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  1. #1
    Buh'wah?! Amani576's Avatar
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    Nervous about building my first set of wheels...

    I know, this is probably normal, possibly even for experienced builders (especially when building for themselves, funded by themselves).
    I've got a few questions, but, first some info.
    What I'm building is 700c, 3x, 32 Spoke wheels, potentially with Phil Wood hubs and definitely Black Mavic OpenPro's. The Phil Wood's will be 126mm thread on Field Serviceable types - HERE and the matching front hub - HERE
    Ok... so... I'd like some tips, any you've got.
    These won't be my FIRST-first wheels (if that makes any sense). They'll be my first built wheels I'll ride. Currently I've got two wheels off an old Schwinn that I'm spending time dismantling, then relacing, then retruing. Trying to do the best job I can in that process. I know this is probably a good idea, and good practice. I've got a truing stand, The Minoura Pro stand, so, I'm not doing this the less advisable way between the brake calipers. I've also got one book (The Art Of Wheelbuilding), and just printed out the entire about wheelbuilding from Sheldon Brown, so, I've got good ideas, and advice. Though, I plan on getting "The Bicycle Wheel" soon, as well.
    I'd just like some tips in being sure of spoke length, truing radially and laterally, and (while it's hard to give advice on it) being confident in your wheels.
    I'm hope I'm not coming off as whiny or anything, I'm just new to this, and would rather have new wheels over old ones that I'm not sure where, or what, they've been through (that and finding new thread on wheels is nigh impossible).
    Thanks all. Any help or suggestions will be much appreciated.
    -Gene-

  2. #2
    Senior Member embankmentlb's Avatar
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    The thing is "just do it". Keep a set of built wheels handy for comparison.

  3. #3
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    http://www.bbinstitute.com/DX%20Demo%20Chap%2017.pdf
    Read sections on stabilzing the build and tension balance.
    You need to get the spokes in the positions where they will stay even after dynamic loads.
    Bedding the spokes into the hub spoke holes and getting the rim eyelets "squished" by the nipples such that the spokes are aligned in such a way that they follow paths like threads (or strings).
    The idea is to get spokes positioned at the asymptotic limit.

  4. #4
    aspiring bike mechanic leweee's Avatar
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    +1 on the link above.

    try to pick a time when you will have the least distractions.
    good luck & most of all have fun.....wheel building can be a great confidants builder.
    Derailleur!!!! Hell, I just meet her.

  5. #5
    Senior Member CrankyFranky's Avatar
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    Hey Gene-

    I built my wheelsets long before spoke tensioners were on the market; I've ridden my wheels 10s of thousands of touring laden miles with no probs. This has got to have been the most satisfying few hours I've ever spent in wrenching. There's something mystical about getting those parts to be so perfectly round and true!

    You've started out right, by reading up - good references.

    You're best bet is to compare spoke length specs from two different sources.

    In lacing, pay attention to your consistency when crossing spokes - do them over or under in the same direction - and watch that pesky stem hole - your spokes should diverge from it.

    Above all, just TAKE YOUR TIME! Once you have the lacing done and you start tensioning, do it in decreasing increments - turn the nipples less as you go on. While you are doing this, widen your attention from pairs of opposing spokes to groups of four, then six or eight when truing - in other words, don't focus on just an opposing nipple pair when truing an almost fully tensioned wheel. All the while, use your thumb and middle finger as a bridge to feel the tension between the opposing sides. Pluck each spoke - front should have all the spokes sounding the same pitch. The rear spokes should sound the same on one side.

    If you need to take a break, use pieces of masking tape on spokes to tell you where you left off. Stop when you get tired, and leave it for another day when you are fresh and focused.

    Don't forget to stress relieve the spokes on the hub before you approach final tensioning, or you'll end up doing it over. Try not to put too much pressure as you press down on opposite sides of the rim though. You'll hear the pinging.

    Too tight is almost worse than too loose, as once you've distorted the rim ferrules (if you have 'em) it's only downhill from there.

    Again, take it easy and ENJOY!
    69 Raleigh Sports, '72 Atala Record, '82 Stan Pike

  6. #6
    Domestic Domestique UnsafeAlpine's Avatar
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    Jeez...I just guessed and built a helluva rear mtb wheel.

    Don't worry about it. Just do it.

  7. #7
    Senior Member z415's Avatar
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    ^ I did that too. For a set. Took too much time though.

    Good luck.
    Falling is learning...[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]...learn to not fall in a box.
    Any good American will watch THIS -and- WHERE WAS MY BIKE MADE?

  8. #8
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by embankmentlb View Post
    The thing is "just do it". Keep a set of built wheels handy for comparison.
    "Just do it." That's what I think too.

    Working with good quality components will be a lot easier to do than the relaceing that you've already done with your junk wheels.

    My one piece of advice is not to try to build up the tension too fast. If you "walk" the tension up evenly on each spoke it'll keep the rim rounder and you'll have a much easier time with the final trueing.

  9. #9
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    Three words: Take it slow. Speed comes with experience. So take your time and have fun! You've got the right resources, and a forum here to help you. We all started at the beginning.
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

  10. #10
    otherwiseordinary lymbzero's Avatar
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