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  1. #1
    epl
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    compact crank to standard

    If I change to a standard crankset do I have to get a new chain or will the one I have fit?

  2. #2
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by epl View Post
    If I change to a standard crankset do I have to get a new chain or will the one I have fit?
    With larger rings you will likely need a longer chain.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Depends.

    Chains can only be adjusted in 1 inch increments. If your chain is on the longish side with the 50 tooth compact crank, it may still be OK with a 53 tooth chainring. If it's on the short side you'll definitely have to add an inch (2 links) of chain.

    The smart thing to do is to gingerly try to shift into the big/big gear combination. If it shifts in and out with little effort you're good-to-go. If you feel like you have to force it into that gear combination, you need a new longer chain.

  4. #4
    slower than you Applehead57's Avatar
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    You probably do want a new chain, assuming yours is well used.

    If it's in good shape, you could always add a masterlink or two to gain the necessary length.
    Your chain will be just fine with more than one masterlink.
    "Lack of opportunity does not constitute virtue". Diana Tickle.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Applehead57 View Post
    If it's in good shape, you could always add a masterlink or two to gain the necessary length.
    So how does that work? A masterlink replaces a wide link. To add more than 1 you first have to remove another wide link from the chain.

  6. #6
    aka Phil Jungels Wanderer's Avatar
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    How much bigger are you going on the big ring? If the same, no problem.

  7. #7
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
    How much bigger are you going on the big ring? If the same, no problem.

    Great point, keep the large ring the same size, and you are golden.

  8. #8
    epl
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    good info. I will see if I can't mess this up. Thank you.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    You might have to move the FDER up a bit.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
    So how does that work? A masterlink replaces a wide link. To add more than 1 you first have to remove another wide link from the chain.
    What the heck is a "wide link". I know now, you mean outer plates. You should NEVER put several master links (outer plates) next to one another on a chain and of course you need the inner plates and rollers to go with it, to make one inch of chain.

    With modern flush-pin chains there really is no good way to add one inch of chain.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    You might have to move the FDER up a bit.
    If he's going from a 50 to a 52 or 53, and the current FD isn't mounted way too high, he will have to move the FD up. In the one standard to compact swap I did, I was surprised at the significant diameter difference between a 50T ring and a 53T ring.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
    If he's going from a 50 to a 52 or 53, and the current FD isn't mounted way too high, he will have to move the FD up. In the one standard to compact swap I did, I was surprised at the significant diameter difference between a 50T ring and a 53T ring.
    A little calculation will show that it's 2mm per tooth.

  13. #13
    Enock
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    If you saved the extra links from the chain that the bike has on now then just buy two snap off pins for the chain (make sure you buy regular for shimano or sram and extra thin for campy) and add two more links other wise you may need a new chain. The chain will be sized right if when the bike is in the smallest cog in the back and the largest in the front the derailer is pointing straight down, this is always the best way to size a chain and see if it is the right length.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by enock111 View Post
    ....The chain will be sized right if when the bike is in the smallest cog in the back and the largest in the front the derailer is pointing straight down, this is always the best way to size a chain and see if it is the right length.
    WHERE do people come up with this garbage.
    The on;y "safe" way is to go BIG:BIG to make sure you don't bend/break parts in case you inadvertently shift to that combination.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    WHERE do people come up with this garbage.
    The on;y "safe" way is to go BIG:BIG to make sure you don't bend/break parts in case you inadvertently shift to that combination.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
    Actually, using the length that produces the minimum tension in the little/little insures the maximum wrap capacity for any RD. The big/big will not suggest the longest possible length unless the largest cog also corresponds with the maximum wrap capacity. If you set the chain length with a 12-23 cassette and then switch to a 12-27, the chain will be 1 inch too short. The little/little would provide a length that works with either one.

    If you've got a setup that exceeds the RD's wrap capacity, the big/big insures that nothing will be damaged, but the chain might hang loose in several of the smallest cogs. The big/big method can also match up ends that can't be joined. In that case, add 1/2 inch, so the ends will mate properly. The user needs to decide if he can avoid the big/big or if the smaller combos not being useable is preferred.

    The big ring little cog combo has the problem that one length may have the cage angling back a little and one inch shorter will have it angling forward. That's how my bike works, so the little/little is the better indicator. In my case, the longer length tensions the chain and provides maximum wrap capacity.

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