Installing Dura Ace 9sp group on old Schwinn?
Couple questions regarding the above subject header:
About the idea of installing a used Dura Ace 9sp group on an old Schwinn from the late 70's
Could be either my Schwinn Sprint (that has the "S" shaped seat tube) or an old Schwinn World (both have the old brake calipers that provide a lever when you ride the tops of the handlebar)
1 Will the Dura BB "fit" (be able to be installed) on the Schwinn.
2 Rear bracket width. (these bikes were classic 10spd's freehubs (5spd x 2) ) Will that rear fit a 9sp cassette? (or do I have to have the rear "stretched". (bikes are made of Steel/ChroMoly)
3 Is it "worth" it to make the upgrade?
Background: Neither bike carries any emotional attachment, but simply for use as another bike to ride in spirited group rides. (currently riding an ALum Lemond Reno with Tiagra/105 that I like)
what kind of BB do you have ? If it a 1 piece BB then no, if it a 3 piece then yes. 2. yes you will have to spread the frame. ("stretched the rear"), you'll need to go from 126 MM (the old standard of your bike) to 135 MM (the new standard of today's bikes.). check out Sheldon Brown's Site (may GOD Rest his soul) on how to do this . 3 .no it not "worth it " to do this upgrade because the age of the bikes, only if you do have a emotional attachments to them.
1. probably - the existing bb probably has
2. No. Will have to be spread (cold - set) from the current width (probably 126mm) to the current road standard - 130mm. Then alignment of stays and dropouts must be confirmed to keep everythign straight.
3. Yes, as long as it is worth it to you, and the frame you choose to use fits you perfectly and has no damage. What type of quality are the old Schwinns you have? I looked up info on old schwinn models to see where yours fall in the lineup, but I could not immediately find anything. If they are old heavy straigh-guage steel frames then you might be better off searching classifieds and craigslist for something nice for your upgrade project.
4. (answer to a question not asked) It might be a better idea to put the Dura-Ace parts on the Lemond, and use the Tiagra/105 stuff on the Schwinn.
Also, what size wheels do the Schwinns use? If they are designed around 27" wheels, and you intend to use 700C you will likely need some extra-long-reach brake calipers. This could make the bike into a super-sweet all weather bike that can accomodate wider tires and fenders.
As for the brake levers you mentioned, generally Dura-Ace parts use a Shimano STI brifter which would necessetate the removal of the old brake levers. Generally (IMO) the newer levers are much better than the old ones.
Older than dirt
Originally Posted by LarDasse74
If he has 4mm of downward movement in the pad slots, that's all that's needed. 27" and 700c are only 8mm in diameter different.
You can "squeeze" a 130mm into a 126mm without cold setting. I did it on my series paramount no problem, and then if I ever want to go back to the original component It won't be an issue, right now it is just a little more difficult to get the rear wheel on and off.
Originally Posted by LarDasse74
I only decided to do this after reading Sheldon Brown's article on frame spacing where he said it shouldn't be a problem going up one size without cold setting. Apparently it is safe to go up one size without cold setting (126mm to 130mm) but if you were to go up two sizes (126mm to 135mm) you would be forced to cold set it.
Just checked. The "S" shaped Sprint is a single piece BB so that is out. (that bike supposedly has a small "collectors" value to it because of the unique "S" seat tube shape)
The World has a 3 pc crank.
But from the comments, it doesn't seem like a great idea.
BTW LardAsse - I did contemplate the "swap" of the components on the LeMond but that is a triple and everything "seems" to run fine even though they are lesser components (Tiagra) compared to what people here prefer to ride (Dura/Ultegra)
It seems the only reason to do this would be for the benefits of an "all weather" bike that could accommodate wider tires since their is nothing extraordinary about the fit.
Thanx everyone for your input
Ok, this may be OBE, but for the record, if the bike is an old 10 speed, rear spacing is probably 120MM not 126mm. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html. And for the record, an old-heavy Schwinn 10-speed restored to its original grandeur is way cooler than an old heavy Schwinn frame with new components attached (IMHO).
Yea, I missed where he said it was a 10-speed, I just saw someone mention stretching 126 to 130 and assumed that we knew it was 126.