Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Clear coat

  1. #1
    Senior Member kalifornsky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    AK/IL for a smidge
    My Bikes
    1983 Schwinn Paramount, 2006 Cannondale Six13 Pro, 1987 Schwinn Voyageur 1986 Fuji Regis, SSR Fixed Gear
    Posts
    189
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Clear coat

    Any recommendation for a strong clear coat? I rattle canned a frame (primer, color, and clear coat, multiple layers of each, occasional wet sanding, let cure for a week before building up) and the lock is rubbing some paint off. Thanks! (I have access to an indoor airbrush if that is an option)

  2. #2
    me have long head tube TallRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Chapel Hill, NC
    Posts
    4,088
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I don't know too much about painting bikes, but I do know that you want a clear-coat to be the same type of paint (enamel, latex, etc.) as the main color coat. So check the paint type of your rattle-can.

  3. #3
    Crazy ole cat lady
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Portland, OR
    My Bikes
    One built up on a Nashbar frame, one built up from a Paramount frame
    Posts
    134
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I recently had a frame powder coated. Does it matter what sort of clear coat I put on it?

    I want to apply some vinyl lettering and stripes then put a protective coat over the top.

    Thanks for the information.

  4. #4
    Older than dirt CCrew's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Winchester, VA
    My Bikes
    Too darn many.. latest count is 11
    Posts
    5,345
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by MadMabel View Post
    I recently had a frame powder coated. Does it matter what sort of clear coat I put on it?

    I want to apply some vinyl lettering and stripes then put a protective coat over the top.

    Thanks for the information.

    You'll want to use a urethane clear, as the thinner in a lacquer based paint will blister the vinyl and/or melt the adhesive

  5. #5
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    St Peters, Missouri
    My Bikes
    Rans Enduro Sport, Hase Kettweisel Tandem, Merin Bear Valley beater bike
    Posts
    23,105
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    A week isn't a real long cure time for a rattle can paint job. I've got a frame that I painted 3 weeks ago still waiting for a final wax and build in my shop.

    Did you strip off all of the old paint before you started?

  6. #6
    Senior Member kalifornsky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    AK/IL for a smidge
    My Bikes
    1983 Schwinn Paramount, 2006 Cannondale Six13 Pro, 1987 Schwinn Voyageur 1986 Fuji Regis, SSR Fixed Gear
    Posts
    189
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes, i sand blasted then palm sanded the frame (it is steel). Looking back at my calendar, it definately cured for longer than a week before I put it together (more like a month!), with primer, paint, and clear coat.

    What wax are you using? Is it more for shine or pro protection? How are you applying it? I ran to lowes and picked up a clear enamal and airbrushed it on with sanding in between and the frame is sitting waiting around.

  7. #7
    Crazy ole cat lady
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Portland, OR
    My Bikes
    One built up on a Nashbar frame, one built up from a Paramount frame
    Posts
    134
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for the information!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •