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  1. #1
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    Road bike rear derailleur 32T

    Hi hope all are great... I have looked, I have googled now I am here to get the straight dope.
    What was is a great rear derailleur for road bikes with say a Sram 11-32 tooth cassette?


    thanks a ton rc
    Last edited by rc50; 12-08-08 at 01:42 PM. Reason: misspelled word

  2. #2
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    Use a long cage derailleur. Roger

  3. #3
    Arsehole PlatyPius's Avatar
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    Shimano XTR, XT, LX, or Deore (MTB)

    I'm not aware of any road derailleurs that will technically work with a 32 tooth.

    That being said, I used a Tiagra rear derailleur with a 34 tooth on my Marin.

  4. #4
    Arsehole PlatyPius's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhenning View Post
    Use a long cage derailleur. Roger
    So a Dura Ace long cage WILL work with a 32? I've never tried it, and it isn't something we get asked for a lot. lol

  5. #5
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    I have a Shimano Deore LX with a long cage, that would work ?


    rc

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    Sometimes there are specific issues having to do with a cog being just too huge, but most of the time a derailer is limited by the amount of slack it can take up-- the difference between the number of teeth in the two biggest rings and the number in the two smallest rings.

    If you have a "road triple" derailer, you can probably run a double and an 11-32 cassette with no problem if you avoid cross chaining. 1x9 would be bombproof. Sheldon Brown's got a more detailed explanation somewhere...

  7. #7
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    Hi thanks a ton for the info
    I plan to use a 11-32 rear and a 47/30t double front

    what do you think ?

    rc

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rc50 View Post
    I have a Shimano Deore LX with a long cage, that would work ?


    rc
    LX will work with any combination.

  9. #9
    me have long head tube TallRider's Avatar
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    Shimano rear derailers for the road-bike market are all rated to a max cog of 27t. In practice, they can work with larger cogs, but 32t would really be pushing it.
    Unless you have a road rear derailer sitting around that you may as well test on your setup, you should just buy a Shimano mtb-marketed rear derailer, nearly all of which are now rated to 34t large cog.

    I like your proposed setup, that's a super gearing range for a double.
    With that wide of a gearing range, you'd need a long-cage rear derailer to take up the chain slack anyway so you're not giving up anything by going with a "mountain" rear derailer instead of a "road".

    My Schwinn commuter runs a 40t single chainring over a 13-32 7-speed cassette for a simple but very effective commuting drivetrain. I use a mountain bike rear derailer, although with the single chainring I don't actually need the long cage to take up that much chain slack. You will with a 17t difference in chainrings.

  10. #10
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    thanks for that info... I am using a Stronglight model 99 with that 47/30t. I am in upstate SC and do have lots of hills. I am 51 too and just want something to ride with my wife on longer rides... I ride an old single speed I made up mostly. Campy crank with a 55t ring and 21t white industies freewheel... I enjoy it alot, but know I need a geared bike for longer rides with lots of hills....

    again thanks a ton

    rc

  11. #11
    me have long head tube TallRider's Avatar
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    Yeah, you'll be fine with your LX rear derailer. Happy riding with the wife.
    I live in central NC and it's rolling hilly here, nothing too long so I can get by on my fixed-gear but for longer rides (and most rides with other people) it definitely pays to have gearing range.

  12. #12
    Senior Member rishardh's Avatar
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    Hi there rc... just curious. What FD have you got. How is the jump from 30T to 47T. I am thinking of a 30/44 front and 11-28 rear setup for our tandem. I'd like to go 30/48 front but afraid the gap might be too big for an ultegra FD to handle.

  13. #13
    Call me The Breeze I_bRAD's Avatar
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    FWIW, I run 24-48 on the front and 11-28 on the back with a sora FD and it works just great.

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    Well as far as front derailleurs I just looked and I have a Suntour SuperBe Pro or a Cyclone II
    I'll try the SuperBe first if it works ok will keep it.

    rc

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    Hell bent for pleather fatsoforgotso's Avatar
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    I've ran these combinations and it has always shifted flawlessly:

    A) Shimano 105 8sp brifters + 53/39 crankset + 105 FD + XT M772 long cage (SGS) + 11-32 8sp cogs
    B) Shimano Dura Ace 9sp downtube shifters + 44/36 crankset + the same 105 FD + the same XT M772 + 11-32 9sp cogs

    It was the late great Sheldon Brown that told me the brifters would work with the XT RD and large cassette. The 53/39 with a 12-23 cassette was killing me before the switch to A)

  16. #16
    Real Men Ride Ordinaries fuzz2050's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by I_bRAD View Post
    FWIW, I run 24-48 on the front and 11-28 on the back with a sora FD and it works just great.
    What cranks are you using? I'm searching for a reasonably elegant way to run the same gearing (ok, a 34 in back, but it's on a touring bike), but the only things i can come up with are 2 of 3 on a triple and a TA.

