my hands on if that doesnt work. .
    Little grinding with a dremel, then punch out the pin. yer done.

  13. #13
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    One other consideration: not all cogs are "full plate", that is usable by themselves. Some cogs are mounted in groups on a spider and the individual cogs have open centers that won't work on the hub splines by themselves. Be sure any cog you want to use can be mounted as an individual.

  14. #14
    50000 Guatts of power 127.0.0.1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by melon View Post
    theres no hex, theyre just flat topped heads. theyre too flush to get underneith.

    127.0.0.1- what, do i just lever the biggest ring off until the head of the pins breaks?

    why would i need a guide? seems a bit pointless too me, as long as the chainline is correct there shouldnt be any chance of it coming off, therefore neagting the need for a guide.
    yes pry the big ring off and bust the pins


    you don't need a guide, but it 'looks' bad a** if you have shiny drilled rings with the teeth ground off.
    I like fat bikes
    and I cannot lie.

  15. #15
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    hes got a 7 speed. So is unlikely that there will be a metal spider holding the big cogs.

    maybe a real spider though

  16. #16
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    File off the rivet heads. They're SOFT steel, so it only takes 1-2 minutes each. Then they'll punch out easily!

    The only thing I wonder about is you said 4 rivets instead of 3. I've NEVER seen 4!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by griftereck View Post
    hes got a 7 speed. So is unlikely that there will be a metal spider holding the big cogs.

    maybe a real spider though
    Right, all 7-speed cassettes I've ever seen are all "full plate" cogs. i missed the 7-speed part initially.

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