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Stripped clamp nut on Deore shifter. Now what?

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Stripped clamp nut on Deore shifter. Now what?

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Old 02-17-09, 01:39 AM
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Stripped clamp nut on Deore shifter. Now what?

I was tightening a Deore shifter to my handlebar and the bolt was able to strip out the threads from the mounting nut. The bolt itself has all its threads intact. The nut looks like it's buried in a plastic enclosure so it's not easily accessible. Anybody else have this issue? How did you solve it?

My first idea was to put a big glob of loctite (I had the blue kind on hand) in the nut where the threads used to be, wait for it to gel, and then try to tighten the bolt into the glob and hope it would hold. Well, that didn't really work.

Next idea is to maybe just put a longer bolt that extends past the nut, and put a nut on the other side. Problem is, there isn't much space for that new nut.

Anyway, I'd like to hear some ideas...
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Old 02-17-09, 12:24 PM
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I tried another glob of blue loctite. Didn't work. Help?
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Old 02-17-09, 12:43 PM
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Remove nut/washer/bolt/whatever. Go to hardware store and try to match it. It's Shimano? Good luck. Fail? Go to LBS(s) with above. See if they have some in a drawer/box/jar.

I removed Shimano Deore shifters and replaced same with SRAM Attack shifters. Due to poor design, I had had enough. SRAM Attack blows Shimano Deore out of the oil-spill. Much better.
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Old 02-17-09, 12:45 PM
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Helicoil.

-R
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Old 02-17-09, 03:50 PM
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Can the bolt be any larger? If so, then buy a bigger bolt and a tap to match. Tap out the hole in the nut and install the bigger bolt.

If it can't be larger, then as suggested above, helicoil.
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Old 02-17-09, 06:32 PM
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I've never tried retapping a stripped hole before, but I do have some larger bolts I could use for that. Where can I get a cheap tap and die kit (Wal Mart maybe?)

Last edited by kmart; 02-17-09 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 02-17-09, 07:26 PM
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Do you have pictures?

Is there actually a nut pressed into a hole, or are the threads cut directly into the clamp?
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Old 02-17-09, 11:23 PM
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I have a pair of Shimano Deore shifter here. These are 9-spd ones. The ring that secures then to the handlebar appears to be a light alloy. The bolts screw directly into a threaded portion of this alloy. No nuts/washers/etc. Straight into a block of metal.

If that is stripped-out, chock up another Shimano design idiocy. They made their bolt stronger than the block it screws into. Did I mention I changed to SRAM......? LOL
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Old 02-17-09, 11:34 PM
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Far be it for me to defend Shimano, but given the fairly modest torque needed to secure that bolt, I do not think it is inappropriate to thread the bolt into aluminum.

Back to helping the OP though: on your shifters does it look like a longer bolt could be used with a nut on the far side? Helicoil seems like overkill here. Even tapping it might be a pain.

jim

Originally Posted by Panthers007
I have a pair of Shimano Deore shifter here. These are 9-spd ones. The ring that secures then to the handlebar appears to be a light alloy. The bolts screw directly into a threaded portion of this alloy. No nuts/washers/etc. Straight into a block of metal.

If that is stripped-out, chock up another Shimano design idiocy. They made their bolt stronger than the block it screws into. Did I mention I changed to SRAM......? LOL
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Old 02-17-09, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jgedwa
Far be it for me to defend Shimano, but given the fairly modest torque needed to secure that bolt, I do not think it is inappropriate to thread the bolt into aluminum.

jim
I just installed a Hollowtech II Ultegra crankset on my bike here. Looking at the instructions, the attorney wanted me to torque (torque-wrench with measurement, used a Park beam one) the 2 x 5mm hex-bolts, slowly and evenly, to between 120 ip and 132 ip (inch-pounds). Got up to 125ip on one side - and the alloy bolt began to show signs of stripping on it's head.

You were saying? This IS Shimano, you know.
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