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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 12-22-08, 03:41 PM   #1
dprayvd
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8spd freehub with 7spd cluster?

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Old 12-22-08, 03:45 PM   #2
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According to Sheldon, all you need to do is add a 4.5 mm spacer.
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Old 12-22-08, 04:36 PM   #3
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Old 12-22-08, 04:57 PM   #4
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No problem, any time I can pass along the wisdom of someone else, I'll do it!
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Old 12-22-08, 05:54 PM   #5
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Actually there's a bit more to it than that.

If you examine your cassette carefully you may find that it's held together with some small bolts or rivets that project out on the back side. The typical 4.5mm spacer will interfere with those. Remove the little bolts or grind off the rivet heads and, if necessary, install the cassette one cog at a time.
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Old 12-22-08, 06:23 PM   #6
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Old 12-23-08, 02:59 AM   #7
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Spacer thickness- IOW no. My LBS sells the 4.5MM spacer for $2!
http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#spacing

I've taken an "E" & an "H" to make a semi corn cob.
13-14-15-16-18-21-24

Then I found an 8 speed FH body off a junk wheel and made eight 7 speed cogs fit by thinning the spacers- (don't use power tools)
13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24. Love it!
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Old 12-23-08, 07:57 AM   #8
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Old 12-23-08, 08:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dprayvd View Post
Actually, Retro Grouch, I have already done that. I've a "modified" corncob upper 5 cogs:

12-14-15-16-18, then a 21 & 24. I lost the 28 and Dremel'd a 15 to align the ramps. The 15 is from a "M" cassette; the others from an "E."
If I get unlazy and decide to build an 8spd rig (I've a '93 Rockhopper lump waiting, but my current rig runs without problem), I'll add an 11, or perhaps a 13.

A question:

--Are the 7spd spacers the requisite 4.5mm I need? Or from something else?
Since you're already to the cassette mixing stage you probably have a drawer full of cassette spacers. The ones that go between the cogs are too narrow but I suspect that if you add one or two of the star shaped ones it'll work. The spacing between the cogs that affects the indexing is already established. All you really need to do is to fill up the space on the wider free hub body so the lock ring will keep the cassette from shifting laterally.

Actually, if it was my bike, I think that I'd transplant the narrower 7-speed freehub body onto the new wheel. You'll have to redish the wheel, of course, but that'll make it stronger.
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Old 12-23-08, 08:13 AM   #10
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