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Old 01-26-09, 07:51 PM   #1
Jed19 
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Removing Dura Ace Pedals (Help)

I would like to remove my Dura-Ace 7810 pedals, but I am having problems. It has to be taken out with an 8mm wrench, but for some reason I am having a really hard time taking them off.

Anybody has some pointers that might help?

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Old 01-26-09, 07:57 PM   #2
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Are you using a pedal wrench?

Do you think the pedal is actually frozen? If you dont' have a regular pedal wrench, with a ~10-14 inch handle, you might have trouble freeing it up even if it's not frozen.

If you aren't using a pedal wrench, does the wrench you have engage the spindle bolt securely? Does it have a nice long handle so you can get enough torque to loosen a tight pedal spindle bolt?

The right pedal loosens counterclockwise, the left pedal loosens clockwise. The way I remember it is when you put the wrench on, loosen the pedal by turning the spindle bolt towards the rear of the bike (oriented from the top). Tighten the pedal by turning towards the front of the bike.

Here's a how to: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=83
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Old 01-26-09, 08:09 PM   #3
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use a good crescent wrench on the allen wrench for more leverage. As I hope you know the left pedal has left hand threads, the right pedal has right hand threads. A little grease on the pedal threads before you install them is a good idea.
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Old 01-26-09, 08:24 PM   #4
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Use an allen socket in a 1/2 ratchet.
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Old 01-26-09, 08:56 PM   #5
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Dura-Ace 7810 pedals can not be removed with pedal wrench. It has to be with 8mm hex wrenches.
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Old 01-26-09, 09:26 PM   #6
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Dura-Ace 7810 pedals can not be removed with pedal wrench. It has to be with 8mm hex wrenches.
Right but an 8 mm hex bit in a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet will provide much better leverage than a standard length L-wrench and, you have to turn them the correct direction.
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Old 01-26-09, 09:42 PM   #7
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Well, one can turn a ratchet in either direction. In this case to take the pedals off he will turn the left pedal counter clockwise (like one normally does for loosening) and the right pedal clockwise (the normal tightening direction)
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Old 01-26-09, 09:44 PM   #8
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Well, one can turn a ratchet in either direction. In this case to take the pedals off he will turn the left pedal counter clockwise (like one normally does for loosening) and the right pedal clockwise (the normal tightening direction)
Just remember that if you are working from behind the crankarm, this will be reversed (like adjusting spoke nipples).
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Old 01-26-09, 09:46 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by pacificaslim View Post
Well, one can turn a ratchet in either direction. In this case to take the pedals off he will turn the left pedal counter clockwise (like one normally does for loosening) and the right pedal clockwise (the normal tightening direction)
Uh, no. The Dura Ace's 8 mm hex is located on the inside of the pedal spindle so you have to remove them from the inside of the crank. The wrench will have to turn the other way since you are seeing the pedal from the other end.
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Old 01-26-09, 10:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacificaslim
Well, one can turn a ratchet in either direction. In this case to take the pedals off he will turn the left pedal counter clockwise (like one normally does for loosening) and the right pedal clockwise (the normal tightening direction)
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Uh, no. The Dura Ace's 8 mm hex is located on the inside of the pedal spindle so you have to remove them from the inside of the crank. The wrench will have to turn the other way since you are seeing the pedal from the other end.
Huh? pacificaslim's explanation already takes into account viewing from inboard to outboard (hex socket side) of the left pedal. As he stated "in this case", you WOULD turn the left pedal's hex socket counter clockwise to remove the pedal (same as clockwise viewed from ouboard to inboard using a pedal wrench). This is all correct for removing the left pedal.