    The 2 of 3 would work, but I hate the look of the bare chain ring tab.

    TA's and their clones are just expensive.

    Do you have some brilliant idea I just haven't thought of? Please tell me you do.

  17. #17
    Call me The Breeze I_bRAD's Avatar
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    This is my touring/commuter too. It's old (92ish) deore triple cranks 110x5. Why can't you run a triple?

  18. #18
    Real Men Ride Ordinaries fuzz2050's Avatar
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    I could run a triple, but it's just a waste of the middle chainring. On most terrain I stay in my 48, but there are those times when you just need lower gears. The middle chainring doesn't help me any, so why should i bother with it?

  19. #19
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    Assuming you have Shimano shifters you need a Shimano mountain bike rear derailleur.
    If you have SRAM shifters with a 1:1 ratio you will need a SRAM mountain bike rear derailleur.

    Al
    Last edited by Al1943; 12-08-08 at 09:07 PM.

  20. #20
    Arsehole PlatyPius's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzz2050 View Post
    I could run a triple, but it's just a waste of the middle chainring. On most terrain I stay in my 48, but there are those times when you just need lower gears. The middle chainring doesn't help me any, so why should i bother with it?
    My Bianchi San Remo has the old "half-step" triple setup. It's a Sugino crank with a 52-48-30 on it. I use a 12-27 ultegra cassette with a Deore rear and a Shimano 600 front. All is controlled by a set of Dura-Ace 10 speed bar ends. Obviously, the 52-27 or 52-25 are impossible. All of the other combinations work, though.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rc50 View Post
    Hi hope all are great... I have looked, I have googled now I am here to get the straight dope.
    What was is a great rear derailleur for road bikes with say a Sram 11-32 tooth cassette?

    thanks a ton rc
    I have a "touring" setup that I am running on my road bike with a 10spd Centaur triple Group. I am using a long cage Centaur Road RD with a 11-34t SRAM 9spd cassette. I found a Centaur hub with a Shimano hub body on eBay. I know there are some aftermarket hub bodies available. The combination works like a champ. The remainder of the specs are: Campy Triple crankset 28/39/50t (28 and 39t chain rings are T/A Specialties), Centaur Ergo shifters 10speed setup for the 9 spd cassette using the limit set screws (pitch is nearly identical to the DA / Ultegra 9spd cassettes). I am using a SRAM 995 chain. Although this setup sounds strange it is smooth as glass once it is set up.

    I helped a friend setup a similar setup with Shimano using a 105 group with a Longcage RD. Works very well. The 105 was from a setup he had since the mid 90s. I don't think Shimano has a Road RD other than the Mid Cage type. A neighbor had an LX derailluer installed with her Ultegra 9 speed group. A good starting point for compatibility information is Sheldon Brown's site (RIP).

  22. #22
    Senior Member rishardh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by I_bRAD View Post
    FWIW, I run 24-48 on the front and 11-28 on the back with a sora FD and it works just great.
    Wow! Thats a 24T jump. I guess I am over thinking the 18T jump I had in mind. I will go for it and give it a shot.

  23. #23
    Real Men Ride Ordinaries fuzz2050's Avatar
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    Just remember, although a larger jump may mean slightly poorer shifting, it also means your going to be shifting a lot less, so its less of an issue. Do it and never look back!

  24. #24
    Call me The Breeze I_bRAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rishardh View Post
    Wow! Thats a 24T jump. I guess I am over thinking the 18T jump I had in mind. I will go for it and give it a shot.
    To be fair, there's a 38T in the middle, although I've seen some old touring doubles with a similar jump.

  25. #25
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    Hi thanks a ton for all the great info...
    What I am trying to do is set something up that will give me some go when I need it and help me climb hills as well. I really am not one that needs to go 40 miles an hour down a hill My wife likes that lol, but me too many old bones that hurt when they break I don't need more pins in my body
    I think I am going to try a 45 / 30 double. I have a 45 and a 47 for this stronglight 99 crankset and if that is not what I want I'll try the 47 or the 52 lol i have a 36t chainring as well so i can mix and match til i get it right... I just want a double. I don' do alot of shifting.... I am a smell the roses bike rider now days over "wow man I just blew right by that guy" bike rider

    thanks a ton again

    rc

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