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  1. #1
    KDB
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    buying replacement cones

    This is for the rear wheels.

    I have two older wheel sets where I think replacing the cones and bearings would bring them back to useful life. The hubs seem okay (no signs of pitting), but the cones on the drive side of both show some scoring.

    The hubs on both sets are no name (at least not that I can find). I am sure if this helps, but the rims on one set are Alex AL-VP20F. The other set are Weinnman 519.

    I am not sure what cones to purchase. How do I figure what I need?

    Thanks,
    KDB
    Quotes I Like:
    By convention, indicators should have pattern coefficients (factor loadings) of .7 or higher on their latent factors.
    Statnotes from NCSC

  2. #2
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    Go to the oldest local bike shop. Take the good cone from the non drive side and the axle, and have them find a matching cone from their massive junk box. Buy some new bearings and a tube of Phil Wood grease and clean everthing really well, before reassebly. The hub should have just the slightest hint of play, as the pressure of the quick release will reduce the play

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Go to:
    http://wheelsmfg.com/
    The company has online, dimensioned, images of the cones they make. Their cones are very good quality and their technical support is helpful.

  4. #4
    KDB
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    Sounds like a good plan.
    Quotes I Like:
    By convention, indicators should have pattern coefficients (factor loadings) of .7 or higher on their latent factors.
    Statnotes from NCSC

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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  6. #6
    meb
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    I had a single occasion where the drive sides pitted but the non-drive sides didn't. Otherwise I've always had both rears pitted.
    Is wear of the drive side before the non-drive side common?
    If so is that due an extra strain from the chain pull?

  7. #7
    Mechanic/Tourist
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    Replacement cones do not have to be an exact match, but there are critical dimensions, as follows:
    1. Threads must be the same of course.
    2. The OD of the cylindrical part must be slightly less than the ID of the dust cap.
    3. Measure the diameter at the circle where the bearings ran with a caliper. That same diameter should fall somewhere on the cone area of the replacement, the closer to the center the better.
    4. The distance from the line where the bearings will run on the cone to the wrench flats must be at least as large as the original, so that you can adjust the bearings once mounted.

    In desperate times you can do such things as grind out the dust cap to a larger ID, peen out a dust cap that is too small in OD, eliminate a spacer when a cone is too long, etc.

  8. #8
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    Any good wheel bearing grease from the auto store will work fine for our uses.

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