Klein Internal Routing Tube BROKEE!!! HELP!
 

OH NO MY BELOVED KLEIN! =( i have a 97 quantum race <3 but recently i was changing the cables out with some newer dura ace cables and external housings but as i was routing the cable through the frame for the rear derailleur i noticed the cable wasn't coming out! the top internal housing must have come off from the insert spot! what do i do now? suggestions? KLEINS OUT OF BUSINESS i cant even call them for their opinion... could my lbs replace it?

With persistence, you can usually run the cables through. I've routed internal cable bikes that don't have guides inside the tube and have to say its the worst job ever but its doable.

Or its a good excuse to buy a new bike.

use a strong magnet to guide the cable to the hole. I owned a klein for years and never used the guide tubes. it may take a couple of tries, but you'll get it.

Do a search for "internal cable routing" and you'll find several techniques for threading cables through blind toptube holes including the "thread and vacuum cleaner" approach.

BTW, Trek is the owner of Klein and they may help if the frame is really beyond use.

well is there anyway i can buy new inserts? or reattach it? i want to fix the problem. using the magnet and all that will be my plan b. can i call trek and order cable lines or something? i just called my LBS and they said most people take em out. how many of you guys take em out? my rear brake and front derailleurs didnt seem to have this problem... those internal guide tubes stayed in... can i replace the internal guide tube? or is it virtually impossible?

Is there another way to run the cables? A photo or 3 would help.

I use the internal housings just to get everything threaded and then I rip them out. Always re-install them when you are running new cables to guide the new cables in. I know that doesn't help you, but like everyone has said, with a little persistence, you can get them to thread without the guides.

Geesh! And ya wonder why Klein went out of business and Trek ate them...

Okay: I agree with the others who said you can do it again - but it will take a long time of trial and error. Magnets may help. And it may break the next day.

Or you can attach some cable-guides (look around) with some housing and rebuild the cable routing. The general idea being to get the cable from shifter to BB under-shell guides. Bit of housing. Twist. Run. Done.

That's a nice Klein frame. Good blue. I'd suggest yellow housing. Good offset. Just because Klein wanted things to go through the downtube don't make it urgent.

Do you know for a fact that there was a cable sleeve on the rear derailer cable before changing the cable? If you shake the bike can you hear it flopping around in the down tube?

The openings don't look all that different to me. It almost looks like a cable sleeve could fit in there. Some bike shops have the sleeving in stock, it's kinda rare, however.

Better pic required for BB ID. Almost look like wrenchflats on the fixed cup, but hard to tell from that pic. A pic from the other side of the bike might be easier.

Not addressing your real problem but taking off your fork will require removing the headset's compression ring first. It's the silver-colored split ring right up against the steerer tube in your picture. The ring is tapered and is installed narrow end down to center the steerer in the bearings and does tend to get wedged in place. Work a very small blade screwdriver into the split and gently pull it up to loosen the grip.

Your steerer seems to be either steel or aluminum so you can rap on the top with a mallet to start it moving. Use a block of wood to protect the top of the steerer.

thank you very much. sorry guys for asking so many questions in that one post im glad you guys are picking them out one at a time and helping me out. ill try removing the steering tube and see if i have a hole there... anyone know the answer to how i'll be able to get the guides out from within my frame though?

I have bought klein frames from ebay & such that had no cables installed. The method that works best for me is to use a needle & sewing thread. Drop the the needle in one hole & carefully use gravity to guide it out the bigger hole. Believe me it can be done. Once you have the cables in place, sleeve them as others have suggested. You actually can get by with only one sleeve to do all cables. I would not go to the trouble to remove the fork.

Well, IF you have concluded that there is indeed a cable sleeve loose in your downtube, and you wind up finding a hole in your headtube/downtube joint, then shake the frame 'til the sleeve comes into the headtube through the hole. Get some long needlenose pliers, tweezers, parts grabber, hemos, tongs, chopsticks, etc and pull it out.

Otherwise try to shake it out through the little hole down by the bottom bracket.

OR, if still no joy, perhaps the Downtube/BB shell joint has a hole, then you can remove your BB and try to yank it outta there.

YES!!! so tonight i chizzled off the steering tube stopper ring (im probably going to need a new one now) and sure enough there were two dime sized holes for the top tube and the bottom tube. they were small but i was determined! so i shook shook shook like i had no tomorrow and WHATTA YA KNOW! with one last good shake it luckily came through the hole! so i very carefully got a pair of long needle nose pliers grapsed and pushed it out! worked like a charm tomorrow im going to my LBS and trying to get another long nylon guide tube so perhaps i can fit my top tube with a guide for the rear brake. using magnets was the working trick for me to get the wires guided to the other end of the holes... had to use pretty strong magnets though (35 lb's).

That's great!

Shame about the compression ring. It looks like they're readily available online for about 5 bones, probably at good bike shops, too.

when i get a new one how do i tighten it back down? tap it lightly from each side?

No, don't drive it down. Install the compression ring (narrow end facing down, of course) and just push it into place by hand. It will center the steerer in the bearings properly as you adjust the headset play with the top cap's bolt. That's all it needs to do.

Consider going with a cable system that can have a single full length liner (like Nokon). I don't know if your frame's cable openings are big enough for the nokon cable and liner as they are. A drill bit could be used to fix that problem.

Not everybody likes Nokons, and fewer think they're worth the cost. I love 'em.

Anytime you are faced with such, and the solution appears that a few good raps with a hammer would be the solution - please remember that bicycles are not cars. You walk by a car garage: BAM! BAM! VRRRRAAAAAA!! BAM!...so forth. Only rarely do you hear a hammer, or other driver-tools, at work around bikes. Bikes require more finesse and delicate approaches. So I am very glad you asked before you went forward.

Bicycle mechanics are closer to being an artist. Car mechanics are closer to sporting enthusiasts. The users are the full spectrum.

ahah thanks for understanding that its better to ask first than just simply flaming me. MERRY CHRISTMAS guys.

so i found this nokon idea really interesting [link] the guy used teflon cable throughout the entire run of the cable. is this overdoing it? currently the two front and rear derailleurs on my bike have teflon guides perminately fabricated into the frame, so that you can automatically string the cables through the lines... what about the rear brake guide :-P