Please explain why you "Uh, no." 'd his post. Seems to me, it was correct.
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Old 01-26-09, 10:55 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Uh, no. The Dura Ace's 8 mm hex is located on the inside of the pedal spindle so you have to remove them from the inside of the crank. The wrench will have to turn the other way since you are seeing the pedal from the other end.
Thanks. I always turn my bike upside down to work on it. I'll try and buy a 3/8" hex bit and a 3/8" drive ratchet from harborfreight tomorrow and try to have a go at it. Hopefully I'll be able to get it done.
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Old 01-26-09, 10:55 PM   #12
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Most people have hands. Why are threads called Left Hand or Right Hand? Because if you rotate a left hand thread pedal in the direction your fingers point the bolt will move in the direction your thumb is pointing. Oddly enough your right hand works for right hand threaded pedals.....
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Old 01-26-09, 11:01 PM   #13
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3/8 to 1/2 adapter will allow you to use a 1/2 ratchet (more torque). But be sure you are turning the proper direction as more torque + wrong direction = trouble.

+1 I buy my allen head sockets at Harbor Freight. They sell low end tools, but unless you are running a shop, for as often as you will use them, they are good enough.
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Old 01-26-09, 11:40 PM   #14
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With the bike upside-down, the pedals will unscrew in the same way. Left side pedal unscrews to the right - clockwise. The right (drive-side) unscrew to the left - counter-clockwise.

Careful you don't mash your cables/housing turning the bike upside-down. This is why it's generally not recommended.
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Old 01-26-09, 11:45 PM   #15
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When I take my Keo's (same configuration) off, my boss cringes. I lean the bike against the wall, put the cranks at 9 o'clock, step on the one I'm taking off and pull up on the L-arm allen key. They come right out of my 6600 (and now Red) cranks, I've done this dozens of times and have never stripped a thread.
Beware though, you could mess this up and suffer severe consequences.
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Old 01-27-09, 09:41 AM   #16
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Pedals always unscew in the same direction regardless on using an inboard or outboard wrench. Always. Threads dont magicly change form left to right or vice versa......

For typical left.right threaded pedals:

To remove pedals with either left or right hand threads put your wrench on them and move the wrench in the same direction as a bicycle wheel spinning backwards.

To install pedals with either left or right hand threads put your wrench on them and move the wrench in the same direction as a wheel spinning forwards.
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Old 01-27-09, 10:37 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by LUCAS View Post
Thanks. I always turn my bike upside down to work on it. I'll try and buy a 3/8" hex bit and a 3/8" drive ratchet from harborfreight tomorrow and try to have a go at it. Hopefully I'll be able to get it done.
Maybe fine for the socket if you're never going to use it on much else, but get the ratchet at Sears or such. Cheap ratchets fail. Sears ratchets fail too, but they replace them for free without question. Of my friends that have cheap ratchets most of them have already replaced one or two, and it's only been a coupe years. We're college students not auto mechanics so we don't use them that often either. Harbor Freight is good for some things, ratchets is not one of them (Nor their 3 foot crescent wrenches, I've seen two of those broken).
Something else you can do if you have (or can borrow) an 8mm standard socket is cut the end off of an allen wrench and put it in an 8mm socket rather than buying allen sockets.
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Old 01-27-09, 11:06 AM   #18
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Something else you can do if you have (or can borrow) an 8mm standard socket is cut the end off of an allen wrench and put it in an 8mm socket rather than buying allen sockets.
This is an excellent way to make allen bits of any size and I've done it many times. If you have duplicate sockets you can Superglue or epoxy the cut off hex in place which make them more convenient to use.

However, decent allen keys are much too hard to cut with a hacksaw unless you have a carbide blade available. I use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut allen keys. Work slowly and dip the key in water frequently to keep it cool and preserve the temper.
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Old 01-27-09, 12:36 PM   #19
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Maybe fine for the socket if you're never going to use it on much else, but get the ratchet at Sears or such. Cheap ratchets fail. Sears ratchets fail too, but they replace them for free without question. Of my friends that have cheap ratchets most of them have already replaced one or two, and it's only been a coupe years. We're college students not auto mechanics so we don't use them that often either. Harbor Freight is good for some things, ratchets is not one of them (Nor their 3 foot crescent wrenches, I've seen two of those broken).
Something else you can do if you have (or can borrow) an 8mm standard socket is cut the end off of an allen wrench and put it in an 8mm socket rather than buying allen sockets.
For once in a while use, I can't justify the Sears price. I think I'll take my chances with the Harbor Freight 1/2" Heavy Duty Quick Release Ratchet at $12.99.

