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  1. #1
    Dharmite Jaw,Knee,Music's Avatar
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    Brake line tension lost after re-wrapping bars...?

    So.... By this point I'v become pretty comfortable with working on my bike. Got some new stuff for christmas, swapped it out. But when I swapped on a new pair of bullhorn bars and re-wrapped them The brake line is no longer as tense as it was. I can pull the brake and it will operate as normal, but when I release it, it does not snap back into the original position.

    Pictures - 2 old - 1 new just to give you an idea.

    Anyone else have this same problem and know how to avoid / fix it?






  2. #2
    Primate Metzinger's Avatar
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    I think you need to bend that right side in more. If you push it in too far, then pull it back out. Repeat, with increasing speed, until you get it right.

  3. #3
    me have long head tube TallRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metzinger View Post
    I think you need to bend that right side in more. If you push it in too far, then pull it back out. Repeat, with increasing speed, until you get it right.
    +17. repetitions, that is.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    When you wraped the bars I think you must have pulled the brake housing out of its "pocket" in the brake lever so the housing and inner cable aren't lined up properly. Unwrap the bar and reseat the housing. Then rewrap carefully so as to not disturb the positioning.

  5. #5
    Gluteus Enormus mmmdonuts's Avatar
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    What HillRider said. It's easier when you have tension on the brake cable so the housing doesn't pull out of the lever. Then tape the housing to the bars to hold it in place while you wrap.
    Everybody's got plans... until they get hit.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Steev's Avatar
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    That crimp in the bar looks scary. Are you sure its meant to be that way? This picture looks like its a smooth bend.
    http://www.profile-design.com/produc...-bars/airwing/

  7. #7
    Older than dirt CCrew's Avatar
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    Yup, that bar is badly kinked. It's not supposed to be like that.

  8. #8
    Gluteus Enormus mmmdonuts's Avatar
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    SS riders are into kinky bars and stuff. Diffrn't strokes...
    Everybody's got plans... until they get hit.
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  9. #9
    Dharmite Jaw,Knee,Music's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steev View Post
    That crimp in the bar looks scary. Are you sure its meant to be that way? This picture looks like its a smooth bend.
    http://www.profile-design.com/produc...-bars/airwing/
    Hence why I replaced them. Took a spill back in October. The bottom picture has new bars. Un-Kinked. I'll try what you guys are saying, although I'm fairly sure the housing was in the pocket before I wrapped, and I did tape the housing down before wrapping.

  10. #10
    Dharmite Jaw,Knee,Music's Avatar
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    Picture Updates...






    After pulling the break it stays like this....


    Maybe scotch tape isn't a good idea, but it is all I had at the time.
    Last edited by Jaw,Knee,Music; 01-26-09 at 11:43 AM.

  11. #11
    Gluteus Enormus mmmdonuts's Avatar
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    What I can see:
    - The ferrule stayed put, that's good
    - Scotch tape is weak. Get get electrical, fiberglass, or friction (hockey) tape.
    - Missing ferrule at the brake caliper end. Adds friction.
    - Cable housing might be a bit long. Try to maintain a smooth routing, no kinky stuff.

    What I can't see:
    - Is the brake lever too tight on the pivot causing it to bind?
    - Does the brake lever have a return spring? Shimano Dual pivot brakes usually benefit from a lever return spring.
    - Are the cable and housing new or in good shape? Internal wear and fraying would make it stick.
    Last edited by mmmdonuts; 01-26-09 at 12:29 PM.
    Everybody's got plans... until they get hit.
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  12. #12
    Senior Member Steev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaw,Knee,Music View Post
    Hence why I replaced them. Took a spill back in October. The bottom picture has new bars. Un-Kinked. I'll try what you guys are saying, although I'm fairly sure the housing was in the pocket before I wrapped, and I did tape the housing down before wrapping.
    Sorry, didn't look carefully enough to note old and new pictures.
    Is it possible you've dinged the lever or base when you took the spill? It's obviously had a knock or two. See if it moves freely without the cable attached.

  13. #13
    Dharmite Jaw,Knee,Music's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steev View Post
    Sorry, didn't look carefully enough to note old and new pictures.
    Is it possible you've dinged the lever or base when you took the spill? It's obviously had a knock or two. See if it moves freely without the cable attached.
    Nope, it was working fine after the spill.

    Quote Originally Posted by mmmdonuts View Post
    What I can see:
    - The ferrule stayed put, that's good
    - Scotch tape is weak. Get get electrical, fiberglass, or friction (hockey) tape.
    - Missing ferrule at the brake caliper end. Adds friction.
    - Cable housing might be a bit long. Try to maintain a smooth routing, no kinky stuff.

    What I can't see:
    - Is the brake lever too tight on the pivot causing it to bind?
    - Does the brake lever have a return spring? Shimano Dual pivot brakes usually benefit from a lever return spring.
    - Are the cable and housing new or in good shape? Internal wear and fraying would make it stick.
    Was using electrical tape before this.
    I wouldn't think the cable length would affect it. I'm using the same bars as before.
    Yep has a spring...
    The cable did seem like it was starting to fray when I swapped it out.

    I'll see what I can do, get a second opinion from my LBS and go from there....

    Thanks.

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