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  1. #1
    Rumblefish jtarver's Avatar
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    27" Nexus wheel?

    Anyone aware of a 27" wheel with 7 or 8 speed Nexus? Can't find a source, otherwise I'm planning to build up a set with some Nasbar rims. Any thoughts?
    1973 Crescent Pepita FG, 1987 Panasonic DX-4000, 1991 Trek 1400 FG, 1990's Gary Fisher Hoo-Koo-e-Koo SS, 1990's Denti Road Tech Five, 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker

  2. #2
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    That would be a custom job, but entirely doable. Dunno what 27" rims Nashbar puts their brand on, but Sun CR18s are available in 27", and about the best option I am aware of in 27". Should be available just about anywhere.

  3. #3
    I live in a bicycle. smovlov's Avatar
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    +1 on the cr18s.
    I think further therefore I go farther.
    1979 Motobecane Le Champion, 1972 Schwinn Super Sport, 1985 Nishiki Cresta GT

  4. #4
    reTIRED JustCruisin's Avatar
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    Been considering the same thing the only problems I've seen is a 36 spoke rim. Thinking of putting it on my puch mixte. let us know how it works.
    It's Not the destination, It's the Ride.

  5. #5
    Rumblefish jtarver's Avatar
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    The CR-18s are a "3 box" design and look tougher than the Nashbars, but at $15 I'm having a hard time passing them up! I'm pretty light, so I'll prob go with the cheapies.Especially since I'm having some sticker shock on the Nexus stuff.
    1973 Crescent Pepita FG, 1987 Panasonic DX-4000, 1991 Trek 1400 FG, 1990's Gary Fisher Hoo-Koo-e-Koo SS, 1990's Denti Road Tech Five, 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker

  6. #6
    surly old man jgedwa's Avatar
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    As a fellow cheapie, I hear what you are saying.

    But, don't be penny-wise and pound foolish here. Spending some considerable coin for a Nexus hub (and shifters and all that) and maybe paying to have it laced up (or maybe just for the spokes if you do that yourself). So, another 10 or 20 bucks on a cheaper rim is questionable. A main appeal of IGH is that they are bombproof. I would not want to substantially comprimise that with a cruddy rim.

    I do not know the Nashbar rim. Maybe it is great. But don't do it just because it is a little cheaper.

    Also, can you go 700 rims? Opens up lots of possibilities if you can.

    jim
    Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
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  7. #7
    Real Men Ride Ordinaries fuzz2050's Avatar
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    Nothing wrong with 27 inch wheels, I actually kinda like them. The selection of tires is the only problem, and not that there aren't great 27 X 1 1/4 tires, but there aren't any 27 by 2 1/4 tires, and nor many on the smaller side either. If you already have the wheel, they work fine, but if you had to build up a wheel from scratch, give 700c a chance.

  8. #8
    Rumblefish jtarver's Avatar
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    Building up a '76 Super Course MKII into a city bike. Moustache bars,by the way has anyone used brifters on a moustache? Anyway, the Raleigh does not accept a 700 wheel without a lot of unsightly emptiness behind the seat tube and an insanely long reach rear brake(again,really stupid looking). I prefer to go with a 27x 1 1/8" wheel for this build. I'm dead set on doing it this way, Nexus hub with 27x1 1/8" rim. I'm interested in doing the hub brake version if I can swing it.
    1973 Crescent Pepita FG, 1987 Panasonic DX-4000, 1991 Trek 1400 FG, 1990's Gary Fisher Hoo-Koo-e-Koo SS, 1990's Denti Road Tech Five, 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker

  9. #9
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    If you're considering a hub brake, a better option would be the Sram S7 Drum brake variant. More efficient shifting and a better brake than Shimano's roller brake, all at a lower weight.
    Internal Gear Hub Guru
    Currently owned hubs: Sachs Pentasport, SRAM P5 Drum, Sturmey SRF5-W , Sturmey XRD3
    Previously owned hubs: Shimano Nexus 8 speed, Sturmey AW 3 speed, Shimano 3 speed coaster, SRAM S7 Drum, Sturmey XRF8 8 speed
    Tested hubs: SRAM i-Motion 9 speed, Sturmey XRD5

  10. #10
    Rumblefish jtarver's Avatar
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    Good call on the on Sram, can you let me know if this is what you're referring to:
    http://elitecycling.com/page.cfm?Pag...ils&sku=HU2540
    Seems like a good deal.
    1973 Crescent Pepita FG, 1987 Panasonic DX-4000, 1991 Trek 1400 FG, 1990's Gary Fisher Hoo-Koo-e-Koo SS, 1990's Denti Road Tech Five, 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker

  11. #11
    surly old man jgedwa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtarver View Post
    Good call on the on Sram, can you let me know if this is what you're referring to:
    http://elitecycling.com/page.cfm?Pag...ils&sku=HU2540
    Seems like a good deal.

    I like that Sram hub. I suspect it will not be cheaper anywhere else. Does that thing come with the clickbox however? I suspect it does. But I would make sure it does. That is another $40-50, unfortunately, if it does not. And they are hard to find.

    jim

    p.s., while I am thinking about it, the plastic clickbox hanging outboard of the dropouts is the one worry I have about the Sram. I have not broken one off, but it seems easy to do. And the only real advantage is that if you have to remove the wheel (to change a flat or for transit) you do not have to readjust the cable. That is a small advantage compared to the precarious position of the clickbox, in my opinion. Its not like the Nexus is hard to readjust afterall. Seems like a solution looking for a problem.
    Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
    --------------------------
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  12. #12
    Senior Member
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    The hub comes with a metal clickbox protector. On my S7's it has proven to be more than sufficient.

    The hub does not ship with clickbox/shifter. Both clickbox and shifter do come together, however, when you purchase the shifter.

    Note that the S7 i-Brake variant does not come with the hub brake. You'll have to purchase the i-Brake separately to go with the hub if you decide to go that route and bolt it to the hub.

    The drum brake version, however, comes with the brake integrated into the hub.
    Internal Gear Hub Guru
    Currently owned hubs: Sachs Pentasport, SRAM P5 Drum, Sturmey SRF5-W , Sturmey XRD3
    Previously owned hubs: Shimano Nexus 8 speed, Sturmey AW 3 speed, Shimano 3 speed coaster, SRAM S7 Drum, Sturmey XRF8 8 speed
    Tested hubs: SRAM i-Motion 9 speed, Sturmey XRD5

  13. #13
    Senior Member badmother's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgedwa View Post
    p.s., while I am thinking about it, the plastic clickbox hanging outboard of the dropouts is the one worry I have about the Sram. I have not broken one off, but it seems easy to do. And the only real advantage is that if you have to remove the wheel (to change a flat or for transit) you do not have to readjust the cable. That is a small advantage compared to the precarious position of the clickbox, in my opinion. Its not like the Nexus is hard to readjust afterall. Seems like a solution looking for a problem.
    This is my main reason for liking the Nexus so much. I do not like anything fragile or bulky sticking out on the side of the bike. I find there is no reason to adjust the cable after remowing the wheel.

    Also you can use a wingnut and a washer to secure the "brake arm" to the chainstay. Less tools needed.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    You can buy a handbuilt wheel with a Nexus Alfine 8 speed hub, DT Competition spokes and Sun CR-18 rim from Harris Cyclery for $300. The matching front wheel with a Deore hub is $60.

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