72? Dolphin 250 Z, No name mountain bike built from the ground up with xtr, xt, and LX components
tried to search and came up with nothing useful. Which probably means I'm inept at searching. Any whoo, I'm very frustrated with my rear wheel. To start I built my bike about 6 years ago. I laced the wheels and all. They were my first set to lace from scratch. I was impressed that the rear lasted my 6 years before I had to replace it due to a flat spot. I replaced both front and rear with matching ambrosio nojo rims I was able to get a super deal on. With in 5 miles of riding I have a flat spot and the pinned seam has expanded considerably. I used the same spokes and nipples for the second time building these wheels. Would that have anything to do with my troubles? Since I've built the wheel I've heard you should replace your spokes and nipples every time you build a new wheel. Is this true?
Any suggestions for a good rear wheel for a hard tail mountain bike with rim brakes?
..I replaced both front and rear with matching ambrosio nojo rims .. With in 5 miles of riding I have a flat spot and the pinned seam has expanded considerably. I used the same spokes and nipples for the second time building these wheels. Would that have anything to do with my troubles?
Premature spoke breakage and wind-up are the kind of issues that could come from reusing old spokes + nipples. Expanding seam might be influenced by lacing pattern. Flat spot is either manufacturing defect, pothole impact or excessive spoke tension.
Originally Posted by mr. dolphin
..Since I've built the wheel I've heard you should replace your spokes and nipples every time you build a new wheel. Is this true?
Not really, or possibly for a given value of "true".
Nipples are usually replaced 'cause they are cheap and new ones spin on so much nicer.
New spokes also makes the build more pleasant and if you're trying to be rational the fastest way to get the old ones out is to cut them out of the wheel.
If speed of assembly isn't a big issue spokes are often replaced because for a rear wheel it's hard to know how much life they have left in them and considering the build time new ones (usually) doesn't seem that expensive.
Another HUGE reason for replacing spokes is that unless replacing a rim with a new one of the same make & model, few people take the time to track down a replacement rim with the same ERD.
Originally Posted by mr. dolphin
..Any suggestions for a good rear wheel for a hard tail mountain bike with rim brakes?
My current favourites are Mavic Ceramic and Ritchey Girder.
Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
the rule of thumb here is to replace your spokes with new ones when you rebuild your wheel because the spokes become worn over time from use, and they may not seat right in the hub. if it was me I would use 2 mm gouges spokes which would be stronger to take the beating from hard tailing.
Spokes aren't that expensive, why not get new ones?
Unless you just want to practice wheelbuilding, and if you don't intend to ride on these wheels.
um, count again? If he got a smokin deal on the rims, then spokes would probably cost more then he paid for the rims.
figure 2x36 spokes and a $1 a spoke from an lbs so thats $70 before tax. You can get em cheaper online, but then they are selling them in packs of 20 or 50 and none of those work out to 36 very well, plus you will prob need diff lengths for the front wheels and for the drive/non drive side on the back. So 2 20 packs plus a 50 or 2 more 20's for the front... so $35 for the 50, $15 each for the 20's, plus $10 shipping and your at $75 for little metal wires. ramble ramble...
I say spokes are the hidden cost in wheel building and I would reuse if possible, replace the one or 2 that are in bad shape.
In the most common configuration, SS spoke against aluminum hub flanges it's no contest - I've never seen a spoke worn at the elbow. At the outer cross - sure, but never at the elbow. They may fatigue, but there's no way of identifying that with the naked eye.
Originally Posted by bikeman715
... if it was me I would use 2 mm gouges spokes which would be stronger to take the beating from hard tailing.
That is a very questionable piece of advice.
Thicker spokes may offer some protection against tacoing, at the increased risk of cracking the rim. Thinner spokes OTOH offer better durability for everyday riding.