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Old 01-27-09, 02:50 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by LUCAS View Post
Dura-Ace 7810 pedals can not be removed with pedal wrench. It has to be with 8mm hex wrenches.
OOPS, my bad. I +1 the suggestions to use a hex wrench on a socket drive. (I have a set of pedals with a hex-key bolt and that's how I get them off).
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Old 01-27-09, 02:54 PM   #21
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This is an excellent way to make allen bits of any size and I've done it many times. If you have duplicate sockets you can Superglue or epoxy the cut off hex in place which make them more convenient to use.

However, decent allen keys are much too hard to cut with a hacksaw unless you have a carbide blade available. I use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut allen keys. Work slowly and dip the key in water frequently to keep it cool and preserve the temper.
Or buy a set for $15.
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Old 01-27-09, 03:36 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jccaclimber View Post
Maybe fine for the socket if you're never going to use it on much else, but get the ratchet at Sears or such. Cheap ratchets fail. Sears ratchets fail too, but they replace them for free without question. Of my friends that have cheap ratchets most of them have already replaced one or two, and it's only been a coupe years. We're college students not auto mechanics so we don't use them that often either. Harbor Freight is good for some things, ratchets is not one of them (Nor their 3 foot crescent wrenches, I've seen two of those broken).
Something else you can do if you have (or can borrow) an 8mm standard socket is cut the end off of an allen wrench and put it in an 8mm socket rather than buying allen sockets.
+1 I would get a good ratchet as well. A good one will last you forever. A cheap one will frustrate you and quickly end up in the trash.
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Old 01-27-09, 04:35 PM   #23
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One way to get good tools fairly cheap is to haunt flea markets and garage sales. There is always someone selling used but good quality (not the junk) tools at low prices. I've seen Proto, SK Wayne, Craftsman and even Snap-On ratchets and sockets for a small fraction of their new price.
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Old 01-27-09, 05:58 PM   #24
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Thanks to all for your reponses. I finally got the pedals off with a regular 8mm Spin Doctor (Performance Brand) hex wrench coupled with a cheater bar. The cheater bar is an old mountain bike handlebar.

For the he** of me, I don't understand why Shimano does not give the hex wrench/pedal wrench mounting/removal option on the Dura Ace pedal the way they did with the Ultegra.

By the way, all hand tools sold by Harbor Freight are sold with lifetime warranties.

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Old 01-27-09, 06:30 PM   #25
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Pedals always unscew in the same direction regardless on using an inboard or outboard wrench. Always. Threads dont magicly change form left to right or vice versa......

For typical left.right threaded pedals:

To remove pedals with either left or right hand threads put your wrench on them and move the wrench in the same direction as a bicycle wheel spinning backwards.

To install pedals with either left or right hand threads put your wrench on them and move the wrench in the same direction as a wheel spinning forwards.
True, but when you remove the pedals from the inboard side you are actually screwing them in, thus the confusion.

I describe the action similarly as the pedal spindles install in the pedaling direction, and English bb's do the opposite.

Usually the difficulty lies in poor leverage and body-mechanics.
On my Keo's, obviously the right one is more difficult due to the chainrings being in the way.
First i stand/kneel at the rear of the bike with with my left hip near the rear wheel and facing the front of the bike, my left arm can reach the left pedal.
I rotate the right pedal close to the floor and while holding the opposite crank at it's high point, i put the wrench in as close to parallel to the ground and facing rearward.
From there you just push down on the wrench. You can do this on either side and hold the opposite arm near the seat-tube for a brace.
Alternately take the wrench and install it so bb spindle, arm, wrench and front axle are all in a line, ie. the wrench handle and crankarm should be pointing to the front.
For the right side, stand/kneel on that side and face the rear of the bike with your right hip near the fork.
Grab the wrench with your right hand and the pedal with your left.
Push down on the pedal and pull up on the wrench, should be really easy.
These are also very safe methods that are easily reversible and eliminate the need to remember which side is threaded how...
No broken knuckles or parts!
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