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  1. #1
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    removing the steering bearing cups

    in the process of stripping my "super mistral" and most of the paint is off.
    whats the easiest / best way to remove the bearing cups for the headset?
    i was thinking about a socket on the end of a bar and tapping them out?

  2. #2
    You Know!? For Kids! jsharr's Avatar
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    I have never done it, but I have heard of people taking a length of pipe and slitting one end into quarters and bending these outward at a slight angle to use as a cup driver.

    Here is a pictorial of another process

    http://bluecollarmtb.com/2007/03/06/...t-cup-remover/
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  3. #3
    Great State of Varmint Panthers007's Avatar
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    Nashbar has those for sale:

    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...t%3A%20Headset

    You will also need a tool, or make one, that can set the fork-crown race and upper.

    There are cheaper ones available. Look around.
    How do you keep an idiot in suspense?

  4. #4
    Bikaholic blamp28's Avatar
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    That could be made from a length of pipe for about $2
    Trek Fuel XC MTB, Giant OCR Road Bike, Rans Screamer - Tandem

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    motovation frankenmike's Avatar
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    We only charge 5 bucks to remove headset cups in the shop, might be worth considering having your shop do it. Easier than making your own tool, cheaper than buying a tool that will get used so infrequently.

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    Bikaholic blamp28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankenmike View Post
    we only charge 5 bucks to remove headset cups in the shop, might be worth considering having your shop do it. Easier than making your own tool, cheaper than buying a tool that will get used so infrequently.

    +1
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    Quote Originally Posted by nuovo_record View Post
    ..whats the easiest / best way to remove the bearing cups for the headset?
    There are tools, both home made and shop versions both based around the concept of a pipe with one end slitted and flared. Me, I've always used a rod (or even a wide bladed screwdriver) and just tapped them out. As long as one is careful to work oneself round instead of simply banging away at one spot(and can stand the extra minute or so it takes) it seems to work just fine.

  8. #8
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    This has been covered here once a week since Christmas. A search will provide you with pictures of a foot of copper pipe being quartered at the end and being used to remove them. A similar search for do it yourself homemade headset presses will show you a $5 way to safely and securely put the cups back in too.

  9. #9
    Perineal Pressurized dobber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankenmike View Post
    We only charge 5 bucks to remove headset cups in the shop, might be worth considering having your shop do it. Easier than making your own tool, cheaper than buying a tool that will get used so infrequently.
    That only works when you've got an local shop. I sure as heck ain't drive 40-50 miles to get a headset knocked out.

  10. #10
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    I tried making a "rocket tool" out of PVC pipe, slitting the end and flaring it after soaking it in hot water. It worked great for one headset and failed totally with another.

    I've used the big screwdriver or long punch and hammer method too and it works but I'd be concerned using it on a carbon or thin wall Al frame. A minor slip could damage the headtube.

    A commercial headcup removal tool or a homemade one made of copper pipe are a good investment if you do headset r&r with any frequency or insist on using the correct tool or are working on a light, high-dollar frame. They aren't that expensive.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    I use a piece of 1/2" copper pipe as a punch, but I only work on steel bikes.

  12. #12
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    thanks for the replies.
    my LBS is about 10 miles away and a pain in the butt in the car....i'll try the long screwdriver and gentle tapping method and as it's a steel frame it should be able to withstand an inaccurate hit

  13. #13
    Large Member urodacus's Avatar
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    if you make a tool from 1 inch steel pipe, make six cuts (that's three passes with the hacksaw) rather than 4 cuts, as it doesn't flare so easily. ten-fifteen minutes of sawing and you've saved 20 bucks, and have a proper tool worth keeping. use a piece about 8-10 inches long so you can actually end up with some of it showing above the top of the headtube, BTW... enough to hold the tool while you use the hammer to tap the cup out. better measure first if you've got a tall bike.
    05 Giant TCR Composite; 83 Colnago Saronni: 81 San Rensho Katana Super Export track bike, #A116-56; 89 Zunow Pentaglia: SOLD; 85 Tommasini: SOLD; 83 Guerciotti: SOLD

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by urodacus View Post
    if you make a tool from 1 inch steel pipe, make six cuts (that's three passes with the hacksaw) rather than 4 cuts, as it doesn't flare so easily. ten-fifteen minutes of sawing and you've saved 20 bucks, and have a proper tool worth keeping. use a piece about 8-10 inches long so you can actually end up with some of it showing above the top of the headtube, BTW... enough to hold the tool while you use the hammer to tap the cup out. better measure first if you've got a tall bike.
    A refinement is to have the non-flared end threaded and add a screw-on pipe cap. That will protect the end from being mashed and battered by the hammer.

    A slip on cap can be used for a copper pipe based tool and, if you really want to be elegant, sweat solder it in place.

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